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Spark but no fuel to cylinders

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    #1

    Spark but no fuel to cylinders

    Good afternoon!
    Here to see if somebody has any suggestions. I have fuel going to the fuel bowls but doesnt go any farther. If I put gas directly into the cylinder I can get it to fire but wont stay running. The carbs have been cleaned and rebuilt. The bike has air filter pods (came that way) so I went the next size bigger with the main jet and the pilot jet. The fuel needle is st at 1 turn out and the air needle is set at two turns out. Not sure what I did wrong that I cant get fuel to the cylinders. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!

    Kevin
    Tags: rusty spark advance
    #2
    Gonna need more information Chief. What bike model? How did you clean and rebuild? Have you run electrical checks? What pods? If theyre not K&N, APE, or UNI foamies, I wouldnt bother tuning it to run until you install one of those.
    1982 GS850GL - Shaved seat foam and new seat cover; Daytona handlebars and Tusk risers; Puig "Naked" Windscreen\
    1978 KZ200 - Mostly original, hydraulic front brake swap, superbike bars; purchased at 7k original miles
    Track bike project: 2008 Hyosung frame w/ 97 gs500E engine swap (in progress)

    Comment

      #3
      Yep, I'm gonna have to agree, we need a LOT more information

      What bike? What YEAR? Different carbs came on different models and years, we need to know.
      Since you are talking about fuel needle and air needle, I am guessing that it is a four-cylinder, '79 or older.

      How did you "clean" the carbs? If you have fuel in the bowls, it's sorta obvious that the petcock is working and the float valves are working, but it's also obvious that the tiny little passages in the carb bodies between the jets are blocked. You need to follow the proper procedure to clean, but we need to know which carbs you have (determined by model and year) to know which procedure to suggest.

      Jetting. You WILL need to change jetting, but the pilot jet is not necessary. How much the main and needle need to change will depend on which pods you run and whether you also have a 4-into-1 pipe on it and what it has for a baffle.

      Last suggestion: add a signature that mentions your bike so you don't have to remember it every time you ask a question.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment

        #4
        Thank you guys for the help! The bike is a 1979 Suzuki gs750 the precious owner did a bunch of modifications to the bike

        The tank is from a yamaha as are the gauges.. the exhaust is 4 into 2 with harley mufflers. Working on this bike is an adventure. I did discover today that the spark advance is rusted tight. Putting a good one on tonight and setting the points gap and timing.USER_SCOPED_TEMP_DATA_orca-image--1266859122.jpg
        .I will keep ya all posted. Btw I do have fuel coming to the cylinders now

        Comment

          #5
          Ok so I got the ignition back together
          Set the points but cant get the timing set. I turn the crank to where the points just get power to spark. That spot should be on the F mark on the 1 and 4 cylinder points. Unfortunately there is power there but when I got to turn the points plate the points stay powered the whole time
          Bad points? Maybe something simple I am not seeing. I went by how the manual says to set points but I cant get them set. Any suggestions?

          Comment

            #6
            Ok so I got the ignition back together
            Set the points but cant get the timing set. I turn the crank to where the points just get power to spark. That spot should be on the F mark on the 1 and 4 cylinder points. Unfortunately there is power there but when I got to turn the points plate the points stay powered the whole time
            Bad points? Maybe something simple I am not seeing. I went by how the manual says to set points but I cant get them set. Any suggestions?

            Comment

              #7
              That last post I put on was a little confusing What I am trying to saw is that the points open too soon. There is not enough adjustment on the points plate to adjust it.. now I'm lost.

              Comment

                #8
                That last post I put on was a little confusing
                What I am trying to saw is that the points open too soon. There is not enough adjustment on the points plate to adjust it.. now I'm lost.

                Comment

                  #9
                  I get the impression that you are not fully understanding how the points work.

                  One side of the points will ALWAYS have power when the key is ON. That is normal. Power comes from the battery (and voltage regulator when it's running), through the coils, down to the points. When the points are closed, current flows through the coils, magnetizing the core. When the points open, the current stops, the magnetic field collapses (causing a voltage spike), the transformer built into the coils raises that spike to several thousand volts to fire the plugs.

                  It has been a long time since I have had to adjust points, but you will need to rotate the points cam to get the highest point, then adjust your gap to specification. Do that for both sets of points, then rotate the crank to the 1-4 F mark and rotate the points mounting plate so the points just start to open at that point. You can see this easily with a test light. Just connect a light across the points, one lead on the hot side, the other on the ground side. When the light is OFF, the points are closed. When the points open, the light will be ON.

                  .
                  sigpic
                  mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                  hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                  #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                  #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                  Family Portrait
                  Siblings and Spouses
                  Mom's first ride
                  Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                  (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Thank you Steve that helps alot. The problem is when I set the crank to where the points just start to open the points are opening too soon. There is not enough adjustment on the points plate to get the light to go out.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Set the timing plate so screw is in middle of the slot and snug it up. Turn 1-4 F mark to indicator in the case. Put your jumper light on...one alligator clip to the point spring and the other to the engine block. Loosen 1-4 points and slowly open them till the light just starts to flicker. Set the points gap. Turn crank and line up the 2-3 F mark and repeat the process as in 1-4. Points are now static timed. Start bike and finish with timing light,,,do 1-4 first and lock down the plate. Now loosen the 2-3 subplate and adjust 2-3 with timing light.
                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        To make an indicator light take a turn signal bulb and put the end of a wire on the bottom contact and another wire to the bulb body. two alligator clips and youve got an indicator light. Be sure the advancer is returning fully to so the lobe is in the right spot too.
                        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Thank you Chuck! That made all the difference. Going to try get it started today. I appreciate your help!

                          Comment

                            #14
                            I got it running! Thank you all for the help. Even took it out for a short ride and it went great. What a great feeling of accomplishment. You all be safe.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              So are you gonna keep us in suspense??? What was the problem?
                              MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                              1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                              NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                              I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                              Comment

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