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Pilot screw turns: the saga continues

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    #16
    I like it BIG! Paragraph key?? You mean return? They’re over rated

    ...and I thought maybe someone had a reply
    1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
    We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

    Comment


      #17
      Let's see

      No mention of proper dipping of the carb bodies or new O rings

      How many times are you going to short cut the process?
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by EDGECRUSHER View Post
        I like it BIG! Paragraph key?? You mean return? They’re over rated

        ...and I thought maybe someone had a reply
        We don't do rapping here. Or word wrapping.
        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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          #19
          Originally posted by Big T View Post
          Let's see

          No mention of proper dipping of the carb bodies or new O rings

          How many times are you going to short cut the process?

          yes that’s all been done. You can eat off my carbs. Nothing is dirty blocked. As i said in another thread all the basics are covered. Valves, vacuum line, carb boot seals. This is a jetting issue. And definitely a carb issue
          1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
          We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

          Comment


            #20
            I’m trying to re-read everything I can on setting CVs up and another thing ive been resistant to is tuning for full throttle first. If the main is important for every stage then I’ll need to do that. It’s just counter intuitive for me to start up a bike that will die without choke or a lot of idle screw and wail on it down the road.
            here in Michigan it’s been snowing one minute and sun shining the next. Not fun times to be tuning a bike on the road... maybe this weekend.
            I’m just surprised no one has insisted I tune for the main before worrying about idle.
            1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
            We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

            Comment


              #21
              Well while playing with float heights I realized I have an odd ball float valve needle. I noticed because It required to have the tang bent extra deep evidenced by needing to grab a different screwdiver because my precision didn’t have enough girth to bend it the rest of the way.
              I compared it to the one next to it and the post had a different dimension. Slightly thinner and the top had a flat instead of being rounded off. There’s no springy-ness to it and the float tang made contact with the rim of the seat before I felt any resistance. Normally if you push down on the floats and let go quickly they’ll bounce but this one is flat. No boing.
              Either it’s the wrong needle or it’s just clapped out.

              so now the search for the best deal on needles and seats

              so now I’m looking for good
              1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
              We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

              Comment


                #22
                Btw I checked the fuel height on that carb and while it ran the level kept rising in my gage until it was at the top of the bowl
                1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
                We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Well you’re on to something there with the float needle.... a hanging idle is evidence of a lean condition, though.... any vacuum leaks?
                  It sounds like you have the idle circuit fairly well understood.
                  I didn’t read the whole thread, but assuming you checked the valves already. Did you bench sync the throttle plates? I usually do it by holding the rack up to a light and adjusting visually by the sliver of light under the plate.
                  7C3CC3F6-1148-4B22-B781-09E213849C39.jpg
                  Last edited by Tom R; 04-21-2020, 09:15 PM.
                  -1980 GS1100 LT
                  -1975 Honda cb750K
                  -1972 Honda cl175
                  - Currently presiding over a 1970 T500

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Another interesting observation i made is the floats measured different on either side. I guess I always figured they should be the same but maybe after getting taken apart a lot and handled they start to develop a lean.

                    Which side of bowl do your floats hang??!
                    1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
                    We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Four new oem valves on the way, and I still have new orings for them from cycleorings.com. A reason i didn’t want to disturb the old valve seats is they didn’t want to come out at all. Should be interesting trying to pry them out now.
                      1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
                      We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by EDGECRUSHER View Post
                        Another interesting observation i made is the floats measured different on either side. I guess I always figured they should be the same but maybe after getting taken apart a lot and handled they start to develop a lean.

                        Which side of bowl do your floats hang??!
                        When I rebuild a set of carbs, I always check both sides of the float and twist them until they are within 0.5mm of each other. In the case of mis-matched heights, the higher number is the one that will affect the fuel height. You have to think "upside down" on this. You adjust the float height while the carbs are upside down. What you are measuring is the distance from the carb body to the bottom of the float (when it's upright, in its normal position). Fuel will reach the float with the higher number first, and teh assembly will start rising. It's impossible within the constraints of the carb body and bowl, but in an extreme case, one float could be down far enough that it is just barely allowing the other float to get wet.


                        Originally posted by EDGECRUSHER View Post
                        Four new oem valves on the way, and I still have new orings for them from cycleorings.com. A reason i didn’t want to disturb the old valve seats is they didn’t want to come out at all. Should be interesting trying to pry them out now.
                        One common thing I find in a set of carbs is that the o-rings on the inlet valves are often cracked. They are also rigid enough to be mis-identified as plastic, and that is what is keeping them in place. With your new needles and seats, don't be afraid to get physical pulling them out.

                        Did your new needles and seats come with filters? If not, see if your old ones will fit.

                        .
                        sigpic
                        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                        Family Portrait
                        Siblings and Spouses
                        Mom's first ride
                        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I sprung for the 1-3day expedited shipping for an extra $6 which in todays world is about the same as paying and then saying, “ here, have an extra $6 for no reason.” So I don’t have them yet. Hopefully before the weekend though. I’m so excited to hear this thing idle. I almost had it last night. My floats are adjusted down an extra 1.5mm so the bad valves took a little longer to leak and I got excited for a moment as I saw 1500rpm on the horizon and it actually sounded smooth. But alas, it began sputtering and I had to turn the idle screw back in.

                          sure will be nice hearing an idle from this bike.

                          btw I hope everyone’s appreciating my use paragraphs since i got my hands slapped earlier.
                          1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
                          We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by EDGECRUSHER View Post

                            btw I hope everyone’s appreciating my use paragraphs since i got my hands slapped earlier.
                            I know I'm reading your threads more often
                            Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                            1981 GS550T - My First
                            1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                            2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                            Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                            Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                            and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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                              #29
                              This bike is on hold until I can get parts next week. Until then I’ve started my rebuild of my vintage 1978 Yamaha IT175 engine. It’s the second time I’ve done this one in the last twenty years but this time it needs the crank rebuilt which I’m learning to do myself. Unfortunately, I’m already to a point where I’m waiting on parts for it as well. What am I gonna do if I don’t have a bike to wrench on for four hours after work every day lol?
                              FE0F0756-62FB-48FE-851E-0726379FA218.jpg
                              1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
                              We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Got my valve seats replaced. Idled lowest it’s been for about ten minutes of tuning then suddenly it started stalling again. Took them out and cleaned out all the passages but no luck. It seems too rich again. Last thing I did was lower the floats and test rode it. Midrange is suffering now, popping and struggling. WOT is great. Idle is no good. Gonna bring floats up closer to 22.4. They’re at 24 now. Maybe 23.4 and clean carbs for the upteenth time. I’m starting to wonder if it’s not my igniter malfunctioning when it gets to a certain temp??
                                1983 GS750ES WITH UNI PODS, 4-1 KERKER
                                We can rebuild her. We have the technology.

                                Comment

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