Acceptable stator output???

[Brendan W]

Had two stators on the 850. One, possibly the original, gave ~75 V, the other, an aftermarket job, gave ~55V open cct. at 5000rpm
Both charged fine with an SH775 and SPG setup. Only got the second one because I thought the original was toast until I found somebody had used bullet connectors inside the generator casing and the wires had fried. The stator survived and was fine after a proper wiring job.
DSC_0043.jpg

[Suzukian]

When I rewired my Stator, I ran all three legs directly to the R/R and the +/- DC from the R/R directly to the battery (with a fuse on the positive side). I haven't had a problem in over 8 years. I used an Electrosports Stator,puts out 20% more power, and a R/R from a Kawasaki XD1100, it had huge cooling fins, and that I mounted where the useless tool tray was.

[chuck hahn]

Thanks for some actual numbers to look for....

[chuck hahn]

Suzukian... happen to know an approximate year on that Kawi KD1100

[Suzukian]

I'm pretty sure it was from the 1979 to '84 series Yamaha XS1100 Model. They were all the same. The R/R did not have leads coming off of it. If had three Male tabs for the plug wires from the Stator (which I wired directly, bypassing the harness), and two Male tabs on the side for the DC output (again, I bypassed the harness and hooked it directly to the battery with a fuse in series on the positive DC wire). I crimped connectors and just plugged everything in. Any 1100 will work. I'm pretty sure the one I have is made by Shindengen. It was really inexpensive. Less than $ 30 bucks. They are all over EBAY, and very inexpensive.

[chuck hahn]

OH an XS. Previous post said XD. Ill look one

EDIT.. Looks like the 2013 amd 2014 CB1100 ( and many other models as well ) used the same shindegrin unit except the number on it is as in the picture. I think i would give one a go..

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[Nessism]

Get an SH775 instead. It will protect your stator.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/185845488653

[chuck hahn]

Do you know that these FO numbered ones are different than the SH ones? If so please explain it for me as im treying to get my head wrapped around all the series amd shunt jargon ive heard about.

[Suzukian]

You could spend years ding so. Just get one and you will be fine. The arguments are theoretical, that's why both kinds are still made for the same purpose.

[Gorminrider]

Do you know that these FO numbered ones are different than the SH ones?

FH are "field effect" and commonly MOSFET (metal oxide field effect transistor) as opposed to SH which are SCR.("silicon controlled rectifiers" ) The MOSFET type are newer tech..it's matter of speed when they turn on and off, and thereby, without too much explanation, theoretically a cooler R/R.

Looks like the 2013 amd 2014 CB1100 ( and many other models as well ) used the same shindegrin unit except the number on it is as in the picture. I think i would give one a go..

FH can be "shunts" or "series" type R/R so you have to know the whole number and look it up. But lots of newer bikes use "FH..whatever" shunt R/Rs
As to slapping it in, likely work fine if
1) there's an appropriate number of wires coming out,
2)you can understand the wiring colour code where it's made for a different make of bike...consult the wiring diagram of the bike it's made for if you can
3) it'll fit in the space you have, with bolt-holes too
4) it's rated 25 amps or more (likely so!)

Nothing wrong with using three incandescent 110V 60W bulbs as indicative loads - they provide some reassurance the generator is working at least until that point.

That's pretty much what I'm saying -something simple that is obvious....and, you only need one bulb though two or three could be better. It's merely an idea that might help where only the usual simple tools are available...

As to diagnosis , it's obviously limited ..if ONE winding has failed, with an internal short TO ITSELF the bulb should be DIMMER across 2 legs. But it's not at all impossible for 2 windings to be touching each other and then, without a known-good stator to compare brightness with, "bright enough" is hard to know. Changes in brightness can also be hard to spot.

[Nessism]

To my knowledge, all the "FHXXX" units are shunt type. The series type SH775 look pretty much the same on the exterior. The FH R/R's are quality pieces, but they put your stator at more risk compared to the series type counterpart.

[salty_monk]

The lowest I've measured on a working stator is about 55. That worked but the idle voltage was never higher than about 12.8v and it would always charge at somewhere in the 13's, never got up to 14v

[Suzukian]

13.8 Volts is the ideal voltage at idle, I've read.