Starting issues

[rowlingleicastone]

Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum, new to working on bikes and the gs platform. I recently purchased a 1981 GS1100, I rode it home, it needed a jump but I was told it needed a new battery, the carbs needed to be synced, oil change, new chain. Nothing I wasn't expecting. I had parked it for 2 weeks and installed a new battery, the ignition would not do anything, no clicking or turning over of any kind, so I suspected the solenoid could be at fault, I replaced it and still no reaction. I'm not sure if the R/R could be at fault, or if there's a fault in the wiring somewhere, the instrument panel turns on with the battery attached. Not sure if it could be the ignition switch itself or something else I'm unaware of, any input or recommendations would be much appreciated! I would love to see this GS back on the road again, as it once was not too long ago. Thank you all!

[chuck hahn]

Try adding a ground wire from one of the selinoid mounting bolts to the battery. They often need a good ground

[chris]

Hi ,I would recommend reading the stator papers and newbie mistakes. Please keep us posted on your progress. Good luck

[Suzukian]

You could just jump the solenoid and see if the starter moves, with a good 12 source. If it spins over, you either have a bad starter solenoid, or a crappy battery, bad ground, you really need to check the whole system.

[salty_monk]

Is your new battery fully charged? Does the headlight come on when you turn the key?

[LAB3]

There's other, simpler things to go over before going into the charging system!

If the dash lights come on then check to see if the headlight comes on, if it does then the next thing to check would be the starter switch, the on/off "kill" switch then the clutch safety switch, all three of those need to be in working order for the solenoid (which you already replaced) to work.

One other thing to look at would be the wiring harness ground, there's a black wire with a ring on it that goes on one of the bolts that mount the voltage regulator. That wire grounds the plate the regulator and solenoid are mounted on, often times it gets moved to another bolt that mounts the airbox, it needs to go onto one of the bolts that go directly into the frame to get a good ground.

If all those check out the last possiblity is the key switch itself. In this case the dash lights come on so it's probably not that but still, if it's not allowing power to make it to the rest of the wiring harness then that would also cause the problems you're experiencing.

All of the above things I've mentioned can easily be checked with a simple test light, if you have a volt meter then all the better. My bet is that it's one of the switches and chances are they need the contacts cleaned up. Go over those first before worrying about the charging system or dumping money into parts you may not need!

[rowlingleicastone]

Sorry for the delay guys, but good news, the bike is running somewhat. I had a shop check out the initial issue I was having starting it, and it seems like it was a bad ground/contact issues. Since then I've had more work done to it. I plan on installing the stock exhaust system along with a rejet so it will perform better. As it is now, I've been riding it weekly, taking short rides. Just recently the battery started dying quickly, once it's jumped it turns over and idles no problem, but it doesn't seem like the battery is being charged. So after reading through the forum, I figured maybe my r/r needs to be replaced, I have all my parts for a SH775 mod. I just need to modify the wires to plug into my system. Will I have to replace the stator along with the r/r, or if it's charging good on the meter, should I just leave it be? Thanks everyone for your input

[rustyspoon]

Will I have to replace the stator along with the r/r, or if it's charging good on the meter, should I just leave it be? Thanks everyone for your input

If your issue was your R/R it likely that your stator has been cooked as well. But if you're doing the SH775 mod then you'll be eliminating the main stressor on the stator, being the R/R dumping excess current into the coils to be dissipated as heat. If replacing the R/R makes the charging system work, you could probably get away with keeping your old stator even if it's half-cooked. But I would suggest going through the Fault Finding Chart if you don't want to replace both stator and R/R.

[Suzukian]

That stator goes, you'll be buying another R/R. Get a "Electrosports' Stator, they put out 20% more voltage. Their R/R regulates all 3 legs of the Stator. Run the stator wires directly to the R/R/ and the +/- to the battery. This will eliminate about 6 feet or wiring from your harness, and fix all your charging issues. Search for member Nessism post on this, he'll tell you the best R/R to get. and the best way to set this up.