Sensor bypass/left switch bypass

[Eli Lawson]

I would like to know how I can bypass my left handlebar switch and also how to bypass my speedo and tach and all sensors related to those

[Brendan W]

Assuming you mean the starter cut out switch?
It's a normally open switch on the Yellow/Green wire from the starter push button to the starter relay coil.
Shorting the switch out leaves you normally closed.
Over here we don't have that switch but I always pull the clutch anyway. One day it will be in gear and it gives the starter less work to do.
What do you mean by bypassing the speedo and tacho and related sensors?

[Eli Lawson]

Sorry I'm new to this wiring thing. I'm talking about not having to use the speedometer tachometer and the cluster that is between the two on my 82 gs650e. I'm sure there is a way but I'm not understanding it. I just think the gauges look like total *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$. And I don't have a left handlebar switch only a clutch lever and perch or whatever it's called

[mustangflyr]

I did a modification on my own GS which allows the engine to be started in neutral without pulling the clutch in but it will not start in gear unless you have pulled the lever as normal. Just took some research, head scratching a relay and a diode.

[Brendan W]

Sorry I'm new to this wiring thing. I'm talking about not having to use the speedometer tachometer and the cluster that is between the two on my 82 gs650e. I'm sure there is a way but I'm not understanding it. I just think the gauges look like total *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$. And I don't have a left handlebar switch only a clutch lever and perch or whatever it's called

The speedo and tacho are mechanical, driven by cables from the front wheel hub and the camshaft. Alternatives are available. You can get a tacho that takes a pickup from the ignition. speedo would have to have the same gearing as the old. If memory serves it's 2.4 to 1`?
Alternative warning light clusters are available. There are no sensors as such. The neutral light and oil pressure warning are just bulbs that get grounded by a mechanical switch when in neutral or if the oil delivery is low. As things stand you could remove the gauges and cluster and the bike would still run but without oil pressure or neutral or signal warnings.
The lockout switch on the left has two wires, both should be Y/G, yellow with a green tracer. Joining them together takes the lockout switch out of the equation and the system behaves as if the clutch was pulled in all the time.
Here is a link to our library, you will find the wiring diagram towards the back of the service manual.

https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/