GS Rectifier/Regulator replace

[jdub6092]

My R/R is bad - diodes open both directions.

I was looking at the list of R/Rs on different bikes on this site. It showed the 05 Honda CBR1000RR as using the Shidegen SH775. It does have a ? next to the year though.

If it is that model, the Honda part number is 31600-MEL-013 which is easier to find than the OEM part number.
number. Ive also seen Polaris references, but searching is not leading to a purchasable part.
Wondering if anyone can confirm this cross reference or provide another way to get a hold of one of these units?
I still see this unit being recommended, but Im not seeing a lot of useful sources and dont really want test my luck on a used one

[jdub6092]

The Honda Cross reference is not correct. It is a different Shindengen part.

[Nessism]

I have a few SH775s for sale. Or, you can get them on ebay. Search for "710001103" and/or "4012941", toggle USED, then make sure the lettering SH775 is printed on the top fin. Triumph has a adapter harness that costs about $12.

I buy used ones, clean them up, test on my bike, then resell. I've never seen one that didn't work properly. Just make sure the connector tabs aren't broken, and look for a clean one.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Used SH775, if genuine, are typically fine. You’d have a hard time finding a report of a bad one. You do want to make sure it’s genuine, white lettering on the top fin. Pickins appear slim on eBay at the moment. Occasionally, member Nessism has some for sale that he’s tested.

Hah, Ed was already replying as I was typing.

[jdub6092]

Thanks Nessism for parting with one of your SH775 R/R units. I will get it tomorrow, but I got a harness for it today. Dang this is a hefty harness. Is this for a motorcycle or a semi-truck?
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Already know this is gonna be fun trying to squeeze this beast in.

[jdub6092]

Got the R/R today and it looks like this will just barely fit clearing the signal relay and just rubbing against the rear fender.
Just one question. That large heatsink area in the back does not appear to have a clean connection to the frame as the RR is painted where the screw head and washer makes contact and the heatsink butts up against the powder coated battery tray mounting tabs. Suzuki also made sure to locate it so that airflow over the fins is blocked.
While I don't expect more than a couple of amps, if that, to be flowing into the battery at any time, is there any need to try to dissipate some of the heat into the frame or will it stay relatively cool with its large area heatsink and since I'm not riding a Goldwing with fridge and 500w stereo?

After I get some longer mounting screws, I should be able to test it out.

[Nessism]

I doubt you will have any troubles, even if air isn't flowing over it. Convection will keep it plenty cool. Those R/Rs are very robust.

Repeating myself, but be sure to hook it up like this. And check for voltage loss due to the wiring on your bike. Worst thing you can do, is hook it up into the factory harness like the original R/R. That's bad! The wiring up to the hand control often overheats and melts the harness. No no no.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr

[jdub6092]

I doubt you will have any troubles, even if air isn't flowing over it. Convection will keep it plenty cool. Those R/Rs are very robust.

Nice to know.

Repeating myself, but be sure to hook it up like this. And check for voltage loss due to the wiring on your bike. Worst thing you can do, is hook it up into the factory harness like the original R/R. That's bad! The wiring up to the hand control often overheats and melts the harness. No, no, no

I do understand the issues with the stock unit only using two phases of the alternator with one going through the headlamp switch. That's a lot of wire resistance. I'll just heatshrink the ends of those two and tape together out of the way.
I plan on cutting the opposite ends of the SH775 harness and crimping on new bullet connectors to connect exactly as shown. The only difference is I will connect the extra ground to the battery holder frame like the old regulator. The other ground directly to battery Negative of course.

[jdub6092]

As has been typical, when I went to hook up the regulator, the negative terminal of my battery broke off.
A couple of days later, with a new battery terminal and bullet connectors, I finally got everything hooked up.
Fired her up and the voltage at the battery shot up from about 12.3 to 13.5 volts. Yay, battery is charging.
Looks like I'll lose a tool tray as it won't fit now, but small inconvenience not to get stranded 10 miles down the road.

[jdub6092]

After a 15 minute ride, the battery voltage jumped up to 12.97 volts and the R/R hardly broke a sweat. Only slightly warm to the touch.

[Nessism]

What is the voltage across the battery, with the engine reved up to 5000 rpm? It should be 14-14.5 VDC

[jdub6092]

What is the voltage across the battery, with the engine reved up to 5000 rpm? It should be 14-14.5 VDC

Voltage across battery at 5K = 14.3 VDC

[Nessism]

Voltage across battery at 5K = 14.3 VDC

Great job! That's right in the sweet spot!

[grcamna2]

Following this thread.
I think this is a very good quality Reg./Rect. compared to OEM on my early 80's Suzukis

[jdub6092]

Following this thread.
I think this is a very good quality Reg./Rect. compared to OEM on my early 80's Suzukis

Could have only been enhanced if there was a more compact version. The series design with auto disconnect already is a massive improvement over OEM.
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