1982 GS550L Ignitor & Signal Generator test?

[Guest]

Parts/Cost list for making a NEW CDI:
Copper Clad Board (will do 9 CDI's)....................$7.13
Capacitors<....................................... ..........<$2.00
Resistors<........................................ ...........<$1.00
Small Signal Transistors...................................$0.4 8
Final Output Darlingtons..................................$4.12
Diodes............................................ ............<$1.00

Total Cost to MAKE a NEW CDI Board...............<$9.39

If you can make them I'd be interested in buying some.

[teddux]

If you can make them I'd be interested in buying some.

I think I have you as "ignore", lol.
I guess I have to remove...
This message is hidden because chef1366 is on your ignore list.

[Guest]

I think I have you as "ignore", lol.
I guess I have to remove...
This message is hidden because chef1366 is on your ignore list.

How funny you would post that. I've been considering ignoring you for awhile now.

[teddux]

Repair that puppy within a DAY!
Under $20.00!
Sheesh!
PM

Actually, I think it's best just to make a new one as it seems everyone is afraid to take the old one to an oven @ 450 deg. F to remove encasing EPOXY.

Think!
Your soldering iron is around the 600 to 850 deg. F range.

Also note that the're mainly 3 different types of material being used today to seal electronics, the oven is for the epoxy encased units ONLY.

Just a thought.

[Suzuki_Don]

How funny you would post that. I've been considering ignoring you for awhile now.

I'm with you CHEF. Some people have nothing to contribute, no matter how much they talk.

[teddux]

I'm with you CHEF. Some people have nothing to contribute, no matter how much they talk.

You can BET your a*s an apology or NEVER!

[teddux]

Forget it, they want me GONE!
Envy is all I can say, my mistake? That will be revealed later on, you will see it first hand.

Try ebay.

[car99r]

Forget it, they want me GONE!
Envy is all I can say, my mistake? That will be revealed later on, you will see it first hand.

Try ebay.

Dude,

What part of these posts do you not see?

hhhmmm.... I just ordered the Dyna-S ignition so it looks liek I will probably be ordering the Dyna coils as well. I am pretty sure the ignitor is bad too anyway and even if not it sounds like this is a better way to go in the long run.

UGH!

Went ahead and spent the money and ordered the coils and new plug wires as well. Will have all new ignition and charging unit now...lmao

I can see why they want you gone. Half the stuff you say makes no sense even if you do know what you are talking about. Drop it already and go screw up someone else's thread.

[teddux]

Dude,

What part of these posts do you not see?





I can see why they want you gone. Half the stuff you say makes no sense even if you do know what you are talking about. Drop it already and go screw up someone else's thread.

Here, have a try:

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1184184#post1184184

[Steve314159]

New question here unrelated to the argument.

I am quite handy with the discrete transistor and resistor and have access to a large quantity of the items listed in the $20 bill of material. Is there some business opportunity here where I could make a simple circuit board and maybe sell 20 or 30 of them? What circuit are you talking about, and is there a schematic available.

[teddux]

New question here unrelated to the argument.

I am quite handy with the discrete transistor and resistor and have access to a large quantity of the items listed in the $20 bill of material. Is there some business opportunity here where I could make a simple circuit board and maybe sell 20 or 30 of them? What circuit are you talking about, and is there a schematic available.

Finally, someone who is serious.
I think I have made up my mind on giving it away here for free, thanks to the dead-beaters..
If anyone is interested in doing this for yourself, pm.

[car99r]

OK, well I hope everyone can skip all the BS on this thread and finsih giving me a hand here.

I installed the new Dyna Ignition and Dyan coils. Followed all instructions and everything seems good but I do have a couple questions as I am getting alot of sputtering but bike still not start. I think my carbs need some cleaning but want to make sure I have timing right and coils working properly before tearing the carbs out.

I am trying to follow these timing instructions from BassCliff's site.

Setting ignition

When wired, the ignition must be set. This can be done either statically with at test-lamp, or dynamically with an ignition gun.

First I did it statically.

Connect the test-lamp from the white wire to ground. (I had to make a test-wire ? the coil should be attached as well).

Turn the engine clockwise until the rightmost mark (full advance) for 1-4 is at mark.

Turn the advancer fully by hand.

You would expect the light to go on, exactly when the advancer is fully turned.

If not loosen the base plate and turn is slightly in the elongated holes.

If you are suspicious, check the black wire for 2-3 as well.

My questions,

I used my light tester and my white wire is hot all the time when key is on no matter where the motor is at??? I noticed when turning the motor the light would get brighter but even when I pulled the plug wire and grounded the plug it was firing all the time just better sometimes. Is this normal?

Also on the timing instructions above. I line the (1-4) mark up and then it says to turn the advnacer fully by hand. Not sure exactly what I am doing here? One full rotation?

Please help....lol

[car99r]

Also I noticed while hooking everything up. I have these two wires still hanging out? One is w/g and the other is w/r... Any idea where they are supposed to go? When I installed the regulator from Duaneage, I used the 3 wires coming from stator which were w/bl, y, w/o.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/car99r/Mobile%20Uploads/0403001742.jpg

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Those wires loop up to the (non-existent on my bike) headlight switch. The original design would cut out one leg of the stator if the headlight was turned off in order to keep the stator from burning up. Just tuck them in somewhere and leave them alone. They were left over in the wiring harness even though the later models had not headlight switch (headlight on all the time). You don't need the extra resistance in the circuit. I think I cover this in the Regulator/Rectifier Replacement guide on my website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[car99r]

Hi,

Those wires loop up to the (non-existent on my bike) headlight switch. The original design would cut out one leg of the stator if the headlight was turned off in order to keep the stator from burning up. Just tuck them in somewhere and leave them alone. They were left over in the wiring harness even though the later models had not headlight switch (headlight on all the time). You don't need the extra resistance in the circuit. I think I cover this in the Regulator/Rectifier Replacement guide on my website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Thanks!

Any thoughts on why I would be getting constant spark to all of the plugs? The spark is very mild until it gets to proper timing point then it lights up real good but I wouldn't think i should be getting anything until the timing point...