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    #16
    Originally posted by Matchless View Post
    Excellent - how is the bike running now?
    Well I just rebuilt mostly everything so I'm in the process of tuning it now. Ignition module was keeping me from getting to this point. Very upsetting. On the other hand, I think when I used to ride it two years ago, I was likely unknowingly working on just two cyclinders. I don't think I fried the module yesterday, and I don't think it died just by sitting outside for two years. So this is good news for me!

    It started up after a while and whirled into 4K RPM! Must be that great spark! Thank God for kill switches. I'll report back in when I'm done, hopefully post some pics.

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      #17
      I use one of those modules on my Ford Falcon (1962) with a 200i Mustang engine in it & those modules generate a LOT of heat (depending on the resistance of the coils).
      I use an MSD E core Coil which is a low resistance but with stock 3 ohm's I would think you will still get a decent amount of heat output....

      I would want to at least mount them on a 1/4" thick sheet of Aluminium or put a large computer heatsink on one side or something... that's just me though!

      Matchless - any thought on whether this could be modified to cope with the later electronic systems with electronic advance curve? Probably not at a guess... You'd have to retro fit a mechanical like you do for the Dyna S.

      Dan
      1980 GS1000G - Sold
      1978 GS1000E - Finished!
      1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
      1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
      2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
      1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
      2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

      www.parasiticsanalytics.com

      TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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        #18
        Here's the installed unit. Second module is mounted below the visible one.
        Works like a champ so far. Will put it through its paces as soon as the gas tank is done with treatment and my front brake master cylinder rebuild gets shipped


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          #19
          Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
          I use one of those modules on my Ford Falcon (1962) with a 200i Mustang engine in it & those modules generate a LOT of heat (depending on the resistance of the coils).
          I use an MSD E core Coil which is a low resistance but with stock 3 ohm's I would think you will still get a decent amount of heat output....

          I would want to at least mount them on a 1/4" thick sheet of Aluminium or put a large computer heatsink on one side or something... that's just me though!

          Matchless - any thought on whether this could be modified to cope with the later electronic systems with electronic advance curve? Probably not at a guess... You'd have to retro fit a mechanical like you do for the Dyna S.

          Dan
          Dan,
          Unfortunately this approach only works with the mechanical advance type ignitions. You are 100% correct on all your comments and leaving your ignition switched on without the motor running for a long time can also cause overheating.

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            #20
            Just wondering how the HEI modules are hoding up. I've got a pair coming on monday ... has your heat sink been sufficient thus far? And how did you deal with the diodes and resistor? I'm thinking about soldering them on a very small piece of perf board and shrink wrapping it all in line with the leads ... I'd be curious to know how you did it.

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              #21
              Originally posted by brad-450Lz View Post
              Just wondering how the HEI modules are hoding up. I've got a pair coming on monday ... has your heat sink been sufficient thus far? And how did you deal with the diodes and resistor? I'm thinking about soldering them on a very small piece of perf board and shrink wrapping it all in line with the leads ... I'd be curious to know how you did it.
              I made a small aluminium box and put one module on the base and one on the lid the components are just soldered securely. The box is then potted with epoxy making it watertight and secures all the components. Do not forget to use the heatsink paste that comes with the modules

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                #22
                So far so good with me. I simply soldered the leads of my resistors and diodes in parallel with about 75% of the leads overlapping. Slipped some heat shrink over them and bend the end leads with some pliers to tighten them down under the mounting nuts. I probably should have make a board and used a little project box, but this is holding up for me. No heat issues yet, but I haven't gone for some really long rides yet either.

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