Ignition?Ignitor?wiring...HELP!!!??

[TheCafeKid]

So, as some may know I have been working on an 82 1100E for Brett Griffin, and we've almost got her knocked out. I had a wiring issue, the coils werent getting juice, because the ignitor wasnt getting juice.

This is what we've done to prove the ignitor and coils worked:

We Jumped the harness altogether with a piece of wire leading from the O/W wire coming from the fuse block connector, to the O/W (INPUT) of the Ignitor. We got the coils to fire, so we know the ignitor is good, but the problem was somewhere in the harness.

Today Rose and I pulled and stripped the harness down. With my VOM I tested for a break from the connector at the starter/killswitch to the fuse block connector. Got roughly 2.5 ohms. Then i tested the switched wire on the kilswitch against the O/W input at the ignitor, AND at the splice where the ignitor feeds the coils. Got 2,5 ohms... Now, Im no electrical whizz by anymeans, but that seems to indicate to me that there is no break in these...so what gives??? ANyone have any ideas at all??

Im really confused. The bike has power everywhere else, except the starter button wont turn over the motor (even replaced the solenoid) and the coils arent getting power... The crimped bundle under the tank of all the O/W wires looks good...What am I missing here??

[posplayr]

2.5 ohms in the crimp and 3 ohm coils will give you
ONLY 55% OF THE VOLTAGE (this is assuming there is no resistance in the switches)

55%=3.0/(2.5+3.0)

with 12V that is only 16.5V

acid etch (Navel Jelly) the crimp and solder it.
acid etch (Navel Jelly) the ON switch and use dielectic grease

Else do a coil relay mod

[TheCafeKid]

2.5 ohms in the crimp and 3 ohm coils will give you
ONLY 55% OF THE VOLTAGE (this is assuming there is no resistance in the switches)

55%=3.0/(2.5+3.0)

with 12V that is only 16.5V

acid etch (Navel Jelly) the crimp and solder it.
acid etch (Navel Jelly) the ON switch and use dielectic grease

Else do a coil relay mod

Its actually about 1.9 ohms to be honest, I double checked my meter, and it was lying on itself a little bit.. But the problem isnt the amount of voltage to the coils, THEY ARENT GETTING ANY, there is something wrong somewhere else..

[posplayr]

Its actually about 1.9 ohms to be honest, I double checked my meter, and it was lying on itself a little bit.. But the problem isnt the amount of voltage to the coils, THEY ARENT GETTING ANY, there is something wrong somewhere else..

V = IR
I=V/R
R=V/I

[TheCafeKid]

V = IR
I=V/R
R=V/I

But like I said, when i jumped the harness, went from the fuse block to the ignitor, i had spark at the plugs..

[posplayr]

But like I said, when i jumped the harness, went from the fuse block to the ignitor, i had spark at the plugs..

In stock harness power comes from:

1.) R/R to =>Ignition switch
2.) Ignition switch to =>Fuse box
3.) Fusebox to =>start Switch
4.) start switch to =>O/W crimp at the split to the coils
5.) Crimp to => the ignitor

If you power the ignitor ( current running backward) and it goes to =>the coils power then the issue is upstream of the crimp.

Check connections between 1.) and 4.)

[TheCafeKid]

In stock harness power comes from:

1.) R/R to =>Ignition switch
2.) Ignition switch to =>Fuse box
3.) Fusebox to =>start Switch
4.) start switch to =>O/W crimp at the split to the coils
5.) Crimp to => the ignitor

If you power the ignitor ( current running backward) and it goes to =>the coils power then the issue is upstream of the crimp.

Check connections between 1.) and 4.)

THATS what I was looking for. I have power to EVERYTHING else, except the starter button, and the coils/ignitor..So with the help of Steve, I jumped the O/W switch power, to O/W (red tube) feed power at the connector for the kilswitch. And then I have continutiy from fuse block to switch connector, to coils to ignitor.. So, what gives??

[posplayr]

THATS what I was looking for. I have power to EVERYTHING else, except the starter button, and the coils/ignitor..So with the help of Steve, I jumped the O/W switch power, to O/W (red tube) feed power at the connector for the kilswitch. And then I have continutiy from fuse block to switch connector, to coils to ignitor.. So, what gives??

well clearly if you have to jump the kill switch then it is not getting power. Check 1.) through 3.)

[almarconi]

Today Rose and I pulled and stripped the harness down

If that isn't love then I don't know what love is

I've been with my wife for darn near 20yrs and she rarely will set foot in the garage much less strip a harness.

[TheCafeKid]

If that isn't love then I don't know what love is

I've been with my wife for darn near 20yrs and she rarely will set foot in the garage much less strip a harness.

You aint kiddin brother, I love her to death, and the fact that she actually ENJOYS spending time in the garage with me makes me feel as though i am one of the luckiest men on earth!

[almarconi]

You aint kiddin brother, I love her to death, and the fact that she actually ENJOYS spending time in the garage with me makes me feel as though i am one of the luckiest men on earth!

You haven't gotten married yet have you

[TheCafeKid]

You haven't gotten married yet have you

July, at the Red River Rally.. You comin??

[TheCafeKid]

OhhhhKAy.... So, Rose and I spent the afternoon going over this wiring harness. Stripped it completely bare, and went through EVERY SINGLE applicable wire to our problem. Nothing. All of them showed continutiy, (and after i figured out the battery in my VOM was dying, I was getting .9ohm instead of 2.3ish) After about 3 hours, both completely annoyed and flabergasted, because according to my trusty meter, IT SHOULD BE WORKING!!!, I called GSR member, and my favorite electrical guru, Steve. He and I spent about an hour and a half disecting the problem, OVER THE PHONE...thats talent right there. To know what I, being an electrical noob, was explaining over the phone, and be able to put it together in his head, to me, is astounding. If I cant see it in front of me, I cant really understand it. Just the way i learn.

So anyway, We found the problem...You ready for it Brett?? Are ya sitting down?? Wait for it.....wait forrrrr it...

You're trusty, shiney metal 83 700 killswitch is BUNK! The switch plate in the housing is worn out, and not passing power thru it in either position.. But, I may have a replacement....maybe..

Anyways, I just wanted to thank Rose for her undying patience, (and oh BTW Brett, you owe her a manicure for unwrapping and rewrapping your harness all pretty like ) and also Steve for his over the phone coaching..cause otherwise, i would have made a noose out that harness and hung myself with it!

[Guest]

Hind site is 20/20 but reading this thread I thought the Kill switch out right.

[TheCafeKid]

Hind site is 20/20 but reading this thread I thought the Kill switch upright.

Yeah, But, we used TWO different kill switches, and while obviously we see now, thinking that TWO of them were bad was just a bit of a stretch..

Im actually really glad we went through this though. I was always a bit chicken-chit of really digging into one of these harnesses, but now I see how they work, they really are quite simple.. Good learning experience for sure