Super stator !!!

[posplayr]

I just did the stator/starterclutch/rotor, etc on a GK last summer. On the surface, the GK has the big rotor of an 1100E, but the starter clutch from a smaller GS (same size as a 750, but the bolt holes are not lines up right) The stator itself is interchangeable...

I looked up the Parts Fiche and there were a bunch of different stator rotor combinations . The GK looks like could be different or maybe swap into a 1100E .

[posplayr]

Yes, the 850 R/R still got very hot quickly after fixing the connections.

I don't recall what the voltage drops were with 850 R/R......I suppose I should've written it down. I do know that it got waaaay to hot for my comfort level. So, knowing it wasn't going to work, we hooked up the Honda R/R and all was good.

EDIT:: I feel I need to re-enforce the point that the stator is most certainly an aftermarket one of unknown origin....NOT the original one.

OK well sounds like first R/R was bad and not external connections.
Was it a FET R/R?

[Larry D]

OK well sounds like first R/R was bad and not external connections.
Was it a FET R/R?

Nope, the first R/R was the stock one, I'm assuming, and fried.The dcv climbed to 16+ at the battery.

Here's my theory about the chain of events....PO decided he wanted to increase power for accessories for the touring GK, installs new super stator and fries the R/R. Now he is at a loss as to why the electrics are all screwed up. Sells bike. Just a guess on my part.

[posplayr]

Nope, the first R/R was the stock one, I'm assuming, and fried.The dcv climbed to 16+ at the battery.

Here's my theory about the chain of events....PO decided he wanted to increase power for accessories for the touring GK, installs new super stator and fries the R/R. Now he is at a loss as to why the electrics are all screwed up. Sells bike. Just a guess on my part.

Where did the "super stator" come from?

[Larry D]

Where did the "super stator" come from?

Not sure, it was in the bike when I bought it. At some point, I'll pull the cover and have a closer look. Since this issue is fixed, I have an upper shock mount to fix first.

Larry,

Although possible, it is also a common problem that the stock r/r burns out quickly for a number of reasons, including bad or aging connections (grounds, too).

The "replacement" r/r's suggested by many on here are used to overcome these problems.

A bad r/r can likely lead to the eventual failure of the stator if the connections aren't fixed and the r/r replaced.

Duaneage and some others have had good luck with the Honds r/r's. I am partial to the FET version, which seem to do a better job of performing at lower rpms (even idle after about 20 secs) and over the entire rpm range.

Hope this helps.

- JC

I would like to have a FET R/R. It seems difficult to find one for a reasonable price these days though. I've been searching ebay and the like for one. I found one from an ATV that would've worked fine, but, I forgot about the stupid auction and it expired. It sold for $18. The "new" Honda R/R is doing a great job, so, I'll go with it.

[posplayr]

Posplayr- remember that later models of the GK had a larger stock r/r. You can see the original next to the FH012aa in the previous post.

Hope this helps.

- JC

To get more power you need either:

1. bigger stator (for either more windings or more current capcity)
2. more powerful magnets in the rotor
3. a more efficent R/R (lower diode voltage drops like a FET).

So in 1984 1 or 2 was more likely

[Larry D]

Here's some more pics. Jim, I confirmed last night that the stator is putting out 31 vac at idle and 102 vac at 5000 rpm.

First a comparison of R/R's. Left to right--GK, 850, Honda.


The sticker on the Honda R/R.


New connectors on Honda R/R. 3 yellow stator wires, 2 Green grounds, 2 Red hot, 1 sense wire.


Here's a couple of the Honda R/R in place. It's not such a tight fit after all.




Connections ready to be wrapped. I still have to connect the sense wire. The 3 wires bundled on the left are the former wires for the stator connections that have been abandoned.


It all fits well with plenty of room behind the side cover.

[Larry D]

I forgot to ask.

I'm thinking of getting some type of gauge to monitor the health of my charging system, just to be able to keep an eye on it while I'm riding.

Any suggestions ??

[Steve]

Look to see if you have a place in the fairng that is somewhat protected from the weather.
This is what we are using on my wife's 850:


Available from Amazon for $27, an eBay vendor for $26, or California Sport Touring for $25.

NOTE: this unit is NOT waterproof, but its ability to shed water is greatly enhance by spraying a couple of coats of clear polyurethane over the display.

It's called a "5-in-1" meter, but the three functions that are on all the time (and shown in the picture above) are clock, voltage and air temperature.
All nice to see at a glance.

.

[Larry D]

Thanks Steve. I remember seeing this unit here, I was hoping it would be posted. I forgot it was your's.

Have you done any testing ? Does it seem like an accurate unit ?

I think that it would work perfectly for my needs.

[Steve]

Have you done any testing ? Does it seem like an accurate unit ?

Testing? Of course.

Time - seems to be accurate until it needs to be adjusted for Daylight Saving Time (and back).
Voltage - can be calibrated with an adjustment on the back. Once adjusted to a calibrated meter, it's within 0.1 volt at all times.
Temperature - well within a degree (but on a bike, ... who cares?).

My only 'complaints' about this unit are that it's not waterproof, so you need to address that issue, and the backlight. As mentioned, I have sprayed a couple coats of clear polyurethane on there with decent success, but her meter lives in a location that is sheltered from direct rainfall.
The unit is wired so the display is ON all the time, but it does not drain the battery. It does not draw much more current than a wristwatch display. Look at the size of the battery on your watch, then look at the size of the battery in your bike. Don't worry about it. The display is wired to go on and off with the key, but some of the ones I have seen were not all that bright. If you don't ride much at night, it's not that big a deal. Along with the backlight, you get the three voltage indicator lights, so you can see what's happening by watching those at night. The red light is ON and a beeper sounds if voltage goes below 11.5. The yellow light is on from 11.5 to 12.5 (I think), then the green light is on from 12.6 and up.

.

[Larry D]

Thanks again Steve. It's on my "I'm going to buy it" list.

[Larry D]

I'm having some difficulties hooking up my sense wire. I tried the taillight wire and the oil pressure switch wire and charging would climb to 15+v.

I'd like to wire it directly to the +positive on the battery where it's a solid 14.3v from +-2500rpms to redline.

After some searching I found this. Is this how it's done ?



Get the relay and touch every pair of points with an ohmeter, one pair will have a reading of somewhere between 10 and 10,000 ohms (probably around 200-400). This pair is the coil.

Connect either coil terminal to ground. Connect the other coil terminal to any point in the wiring harness that is switched on by the ignition switch, and is always on when the switch is on.
The other two terminals on the relay will now make contact any time the ignition switch is turned on.

Get an inline fuse and a ring terminal. The fuse handles less than an amp, so any value fuse from 1 to 10 amps is fine. The ring terminal goes directly on the battery positive terminal, and then is connected directly to the fuse. Make sure that all the wiring between the ring terminal and fuse is VERY well insulated, and protected from chafing or cutting. If this wire contacts anything it shouldn't, the bike will catch fire ...
The other end of the fuse goes to one of the remaining connections on the relay. The sense lead goes dircectly to the last connection on the relay.

Don't connect anything else to the line from the battery to the relay, or the relay to the sense lead. The whole point is to have the sense lead have a "pure" connection to the battery.

[posplayr]

Don't connect anything else to the line from the battery to the relay, or the relay to the sense lead. The whole point is to have the sense lead have a "pure" connection to the battery.

Aha you have discovered the achillies heel of the Handa R/R.
I would do a coil relay mod and then connect the 6th wire to the same output that powers your ignition circuit. A relay has very low rsistance and will not drop any significant voltage at the currents the ignition will draw.

The appraoch above is overkill; Put the relay to good use with a combo ignition / R/R sense relay.

If the relay contacts ever do get dirty, it is easy enough to swap out a new one. Remember to mount the relay some where dry, cooler and not subject to vibration.

[Larry D]

I understand the idea of the coil relay mod and really appreciate your advise, not just on this thread but, throughout these forums.

I have no issues with voltage drops anywhere in the electrical system and quite honestly, I don't want to mess with anything that's not needed. I've about had it with multimeters, snippers, wires and crimpers.........I much more comfortable tearing apart the top-end of the engine.

I'm going with the instructions above....as long as it will work properly and won't blow anything up.