Mosfet RR upgrade on 78 Skunk - Pics

[salty_monk]

Thought some might like to see how neat this mod is.

You have to drill out the spot welds for the L bracket that supports one part of the original 2 stage R - R then use the bolt that mounted the "R" to that L bracket for the right of the new RR / left of the fuse box.

The original holes for the other "R" have a straight length of Aluminium run between them with a hole somewhere near the middle. You need a spacer or a stack of washers over a long bolt with a Nylock nut for the back & voila...

You can see the AL plate in this one:





Having done this once with & once without the plugs I would say they are probably worth the 20 bucks for less hassle.... You could even get his loom for the +/- with the integral fuse as it looks really neat. www.easternbeaver.com

Dan

[TheCafeKid]

Looks good Dan. I'm probably going to do this very thing myself with this 76 750. At some point anyway. I got super lucky when I bought this thing last spring cause it only had 7K original miles on it and the wiring harness is flawless. Thus far the stock separate RR is charging flawlessly. Will be interesting to see how long that lasts. I may do an experiment. Hehe.

But I have one question. Could you have mounted it to the bottom of the batter box where the old regulator was? The bolt holes were or should have been perfect for it, and it would probably get more air down there. Though with a MOSFET RR it's probably a moot point.

[salty_monk]

That is where the original two piece unit is on the skunk... nothing on the bottom of Batt Box.
To answer your question - yes, if you have the one piece type that bolts to bottom of batt box then it's a straight bolt-on. I'm doing that on a GS1000G 1980 now. Definitely recommend the Furuwaka plugs in that location (Bot batt box)

Dan

Dan

[crapwacker]

On my 79, the head light seems to "switch" bright,dim,bright, but just slightly. Would this correct the issue? And what's the source for the mosfet?

[SqDancerLynn1]

On my 79, the head light seems to "switch" bright,dim,bright, but just slightly. Would this correct the issue? And what's the source for the mosfet?

It should correct it But I would also check the battery voltage vs the voltage on the fuse block. My 850 lights would dim when the brakes were applied, it had a voltage loss from the ign switch

[salty_monk]

Have a look at Matchless list. He lists several of these Mosfet RR's. One of mine if from a Kawasaki Concourse the other is from something else, maybe a ZX10 or R1.

All the latest bikes use them. The part number is usually FH0 something. The one in the pic is FH010 my other one is FH012 from memory. There is also an FH014 that looks the same but the connector spades are not 1/4" but slightly bigger.
There are plenty of others....

Dan

[crapwacker]

It should correct it But I would also check the battery voltage vs the voltage on the fuse block. My 850 lights would dim when the brakes were applied, it had a voltage loss from the ign switch

What did you do to correct the voltage loss?

[crapwacker]

Also, what wiring diagram was used for the rr upgrade? I have one on the way... ALSO, a friend has an 07 gs500 stator at my disposal; will this fit and/or is it better than what I have now?

[salty_monk]

There are wiring diagrams on the Triumphrat site but essentially it's +ve direct to Battery through a 30a fuse. (Cap off the old loom live or T it into the new wire at your choice).
-ve direct to frame & battery -ve.

The other 3 direct to stator in any order.

Not sure about that stator... could be worth a look I guess.

Dan

[crapwacker]

There are wiring diagrams on the Triumphrat site but essentially it's +ve direct to Battery through a 30a fuse. (Cap off the old loom live or T it into the new wire at your choice).
-ve direct to frame & battery -ve.

The other 3 direct to stator in any order.

Not sure about that stator... could be worth a look I guess.

Dan

I think I'm following, but what is the 've'?

[TheCafeKid]

There are wiring diagrams on the Triumphrat site but essentially it's +ve direct to Battery through a 30a fuse. (Cap off the old loom live or T it into the new wire at your choice).
-ve direct to frame & battery -ve.

The other 3 direct to stator in any order.

Not sure about that stator... could be worth a look I guess.

Dan

Btw Dan, 200+ miles on My bike with the FET with the inline 20A fuse and still never blown. ??

[salty_monk]

positi"VE" (+ve) negiti"VE" (-ve).

Josh - keep going mate... when you have to push it home one day..

I had done a fair few more than 200miles on mine before the 20A blew. Probably double I would think.

The 30a information comes from the Triumph Rat site, apparently it's due to shock loading & fatigue of the fuse itself over time or something..

[SqDancerLynn1]

What did you do to correct the voltage loss?

Used the ign switch to power a relay that poweres the fuse block. I would suspect this also makes sure the coils get the proper voltage. I never verified this..

[TheCafeKid]

positi"VE" (+ve) negiti"VE" (-ve).

Josh - keep going mate... when you have to push it home one day..

I had done a fair few more than 200miles on mine before the 20A blew. Probably double I would think.

The 30a information comes from the Triumph Rat site, apparently it's due to shock loading & fatigue of the fuse itself over time or something..

Oh gotcha. I'll keep an eye on her. I don't ever leave home without extra fuses anyway so I think we'll be on good terms she and I I'm just afraid sticking a 30A fuse in there would do more harm than good. A loose 30 amps can do quite a bit of damage to your harness before you ever realized it from the fuse blowing.

[crapwacker]

I took the easy way with the wiring and ordered harnesses from eastern beaver. Nice stuff and plug and play. Clean, simple & NEAT