New coils - still lose 1&4 after bike is hot

[rapidray]

I keep forgetting these things came with points & condensers! YUCK!!! Ray.

[posplayr]

I agree on the wiring situation.

For my own edification, is the relay mounted near the battery in my first picture the "Coil Relay Mod"?

Yes, that is what it appears to be. The is a crimp connection near the solenoid to get battery power that also runs through that fuse holder near the relay. The wires to control the relay and send switched power to the coils are all wired in.
My suggestion with that is to remove the crimp on connection and put a ring lug on it. Then attach it to the solenoid or battery directly. Otherwise it looks pretty good.

[Fergie]

Yes, that is what it appears to be. The is a crimp connection near the solenoid to get battery power that also runs through that fuse holder near the relay. The wires to control the relay and send switched power to the coils are all wired in.
My suggestion with that is to remove the crimp on connection and put a ring lug on it. Then attach it to the solenoid or battery directly. Otherwise it looks pretty good.

I'll try that out; thank you!

On another note, I've been researching and reading on points and condensers and such. I get how they function now, and the location on the bike.

After troubleshooting and checking to see what the exact issue is, and making the assumption that it is the points and condenser, I'm thinking that I'll be better off with a Dyna unit. The is all predicated by what I find under the cover.

[tkent02]

I'll try that out; thank you!

On another note, I've been researching and reading on points and condensers and such. I get how they function now, and the location on the bike.

After troubleshooting and checking to see what the exact issue is, and making the assumption that it is the points and condenser, I'm thinking that I'll be better off with a Dyna unit. The is all predicated by what I find under the cover.

Points are great, because they are simple. You look, you see what is wrong, you fix it.
Easy stuff.

[salty_monk]

These are a good alternative to those crimp connectors....

Sold online or at Napa even.

http://www.posi-lock.com/posiplug.html

[Fergie]

Havent had time to trouble shoot it properly, but pulled the cover and snapped a few pictures.

[Calvin Blackmore]

jaysus its the dyna s ignition!!!!
oh this is complicating

not to worry though

some dyna s guys will step in soon

[posplayr]

as you can see there are really only three wires going to the two side.

Both need Red power (hopefully comeing from the coil relay mod) , and then each returns the signal that controls the low side of the coils (looks like a black and a white).

So if you can confirm that the 1-4 dyna is not switching up and down ( from about 1v to +12V) after it gets hot then you know it is the dyna that is bad.

[Fergie]

as you can see there are really only three wires going to the two side.

Both need Red power (hopefully comeing from the coil relay mod) , and then each returns the signal that controls the low side of the coils (looks like a black and a white).

So if you can confirm that the 1-4 dyna is not switching up and down ( from about 1v to +12V) after it gets hot then you know it is the dyna that is bad.

Ok, so where do I put the probes to test voltage? I've tried every surface of bare metal and can't get a reading. Do I need to pull the red wires or remove a part of the dyna?

Thanks,
Gavin

[Guest]

Follow the wires from the dyna and see where they connect into the harness.
One white to coil
One black to other coil
One red to power.
I would check the connections there.
If you can get a probe into this connection check the black and white while running.

[Fergie]

Follow the wires from the dyna and see where they connect into the harness.
One white to coil
One black to other coil
One red to power.
I would check the connections there.
If you can get a probe into this connection check the black and white while running.

Roger.

Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1&#4 cut out, the signals would work.

I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.

[Guest]

Roger.

Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1&#4 cut out, the signals would work.

I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.

That's a gremlin

[posplayr]

Roger.

Also, something is definitely hinky with the wiring. When I was riding to warm the bike up, the turn signals would not work. Once the bike warmed up, and #1&#4 cut out, the signals would work.

I do think there is any causation there, but I do think there is a correlation.

Is this bike charging. The correlation is notworthy but the only theory for that correlation is the bike can't flash the blinker when the engine is running powering both coils.

Do a little test.

Let bike cool

see if blinkers work with engine off.
start bike on all 4 test blinker again. If it doesnt work
bike off again see if blinks.

You may just have a bad charging.

Do you have a volt meter?

[Fergie]

Yep, I've got a Craftsman digital job.

On a whim, I checked the voltage at the battery earlier, 11.5V when the bike was off. With the key on, it registered a few thou less. When I started the bike the reading was 11.78 and rising, depending on voltage.

The previous owner had replaced the stator with a used one at some point in the past, and he mentioned that he kept the bike on a smart charger when he wasnt riding frequently.

I'll try the test you mentioned above in the morning.

Thanks,
Gavin

[posplayr]

Yep, I've got a Craftsman digital job.

On a whim, I checked the voltage at the battery earlier, 11.5V when the bike was off. With the key on, it registered a few thou less. When I started the bike the reading was 11.78 and rising, depending on voltage.

The previous owner had replaced the stator with a used one at some point in the past, and he mentioned that he kept the bike on a smart charger when he wasnt riding frequently.

I'll try the test you mentioned above in the morning.

Thanks,
Gavin

Doesnt sound like you are charging. Are you kick starting? A charged battery is at 12.8ish V