Electrical Harness Compatability?

[stiksave]

Is the main harness from 82 gs1100E a good swap for an 83? Will the 82 replace the bad 83?

Thanks,
Stiksave

[posplayr]

Us. ....

whoops, texting error

Yes

[stiksave]

Thanks for the reply.

[stiksave]

I'm bumping this thread to re-introduce myself. Almost 3 years ago I swapped out my main electrical harness successfully. I then became intrigued with upgrading the rectifier/regulator, which I did and smoked my new old harness. I took on a new job that took over my life, and the bike sat for almost 3 years collecting dust. I kicked the job to the curb recently and jumped back into repairing my fubar. I bought a very clean donor harness off e-bay and a newer reg/rectifier off of a newer Goldwing. I took four days of squinting at the electrical diagram and rewired the bike with the new Goldwing part and the harness. The project went well. The electrics are in new condition with upgrades, Silverstar H4st lamp, and an AGM battery. Another week of primping and tuning, should be back on the road.

[posplayr]

I'm bumping this thread to re-introduce myself. Almost 3 years ago I swapped out my main electrical harness successfully. I then became intrigued with upgrading the rectifier/regulator, which I did and smoked my new old harness. I took on a new job that took over my life, and the bike sat for almost 3 years collecting dust. I kicked the job to the curb recently and jumped back into repairing my fubar. I bought a very clean donor harness off e-bay and a newer reg/rectifier off of a newer Goldwing. I took four days of squinting at the electrical diagram and rewired the bike with the new Goldwing part and the harness. The project went well. The electrics are in new condition with upgrades, Silverstar H4st lamp, and an AGM battery. Another week of primping and tuning, should be back on the road.

Congratulations fubar

[stiksave]

Nice to be remembered.

[stiksave]

Here's the R&R install.

[stiksave]

The bike cleaned up well for it's 30th anniversary.

[posplayr]

Here's the R&R install.

Looks good but I'm looking at that single ground wire and wondering about how did your voltages check out after the install? Especially the plus and negative voltage drops between R/R and Battery (see revised stator pages Phase A)?

[stiksave]

Looks good but I'm looking at that single ground wire and wondering about how did your voltages check out after the install? Especially the plus and negative voltage drops between R/R and Battery (see revised stator pages Phase A)?

Ran your quick test.
1) key off-12.6
2) key on-12.2
3) at idle-13.0
4) at 2500-13.1
5) at 5000-13.1
6) key off-12.9

[posplayr]

Ran your quick test.
1) key off-12.6
2) key on-12.2
3) at idle-13.0
4) at 2500-13.1
5) at 5000-13.1
6) key off-12.9

Quick Test Steps:

1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts

3.) at idle (1500 rpm).....12.6volts - 13.2volts

4.) at 2500 rpm 13.5 -14.0 volts

5.) at 5000 rpm.....14.0 -15.0 volts

6.) key off.....slightly higher than measurements # 1 (12.8-13.0 v)

Quick test is not a substitute for the Stator pages, it is mainly a quick sanity check to see which way to head.

You are obviously charging and battery is good but I suspect you have some bad connections which explains why you only charge at 13V. Do the revised Phase A tests

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k?da=y

[stiksave]

Rewired stator directly into R/R, conected R/R + - to battery. All seems good and healthy. Now on to the leaky valve cover gasket.

[stiksave]

Passed revised sator papers phase A tests nicely. Thanks for the input.

[posplayr]

Ran your quick test.
1) key off-12.6
2) key on-12.2
3) at idle-13.0
4) at 2500-13.1
5) at 5000-13.1
6) key off-12.9

You have problems. You should be over 14.0V at 4) and 5)

You are apparently charging but barely.

From GS Charging health.

You are probably going to find excessive voltage drops (that R/R connector will likely need to go)

Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k?da=y

ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES

The most important thing to do checks at 5000 RPM which is typical cruising speed. You might find that you will need to clean your fuse box to get the positive side voltage drops below 0.2V at 5000 RPM. In steps #1 above you should of gotten most of the connections between the R/R(+) to battery (+) in good shape except the fuse box.

[posplayr]

Passed revised sator papers phase A tests nicely. Thanks for the input.

what were the voltage drops at 5K RPM?