Melted 6 pin connector

[Charlie G]

This is a 6 pin connector in the headlight. I think the one which has melted through the connector in the wire from the R&R. The Yellow in some shrink wrap I put on the as a bandaid. Does anyone know if these connectors are available? What are your thoughts as to why this is happening. Thanks again for thoughts!


Charlie G

[Nessism]

The stupid out and back stator lead wire over heated and melted the connector. Suzuki sends one leg of the stator up to the headlamp switch for markets where you can turn off the head lamp, but the wire over heats and cooks the harness due to resistance in the wiring (worse with age). For US market bikes the wire runs forward to the connector in question and then turns right around and goes back to the R/R. GS school 101 says you need to rewire your stator to feed directly into the R/R so you can avoid such melt downs. There are places around that sell the connectors but when you do the work please rewire the charging system first.

[posplayr]

What ed said there is too much current goin through the stator touse that the of cheap connector

[salty_monk]

Those GM connectors at NaPa look good as a replacement option....
I think Eastern Beaver has this type of connectors if you want to go mail order

[Charlie G]

I was considering replacing the 6 pin connector with individual spade connectors. What do you think? Less resistance and better conductivity, cooler?

This loop from the stator and back to the R&R makes no sense to this carpenter with a household AC mind.

cg

[terrylee]

replaced most of my connections with spade type, so far works fine. Just use some small cable ties to keep wires tidy. terrylee

[posplayr]

I was considering replacing the 6 pin connector with individual spade connectors. What do you think? Less resistance and better conductivity, cooler?

This loop from the stator and back to the R&R makes no sense to this carpenter with a household AC mind.

cg

It is a bandaid to open one of the stator legs when lidghts are Not on.

[Charlie G]

The stupid out and back stator lead wire over heated and melted the connector. Suzuki sends one leg of the stator up to the headlamp switch for markets where you can turn off the head lamp, but the wire over heats and cooks the harness due to resistance in the wiring (worse with age). For US market bikes the wire runs forward to the connector in question and then turns right around and goes back to the R/R. GS school 101 says you need to rewire your stator to feed directly into the R/R so you can avoid such melt downs. There are places around that sell the connectors but when you do the work please rewire the charging system first.

I think I see where I can cut into the stator/RR loop near the fuse box and splice it, to abandon this connector in the headlight. Is this ( makes sense to me) the best way? Seems like this (OEM method)was engineered (?) by a wire salesmen or janitor. Thanks guys.


cg

[Charlie G]

It is a bandaid to open one of the stator legs when lidghts are Not on.

My bike dosen't have a operative light switch. The wire from the stator loops into this connector and back out to the RR. Is it implied with your ( all of you) comments, that this loop would be broken by a headlight switch if the lights were on. When the lights are off, excess current is produced and sent running around this loop? If so, this is a hokay way to control excess power.

I'm not sure if I've got this now or if I ever did, but I think I'm about to re-engineer this design with side cutters, connectors and a crimping tool.

Thanks for your time.

cg

[Nessism]

My bike dosen't have a operative light switch. The wire from the stator loops into this connector and back out to the RR. Is it implied with your ( all of you) comments, that this loop would be broken by a headlight switch if the lights were on. When the lights are off, excess current is produced and sent running around this loop? If so, this is a hokay way to control excess power.

I'm not sure if I've got this now or if I ever did, but I think I'm about to re-engineer this design with side cutters, connectors and a crimping tool.

Thanks for your time.

cg

Yea, the charging system disables one leg of the stator unless the headlamp is on...which for US bikes is all the time. Go straight from the stator to the R/R with spade terminals. Also, make an extra ground for your R/R and make sure it's solidly attached to the frame or go straight to the neg terminal on the battery. Suzuki's grounds were pretty sucky for the R/R so it's highly advised to clean that up while you got your crimpers handy.

[Charlie G]

Yea, the charging system disables one leg of the stator unless the headlamp is on...which for US bikes is all the time. Go straight from the stator to the R/R with spade terminals. Also, make an extra ground for your R/R and make sure it's solidly attached to the frame or go straight to the neg terminal on the battery. Suzuki's grounds were pretty sucky for the R/R so it's highly advised to clean that up while you got your crimpers handy.

Thanks Ed. I already did the grounding and direct to battery last March when I changed the RR and stator per Posplayer/Matchless threads. I'll snip and crimp and eliminate that loop and heat on the harness.

cg

[salty_monk]

You should be able to simply unplug it at the RR and plug it back in directly. It's on bullets. That's what my skunk was like....

[Charlie G]

You should be able to simply unplug it at the RR and plug it back in directly. It's on bullets. That's what my skunk was like....

I have to add one female connector, as I changed the stator and RR last spring and reconfigured a few wires/connectors.

cg