XS1100 charging problem

[old_chopper]

Not a Suzuki but I stll need help from the experts. The field coils check to spec and the stator tests good too. Zero output. Check commutator to commutator as in this picture shows continuity. I think this is bad. Also shows continuity from commutator to chassis.

[old_chopper]

This also shows continuity, no resistance.

[old_chopper]

This test shows .3 ohms correct to spec.

[old_chopper]

This does not show continuity

[posplayr]

Not a Suzuki but I stll need help from the experts. The field coils check to spec and the stator tests good too. Zero output. Check commutator to commutator as in this picture shows continuity. I think this is bad. Also shows continuity from commutator to chassis.

Those are not comutators like you would have on a starter. Those are just the poles of the stator and there is no current flow through them. They also munt to the cover so you will see continuity to the cover as well Macht Nix.

You have to make sure that the wires at the plug do not conenct to ground and that there is about 0.5 ohms between the windings (how many contacts in the plug 2 or 3?)

[posplayr]

This also shows continuity, no resistance.

This is supposed to be that way

[posplayr]

This test shows .3 ohms correct to spec.

OK good but check to ground?

[posplayr]

This does not show continuity

OK so staror checks, except the real test is how much voltage when you run at about 2-3K RPM (Harley right)?

[old_chopper]

Yamahopper, XS1100. Did I answer all your questions with the pictures? The output leads do not connect to ground and show .4 ohms. Zero output. Should the rotor on the crank be magnetic?

[posplayr]

Yamahopper, XS1100. Did I answer all your questions with the pictures? The output leads do not connect to ground and show .4 ohms. Zero output. Should the rotor on the crank be magnetic?

Yes but the real test is to leave the stator disconnected and run the motor while you measure how much voltage it puts out.

Typical GS is 70-80 volts AC at 5K RPM

[old_chopper]

I had zero output with that test. The bike set outside for 14 years and when I took the stator off there was water in the sleeve the wires were in. Shouldn't short out but I'm letting it dry and will try that test again tomorrow. Should I be checking two output leads at a time (one positive lead one negative lead) for that test. I know it's still AC output.

[posplayr]

I had zero output with that test. The bike set outside for 14 years and when I took the stator off there was water in the sleeve the wires were in. Shouldn't short out but I'm letting it dry and will try that test again tomorrow. Should I be checking two output leads at a time (one positive lead one negative lead) for that test. I know it's still AC output.

set meter to AC and measure between any two stator leads while the engine is running. How many contacts in the connector?


If it is two then it is single phase.

If it is 3 then 3 phase.

[old_chopper]

Actually four but three are same color (yellow) and one is white. I need to check to ensure I have 12 volts going to the coil to magnetize it. Also read I can hook the ground from the regulator to ground to get max output. I'll update the results tomorrow, thanks for your help!

[Graham]

With the key on (motor off) check for battery power going to the (center) field coil of your stator (if none check reg., fuse or battery).

Next, with stator together and bolted in place, plugged in. Turn key on and use a thin steal feeler gauge, steal paper clip and see if they try to stick to the case by the (center) field coil (magnetized). If they do (even the sliest bit) the center coil is good.

Now start the motor with stator (out side coils) unplugged and the field (center) coil plugged in. Check voltage from wire to wire going to the stator (20 to 80 volt AC is fine). Any voltage from stator wires to ground (case) is bad get new stator.

If all test are good replace rec./reg.
EDIT; This is the way we test them here in the shop. But someone just pointed out about following the manual, you could do that too.

[posplayr]

With the key on (motor off) check for battery power going to the (center) field coil of your stator (if none check reg., fuse or battery).

Next, with stator together and bolted in place, plugged in. Turn key on and use a thin steal feeler gauge, steal paper clip and see if they try to stick to the case by the (center) field coil (magnetized). If they do (even the sliest bit) the center coil is good.

Now start the motor with stator (out side coils) unplugged and the field (center) coil plugged in. Check voltage from wire to wire going to the stator (20 to 80 volt AC is fine). Any voltage from stator wires to ground (case) is bad get new stator.

If all test are good replace rec./reg.
EDIT; This is the way we test them here in the shop. But someone just pointed out about following the manual, you could do that too.

So is this an alternator or a PM generator like a GS? I'm confused?