At a loss?

[Redman]

Ok I read that other thread koolaid Posted and I like the idea of just replacing the fuse block with the blade fuses, I went back with a volt meter and put the glass fuses back in and relized that the metal tabs were really loose, so I'm going to get a new fuse block and desire it after work tomorrow. Will take pics to post tomorrow.

Hey, good. You are making progress.

When you say the metal tab is loose, I assume you mean where the metal tab holds onto the fuse. As a temperary fix you could squeese the metal tabls closer together.
If you mean it is real loos where the tab goes into the fuse box, that is a different problem. Maybe could investigate further by getting access to back of the fuse box. Maybe a temperary repair can be made by soldering.

The fuse box in koolaid's refrenced post is an aftermarket generic fuse box. That will work. Will have to know what wires to connect where, and which fuses to connect together on the orange wire.

If you were to get a stock suzuki fuse box from 82 or later GS, say from ebay, it will have just a connector on it (not wires), so you will want to find one where someone has also cut the wiring harness and inclused that (not likley to happen).

.

[koolaid_kid]

I agree, Redman, that connector may be difficult to find.
Scorpion, the link I posted was just an example. I strongly suggest you run the query and make your own decision. Depending on the amount of room you have, a different design may suit your needs better. You will need a wiring diagram for your bike in order to make the changeover.
Best of luck.

[Scorpion]

My Haynes manual should be here in the mail today or tomorrow so then I'll have the wiring diagram ready. And I have lots of room to put in a different fuse box. I might not know much on how to work on the carbs but wiring up fuses or wiring up 12v systems is easy to me.

[koolaid_kid]

You really should go here and download the factory service manual:http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
You might also want to download the 1000G wiring diagram, it may be the same as your bike.

[Scorpion]

Ok so I went to autozone and got a new fuse block and all the parts for it. I got home took the old fuse box out and retested each fuse with the test light then volt meter and I got better results the main and power source have contest 12 volts and the top three get 12 volts when the key is turned on but still no headlight horn turn signals or start the bike

[cowboyup3371]

Have you looked at the connectors to see if any were corroded or unplugged? What readings do you have at those connectors?

[Scorpion]

I have checked the connectors they are reading 12 volts as well. Correct me if I'm wrong but on my vstar the headlight wiring supplied the power to the turn signals and brake light is it the same on the gs.

[Scorpion]

I have checked every wire every fuse every connection and I can't find one problem but I still have no headlight turn signals horn brake light or ignition but I have dash lights, is there a relay that might need replacing here, I'm really good with wiring 12 volt systems and this is kicking my ass here

[Steve]

Correct me if I'm wrong but on my vstar the headlight wiring supplied the power to the turn signals and brake light is it the same on the gs.

Well, then, please consider this a correction.

In your stock fuse block, the top fuse powers the LIGHTS.
The second fuse powers SIGNALS, which include turn signals, horn, brake light and warning lights on the dash.
The third fuse powers the IGNITION, which includes power to the starter solenoid.
The fourth fuse is the MAIN fuse, which powers the bike until the engine is running, then it protects the battery from the regulator.
The fifth fuse is your AUX fuse, which only powers the terminals right next to it, at the end of the fuse block.

.

[JEEPRUSTY]

years ago when blade fuses took over we used to get all sorts of problems on glass fuses of ever decreasing quality. Im sure it not your problem but the filaments would sometimes break where they attached to the metal end caps and only pass current intermittently especially if the engine got started.

of coursse if you twisted or moved the harness you may have broken a wire that is apparently common at the harness where it runs by the sterring head.

welll good luck time to start dressing for the ball

[Scorpion]

Well I got tired of tracing wires on my iPhone screen so I print the wiring diagram at cvs just now on a 8x10 and it's way easier to read this thing, and the weird thing to me is when I turn the key on my oil light and neutral light come, but not my headlight or if I press the horn nothing if I hit the switch for turn signals nothing and if I pull the clutch lever in and press the start button nothing but power is going threw the top three fuses when I turn the key on so they are getting power but not turning on

[Scorpion]

Ok I have checked and double checked every wire and every connection I could find, I took off the headlight and checked all the wires and connections in there and still everything looks good and I tested the headlight and it works just fine very bright with just some spare wire from the battery to the light. From reading that wiring diagram it looks like it's the igiation switch cause the problem but idk.

[Texas Don]

The switches can't be assumed to be all good since they worked yesterday. That's how electrical components fail most times. They were working properly just a moment or a day ago, now they aren't.
The ignition switch is a likely culprit and is easy enough to verify. Follow the wires from the switch until you come to a 4 pin plug. On my 79GS1000 it's about 10" from the switch to the plug. Disconnect the plug, turn the switch on and using an ohmmeter check for continuity between the Red and Orange wire, then the Gray and Brown wire. Both sets of wire should read zero ohms. Turn the switch to the park position and you should read zero ohms between all 4 wires. If you read any resistance or if you should read an open circuit, repair or replace the switch. Originally on my bike a PO had cut off the plug and used crimp connectors to wire the switch into the harness permanently so be on the lookout for PO modifications to your bike. If the plug is missing and the wires connected together, you can still check the switch by inserting your meter probe along side the wire into the connector if need be.

[Scorpion]

OK I have done th ohm test and I got 0 ohms on the red and orange wire but .3 ohms on the gray and brown wire and I have checked every connections on the harness and still im getting the same results. I checked the headlight connection and it is getting power but when I plug the headlight in nothing, the horn is getting power from the switch but it wont make a sound when I push the button, the turn signals are getting power when I slide the switch over but the wont flash. I am so confused right now it making me insane. I have unpluged and reconnected every connection on this bike, my towel is in now.

[Redman]

OK I have done th ohm test and I got 0 ohms on the red and orange wire but .3 ohms on the gray and brown wire and I have checked every connections on the harness and still im getting the same results. I checked the headlight connection and it is getting power but when I plug the headlight in nothing, the horn is getting power from the switch but it wont make a sound when I push the button, the turn signals are getting power when I slide the switch over but the wont flash. I am so confused right now it making me insane. I have unpluged and reconnected every connection on this bike, my towel is in now.

Typically, if you measure power there at the device (headlight, whatever), but the device does not function, then either the device is defective or the device does not have a ground.

Look in headlight shell for where there are some balck/white wires connected together. THey should all be well grounded (zero ohms, no resitance to battery negitive.)

Headlight and t/signals maybe reliying on same ground connection (black/white wire), so one problem there could effect both.