'82 450 Igniter - Repair, Replace, or Make?

[Briars]

I also will present a test for -signal genetratror , iignition - and ignition coil

do you think it will be interesting this presentation ?

Interesting, it will be freaking awesome. I just can't get over how this thread has brought people from all over the world together to solve a common problem. Maybe our governments could learn a thing or two.

Pete, before I order the Dyna kit, I will measure that shaft and get with you to verify the rotor will work, or that I can make it work with a bushing or somthing.

Kokar, that 550 is very very nice.

[kokar]

Interesting, it will be freaking awesome. I just can't get over how this thread has brought people from all over the world together to solve a common problem. Maybe our governments could learn a thing or two.

Pete, before I order the Dyna kit, I will measure that shaft and get with you to verify the rotor will work, or that I can make it work with a bushing or somthing.

Kokar, that 550 is very very nice.

done !

[Guest]

Interesting, it will be freaking awesome. I just can't get over how this thread has brought people from all over the world together to solve a common problem. Maybe our governments could learn a thing or two.

Pete, before I order the Dyna kit, I will measure that shaft and get with you to verify the rotor will work, or that I can make it work with a bushing or somthing.

Kokar, that 550 is very very nice.

Hahaha yes indeed!

As long as the length and internal diameter match the 450's you should be good to go

[Briars]

Pete, my buddy looked this thread over today. It was very quick but when he saw the infomation you posted about the timing being 180 out he suggested you switch the wires at L1.
I just thought it may be worth a shot, but you may have already tried it.

He was very impressed with Kokars reverse engienerring for the igniter as well.

[Guest]

Cheers Perry, I haven't actually tried that...

I do have some email conversations going on with Lou and another fella off the forum about it, but I've been a little preoccupied with paint prep. at the moment so I've let it slip.

At this stage it's looking like there's something a bit funky going on with the rotor and it may end up being better to use the 7 pin HEI modules rather than the 4 pin.

[spyug]

Big congrats there Pete old mate. As my old grandad used to say "perserverance pays off". As others have mentioned its great to see so many people from all over the world working toward a common goal. To bad we can't do that in day to day living as God knows we have enough common problems to sort out.

On the 550 front, there are other guys currently working the igniter "rebuild" idea and we're hopeful something will come together soon.

I'm still hacking away at my 550 project but haven't as yet gotten her back on her wheels for a road test. Everytime I do something, something else goes pear shaped. Now that riding season is winding down over here I'll be getting stuck in. I do want to get a road test in so I can confirm my igniter interchange is a done deal.

Its nice to see that guys like Kokar and Briers are working the rebuild idea as well. With what you've found there will undoubtedly be several more fixes now to get some of these old "crocks" back on their tires.

Cheers guys and keep it up.
Spyug

[Guest]

Big congrats there Pete old mate. As my old grandad used to say "perserverance pays off". As others have mentioned its great to see so many people from all over the world working toward a common goal. To bad we can't do that in day to day living as God knows we have enough common problems to sort out.

On the 550 front, there are other guys currently working the igniter "rebuild" idea and we're hopeful something will come together soon.

I'm still hacking away at my 550 project but haven't as yet gotten her back on her wheels for a road test. Everytime I do something, something else goes pear shaped. Now that riding season is winding down over here I'll be getting stuck in. I do want to get a road test in so I can confirm my igniter interchange is a done deal.

Its nice to see that guys like Kokar and Briers are working the rebuild idea as well. With what you've found there will undoubtedly be several more fixes now to get some of these old "crocks" back on their tires.

Cheers guys and keep it up.
Spyug

Cheers Spyug, I must say I'm lovin' the Dynatek... I really like the fact that there's no ignitor module as such anymore and that helps so much with my cramped electrics tray. In fact it helps so much I'm thinking of redoing it smaller with some aluminium which will end up a lot neater than what I have.

I know what you mean about one thing going pear shaped once you sort something out... that's all the fun of these 30 year old bikes right? Haha

Will definitely be good to see you get your 550 road tested though...

And yes, the more the merrier for sure with this stuff! I think we'll end up with 3 different alternatives for the 450's and a couple of 250's and the 550's using this ignitor should end up with 2 alternatives also...

[Guest]

I keep neglecting to get back to this thread...

I passed on the two brief ride video's to Dynatek and have done up some detailed installation instructions for them to review as well.

So, hopefully before too long there will be an official 80 - 82 GS450 option for the DS3-3C from Dynatek themselves

[Briars]

Hey Pete!

I need a bit of advise. I got a 8 wire honda R/R and put on the bike. I then took a chance on an igniter I found on ebay for 75$.

The good news is the igniter is good! The bad news is as soon as it fired up I noticed the battery was bubling, it is pretty clear and the light was just right. I quickly grabed my meter and took a voltage reading. I was getting 19 volts at the battery. I shut it down immediatly.

I checked the R/R before I put it on and I thought it was ok, put I was not positive. I would get a reading on all the yellow wires one way but would not when flipping the positive and negative leads.

However my question is this. I hooked the sense wire up wrong. I have it on a wire going to the tail light but it is only hot when the headlight is on. I know for a fact that I did not have the headlight on so the sense wire was not seeing any voltage.

Could that be the reason I had the 19 volts or do you think the regulator is bad?

Any help is apriciated.

Cheers

Pete, I figured it out, with the sense wire hot I am getting 13.1 volts at idle. Howeve I do think the stator may be getting week. You got any suggestions on that one? (drops to apx 12.9 just off idle then 13.8 volts at 4k and above)

[Guest]

Hey Pete!

I need a bit of advise. I got a 8 wire honda R/R and put on the bike. I then took a chance on an igniter I found on ebay for 75$.

The good news is the igniter is good! The bad news is as soon as it fired up I noticed the battery was bubling, it is pretty clear and the light was just right. I quickly grabed my meter and took a voltage reading. I was getting 19 volts at the battery. I shut it down immediatly.

I checked the R/R before I put it on and I thought it was ok, put I was not positive. I would get a reading on all the yellow wires one way but would not when flipping the positive and negative leads.

However my question is this. I hooked the sense wire up wrong. I have it on a wire going to the tail light but it is only hot when the headlight is on. I know for a fact that I did not have the headlight on so the sense wire was not seeing any voltage.

Could that be the reason I had the 19 volts or do you think the regulator is bad?

Any help is apriciated.

Cheers

Pete, I figured it out, with the sense wire hot I am getting 13.1 volts at idle. Howeve I do think the stator may be getting week. You got any suggestions on that one? (drops to apx 12.9 just off idle then 13.8 volts at 4k and above)

Cool, glad you got it figured out, I was going to say that definitely looks like a sense wire issue.

I just replaced my stator as my output had dropped to 12.5v peak, so I put an Electrex World one in and now I'm getting 14 - 14.7v and it's running extremely well.

I believe the Ricks stator may be a better option as I think it comes with the rubber grommet. I had to fight mine off the old one to reuse it. I couldn't wait the 2 weeks shipping time which is why I went the Electrex one locally.

[tom203]

Briar said.... "Pete, I figured it out, with the sense wire hot I am getting 13.1 volts at idle. Howeve I do think the stator may be getting week. You got any suggestions on that one? (drops to apx 12.9 just off idle then 13.8 volts at 4k and above"

Those are pretty good readings- recleaning connections might give you a little more (> 14 volts) above 4k; I'd do this before opting for new stator.

[Guest]

Briar said.... "Pete, I figured it out, with the sense wire hot I am getting 13.1 volts at idle. Howeve I do think the stator may be getting week. You got any suggestions on that one? (drops to apx 12.9 just off idle then 13.8 volts at 4k and above"

Those are pretty good readings- recleaning connections might give you a little more (> 14 volts) above 4k; I'd do this before opting for new stator.

Crap, thanks Tom, meant to say exactly the same thing! If the stator's good you should get more than that, but dodgy grounds and connections will definitely have a large impact.

Still having morning wake up coffees after an alcohol infused night in the spa...

[Briars]

Thanks guys I will clean it all up and see how it goes. I am just stoked to get it running again.

At some point I wil probable do a full tear down and have the frame powdercoated, new paint, etc.

But for now I just want to get it running again and use it as a commuter. It is a sweet little bike (250T) and I have already done alot to it. (tank, carbs, front forks and springs, adjusted valves, checked compression, tires, brakes, pretty much the whole thing other than motor) The motor only has 16k on it and is really running well. It is real happy at 55mph.

I am going to do the stator test and if it checks out ok run it for awhile. Then over next winter maybe I will strip all the wireing and put all new connections, etc and so forth.

You guys and this forum have been a great help to me. I really appriciate it.

[Guest]

Good stuff, glad we can be of help

I'm getting towards 2500km's on mine since the rebuild and she's running strong, love my little 450!

And on topic for this thread... the Dynatek is going strong

[barnbiketom]

If you compare the wiring diagram for the GS 450 and the GS500, you will find they are actually identical, igniton module and pulser wise.. and the ignitors abound on Ebay for the GS 500. you will, however , need to obtain the pigtail from the GS500 OR simply use female crimp connectors,, since the plugs differ.
A gentleman in Italy, I believe , found this.. I'm taking no credit but I'll be getting a spare for my 450 very soon hah. I have not checked the similarity in the ignition coils internal resistance between the two models, this would make a difference if one were very much different from the other.. Th e driver transistor may overheat if the gs450 coils is less resistance(more amps needed)but I would BET they are about the same.. if anyone has this info let us know??