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Hi,
I don't want to get in the way of Mr. rustybronco. I just want to share this.
You will toss the old separate rectifier and regulator units. Connect the three output wires from the stator to the input wires on the new r/r unit. As stated in The Stator Papers, the stock Suzuki stator had different colors for the output wires but just consider them all "yellow" because the order doesn't matter how they are connected to the input wires on the new r/r unit.
Then green is ground, black is the "sense" wire, and red is the regulated output.
You may have a loop going up to a headlight switch on the handlebar. This can be disconnected and covered. I think it's explained in the Stator Replacement guide on my little website.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffComment
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I guess i just feel a bit slow today...
Totally figured it out. the Y splits arent going to matter anyways since its one unit. the Y's just go back to the stator. (Man, do i feel dumb.) Came to this conclusion after re-reading the rectifier checks in the manual... how i did not see that is beyond me... Fig 11-13 really opened my eyes, Haha. I'll let you know how the install went!
Thanks again, and sorry for the confusion and lack of experience... maybe one day i'll have a finished product
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ran some more tests on the stator yesterday to make sure the thing didn't fry from the bad OEM R/R, and just as i thought, the thing has continuity on every leg... no resistance at all between yellow wires. (from what I've read it should have at least a .5 ohm resistance) ordered a new ricks stator to go with this R/R kit, so hopefully with an entirely new charging system i shouldn't have any issues in the near future
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Continuity is GOOD in the legs of the stator.ran some more tests on the stator yesterday to make sure the thing didn't fry from the bad OEM R/R, and just as i thought, the thing has continuity on every leg... no resistance at all between yellow wires. (from what I've read it should have at least a .5 ohm resistance) ordered a new ricks stator to go with this R/R kit, so hopefully with an entirely new charging system i shouldn't have any issues in the near future
Just so you don't get confused, even 1000 ohms is "continuity". Zero ohms is also "continuity".
When wires are connected, the circuit is "continuous" and current can flow.
What you DON'T want is a break in the stator legs or continuity from any of the legs to a ground point.
.sigpic
mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Siblings and Spouses
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
(Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)Comment
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Am i reading the stator papers and stator checks incorrectly in regards to each leg having no resistance between them? (when they state they should have at least .5-2.0 ohms?)Continuity is GOOD in the legs of the stator.
Just so you don't get confused, even 1000 ohms is "continuity". Zero ohms is also "continuity".
When wires are connected, the circuit is "continuous" and current can flow.
What you DON'T want is a break in the stator legs or continuity from any of the legs to a ground point.
.
I'm an electrical newbie... for some reason I've always had difficulty with it...Comment
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Hi,
You are reading it right. If you get 0.0 ohms between legs then the windings are shorted, probably due to melted insulation on the wires. Shorted windings do not produce AC, which is bad for charging systems and other living things.
Like Mr. Steve says, "continuity" is just a fancy word for a "connection". Connections can have different resistance values.
This is a timely thread: Why Unloaded Stator tests are BAD.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 04-08-2011, 01:25 PM.Comment
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sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things
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I sat there for the better part of 30 minutes checking and rechecking the resistance between legs... 0.0 came up with every single leg i tested between the three.Comment
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78GS1KNH, have you measured the a.c. voltage of the stator with the bike running as of yet?Comment
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No only because i still am in the process of tuning and can't keep the battery charged enough to get good reads from the carbtune and the idle mixture.. THis is how i determined that my regulator was bad, as it was pushing nothing to the battery. Checked the connections and the regulator at 5krpm when i was looking into which piece could be the culprit, and the regulator was definitely bad, as it was pushing nearly nothing to the battery for charging voltage . I then looked into whether or not there was a short across the legs of the stator because of the failed regulator, and sure enough A-B showed 0.0, A-C showed 0.0, and B-C showed 0.0.Comment
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And we are to 'assume' your meter is working correctly?
what resistance readings do you get between the legs of the stator and ground?
you can always pull the cover and take a peek at the stator.Comment
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lol, It has yet to fail me
I'm going to pull the cover hopefully this weekend to check and recheck my readings.
Time to get another bottle of locktite! I am though pretty sure the thing is dead. like paperweight dead.
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P/N 31401-49010 Fits...
[CODE]1978 Suzuki GS1000C
1978 Suzuki GS1000EC
1979 Suzuki GS1000EN
1979 Suzuki GS1000LN
1979 Suzuki GS1000N
1979 Suzuki GS1000SN
1980 Suzuki GS1000ET
1980 Suzuki GS1000GLT
1980 Suzuki GS1000GT
1980 Suzuki GS1000ST
1980 Suzuki GS1100ET
1980 Suzuki GS1100LT[/CODE]
I donna gotts no any to spare...
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