Entire electrical system suddenly dead -- '82 GS650GL

[PhamNuwen]

I recently got my 1982 GS650GL running and registered. Over the last two weeks I've ridden it to the DMV in the next town over, taken it to work a few times, and gone for a few rides around town just for the hell of it. Today, just as I was pulling into the parking lot at work, exactly 100 miles (seriously, it had just turned over to 100.0) since I got it running and reset the tripmeter, the engine cut out as I turned a corner.

My electrical system no longer seems to do anything for the bike. That is, when I turn the key on, the oil/neutral/blinker lights won't light, the headlight and turn signals don't work, the horn doesn't beep, and the starter button doesn't do anything.

I opened up the fuse box and tested; I've got 13 volts at the 2 "mains" fuses (where the battery connects), 0 volts at the three other fuses regardless of the state of the key. I found the cable that goes up to the key, unplugged it and tested the pins... found two pins that have continuity when the key is on and no continuity when it's off, so I think the key switch is good.

At this point I'm not entirely sure what I should try next. Any suggestions? Is there some part of the electrical system that is particularly prone to shaking loose? A single part that might cause this behavior that I should check first?

[Matchless]

I recently got my 1982 GS650GL running and registered. Over the last two weeks I've ridden it to the DMV in the next town over, taken it to work a few times, and gone for a few rides around town just for the hell of it. Today, just as I was pulling into the parking lot at work, exactly 100 miles (seriously, it had just turned over to 100.0) since I got it running and reset the tripmeter, the engine cut out as I turned a corner.

My electrical system no longer seems to do anything for the bike. That is, when I turn the key on, the oil/neutral/blinker lights won't light, the headlight and turn signals don't work, the horn doesn't beep, and the starter button doesn't do anything.

I opened up the fuse box and tested; I've got 13 volts at the 2 "mains" fuses (where the battery connects), 0 volts at the three other fuses regardless of the state of the key. I found the cable that goes up to the key, unplugged it and tested the pins... found two pins that have continuity when the key is on and no continuity when it's off, so I think the key switch is good.

At this point I'm not entirely sure what I should try next. Any suggestions? Is there some part of the electrical system that is particularly prone to shaking loose? A single part that might cause this behavior that I should check first?

I suggest you get a copy of the wiring diagram. Basically the main fuse feeds battery to the ignition switch, so you should get 12v there on the same colour wire that leaves the main fuse. The other side goes back to the other fuses, which then feed the ignition, brakelight etc.

I would double check the main fuse as these fuse boxes with glass fuses are prone to be troublesome. Make doubly sure your 12V is actually going out to the ignition switch from the main fuse. Check the other end right on the ignition switch plug to make sure it is getting there. Then switch the ignition on and test the other side to make sure 12V is leaving the switch and reaching the fuses.

[PhamNuwen]

I suggest you get a copy of the wiring diagram. Basically the main fuse feeds battery to the ignition switch, so you should get 12v there on the same colour wire that leaves the main fuse. The other side goes back to the other fuses, which then feed the ignition, brakelight etc.

I would double check the main fuse as these fuse boxes with glass fuses are prone to be troublesome. Make doubly sure your 12V is actually going out to the ignition switch from the main fuse. Check the other end right on the ignition switch plug to make sure it is getting there. Then switch the ignition on and test the other side to make sure 12V is leaving the switch and reaching the fuses.

I'll see if my service manual contains a wiring diagram when I get home. When you say the main fuse feeds battery to the ignition switch, by ignition switch do you mean the key or the Start button? I'm kinda guessing it's the key but I wanted to make sure (it'll be a few hours before I can get at the wiring diagram).

[tom203]

I'll see if my service manual contains a wiring diagram when I get home. When you say the main fuse feeds battery to the ignition switch, by ignition switch do you mean the key or the Start button? I'm kinda guessing it's the key but I wanted to make sure (it'll be a few hours before I can get at the wiring diagram).

Forget your manual and head straight to Basscliff's site for a lovely READABLE wiring diagram! The main fuse sends power to key switch, which then can send it back to other fuses ( ignition, headlight, turn signals) when key is switched to "ON". In any event replace that main 15 amp fuse immediately as it is probably no good, assuming you haven't played around with wiring. Something this sudden is bound to be something simple!

[PhamNuwen]

Sure enough, the 4-pin connector that joins the ignition switch to the wiring harness was shot. I was able to track it down without too much trouble thanks to Basscliff's diagram and fixed it.

Thanks guys!

[Matchless]

There you go!!

[rluper]

Ok.. so not to add another thread... The PO of my bike spliced and actually got a car alternator on the bike... so yeah there are a crap load of wires and nearly all are exposed out of the tape... a big head ache so I bought a new wiring harness though it was from the L model where mine is a G model. (1980 850G)

Question is: Are there any inline fuses and if so where... Also, stupid question, if I turn the ignition on to test functionality (engine off), will I risk frying anything other than fuses if I misconnected something? I plan on using a multimeter but just wondering.
And I only spent 5 hours today looking through all the wiring and figuring out what goes where so I will probably have more questions!

Thanks for the advice and that wiring diagram helped a ton.

[cowboyup3371]

Actually Rluper you would want to add another thread for this to keep everything straight and on track for both you and the OP.