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I just want the guts out of the plastic case while leaving the case intact and undamaged..I plan on throwing the guts and mother board away and placing the 2 flasher units inside and making "look" OEM. I dont care if they are self cancelling or not.
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MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it. -
Chuck,Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
I just had a look at the box of the 1980 one I removed the insides from and it is definitely quite flexible. It does not use a mounting rubber, the mounting is part of the box.
If yours is the same, try prying the casing from the epoxy filled block with a flat blade screw driver.Comment
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so would i use the flasher relays from the bike or can i use just a standard automotive relay. is there a certain amperage to use?Comment
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Andre..it has the little lip molded into the case that fits into the battery box...then its held in with the thick black rubber strap with the rectangular metal clasps at each end.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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You can use a standard load dependent 2 pin 12V automotive flasher if using front and rear bulbs of 21 W each or a 3 pin electronic type (which requires an additional ground wire) and is not load dependent and can run either 10W or 21 W bulbs.Originally posted by PoppaDre View PostComment
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Mine has the fastening which is normally a separate rubber piece moulded on the back and it just clips over the metal clip on the battery box.Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
If I push on that plastic mounting its feels flexible like Tupperware and is not ABS plastic. It comes loose from something sticking to it like plaster of paris will loosen from a tupperware dish after it dried and you flex the plastic, sort of like a mold. Is the plastic on yours very rigid or sort of flexible like say a Tupperware box?Comment
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It seems quite hard..like ABS. I may try to use a fillet knife to cut around the leading edges of the sealer stuff and see if it releases anythingMY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.Comment
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I would be using the stock flashers for now. I found these locally. Would they work?
http://www.thesource.ca/estore/produ...language=en-CAComment
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Originally posted by PoppaDre View Post
No that is just a standard automotive relay.
You want a standard generic automotive flasher relay replacement from your Napa or Federal Mogul Autozone stores
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Reviving an old thread. Still working on resurrecting my GS1000s. Look like the TSCU is dead for the left signal.
If I do the twin flasher trick listed in post 21 and 48 of this thread, do I need the original flasher under the left side cover at all?
ThanksComment
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