more turn signal probs
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more turn signal probs
decided to start my own thread.83 gs 1100 esd, turn signals dont blinkif i tap on the flasher it will blink once. tried 2 prong, basic one, and 10 3 prong electronic. any one have any ideas?Tags: None -
What about a regular three prong, like your bike came with?Ed
To measure is to know.
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snicrep5
ill try it but the one that was on it looks electronic. i tried the 2 prong old fashoined type, like basscliff recommended. and got no acticvity.Comment
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Fizzyhair
Can you give us a touch more background on this problem? When did it start? What indicators are you using? What have you checked etcComment
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snicrep5
this is a basket case that i restored . so this is how it workrd from the beginning. its all stock. flasher is under the tank.Comment
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These guys want to know if the turn signals are stock. LED type signals, common in the aftermarket, don't have enough resistance to make the stock turn signal flasher relay function (no flash).Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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snicrep5
all i know is the lights have bulbs (1156/1157 type) and the flasher, by its condition, is original. the old 2 prong style didnt work and the 3 prong electronic style didnt work, If some can tell me which 3 prong will work so i dont have to go back to autozone again. Or maybe it will take the $uzuki one. thanksComment
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1_v8_merc
Usually if you tap the relay and it blinks once, that means the relay can be bad.(if it's the stock flasher unit)
But it can also be dirty turn signal connections, or a loose bulb.
What about the turn signal stalks....are they stock, or aftermarket?
(I'm talking about the Actual turn signal light encasing itself.....not flasher relay)
Usually the stock units are a big long goofy chrome signal.Comment
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Fizzyhair
The circuit comes from the battery through the relay and to the switch on the bars. When the switch is engaged it links the live line with the flasher relay in it to one sides indicator lamps, which then ground themselves through the frame. The negative on the battery is of course also fixed to the frame.
The 2 pin relay is inline and the 3 pin has its own ground. The relay will click back and forth not at a set rate like an electronic one but will instead be affected by the load placed upon it. So if the bulbs are of to small of a load or are LED, they won't draw enough current to trip the relay.
So it's vital that your first port of call is to check thy the correct bulbs are in use. If they are then check the grounding points at the indicators are all making good contact with bare frame metal.
Connect the battery positive to the lead that goes to the switch. And I you turn on the flashers they should light statically. If not it's the lights. If they do it's the relay.
Electronic one will be best bet in that case and it will be 13notes from any good auto dealer.Last edited by Guest; 08-14-2011, 08:36 AM.Comment
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snicrep5
yes stalks are stock. front bulbs illuminate as they should. this bike had alot of corrosion, I think ill go check the switch, clean it up, and recheck the bulbs and sockets. thanks , youve given me someplace to look.Comment
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snicrep5
i found mud dobber debres in the turn sig sw housing I sprayed elec pts cleaner and got it to blink on one side only for a few blinks.I need to clean it out better so how do i get the turn button off of the switch to open it, im afraid im going to break it. Indicator only comes on for the right side.
I also have one black/white ground wire in the headlight housing i cant find a mate for and a double, brown wire that is hot, the schematic shows it with nothing attached , the ground as well. i guess they are for some options.Comment
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To get the button off you first have to split open the the clam shell, pull the guts out of the switch, then turn the button 90 degrees to pull it out of the housing. Lots of little pieces inside, but repair is doable (I've done three so far). If you get stuck drop me a PM and I'll hunt down some photos.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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snicrep5
i got as far as splitting it, removing the metal plate held by 3 screws, but the rest seems to be held on by the switch. Ill try that, but first im going to put a full charge on the battery, its getting low. from all the testing/ maybe thats the problem now thanksComment
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Look again, there may be a screw hiding under the wire harness. The main switch guts come out.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-ResurrectionComment
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