battery quick connect options

[Trevor76]

Undoubtedly my least favorite thing about my bike (1980 GS450) is how difficult it is to get to the battery to service/charge/check for voltage etc.

Basically I have to remove the seat to get the sidecovers off, undo the negative wire, then back the nut off of the starter solenoid post that the positive wire goes to...also unplug the wire that leads to the fuse, also off of battery positive.

Removal is not the big issue, trying to get the test probes of a multimeter on the terminals while it is on the bike is the real headache.

I don't want to relocate the battery but is there an easier way to route the cables? I was thinking maybe I could stick a bullet connector in the battery positive wire between the solenoid and battery terminal, but I don't know that it would be a good idea to do that on a battery cable. Any thoughts?

Also I was wondering if anyone had the ring terminals from a battery tender hooked up to their battery permanently for quick connections, is this advisable?

[elrico]

Working well for me so far.Just keep batt.term,bolt/nuts snug.If you have Maint.Free type batt (if avail.for bike),would be a nice combo,no acid/water fluid level to check up on.Maybe a bit of blue loctite on bolt/nuts,maybe no relocation of batt. concerns..easy checks,hook up on monitor/charger between rides/usage/storage etc.

[MikeG]

My battery tender pigtail is permanently mounted and ziptied to the right side of the bike. I can plug in the dvom there and get a quick reading easily.

[Steve]

Don't have any 450s in the stable , but we do have pigtails on all five bikes that are licensed and insured.

Besides being a handy place to charge the battery, it's good for connecting meter leads and electric clothing.

.

[Normk]

As you will know, many clothing and charger manufacturers use a flat, rubber bodied two wire connector which is very robust and fairly easy to manipulate with gloved hands. Don't have a photo handy but they are the same family as these four wire trailer connectors:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Boat-Trailer-Hitch-RV-4-Pole-Flat-Connector-2-Foot-Wire-/270839890263?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f0f50c157

In fact it is often less expensive to buy the 4 wire version and use a shop knife to split off the last two terminals.

The opposite pair are the ones you want as one is insulated (covered) while the next is not. When connecting to the bike, use the open (male) terminal for the ground (earth) because this one is not insulated so it doesn't matter if it touches metal. Put an inline fuse between the female connector and the battery and you're good to go for charging, checking battery voltage and to plug in an electric vest, cell charger, etc.

I prefer the sealed type ATC fuse holders:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Standard-Wedge-Inline-ATC-Fuse-Holder-12-Gauge-Wire-Auto-RV-Ham-Radio-/300615279624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45fe112408

**Note: I'm not endorsing the listings shown but just grabbed the first ones which came up on a search so as to have photos.

I do advise that the glass tube type fuse holders be avoided despite that they can be chosen to match the standard fuses used on the bikes. The inline glass tube type fuses are much more susceptible to corrosion and holders are generally more difficult to keep sealed. That said, there are good choices out there if that's your flavor.

Another point is that one should avoid making connections to the battery in order to obtain power connections. The battery is a high corrosion risk area and requires that the connections be disturbed for servicing. Ground connections are better made close to the area in which the component is installed rather than running several feet of ground wire back to the battery. This is the method used by professionals for good reason. Some useful ground connection points near the battery area are the mounting screws for the starter relay, and the unused threaded hole just below.

For unswitched power (battery) one is best advised to connect to the battery side of the starter relay than to the battery for corrosion and convenience reasons as above. Many traumas have occurred when someone is replacing a battery which has several wires attached. If a power wire is swapped to ground something won't work which will require troubleshooting. Swap a ground wire to battery + and watch the smoke! It's best to avoid and besides it will save having the shop techs laughing at you.

I installed one of the above sets onto Suzie which has the flat connector tucked up behind the left plastic side cover so it is easy to flick out into the open to connect a charger.

Suzie is a 1979 GS850G so has limited charging system capacity which will not carry more than the bar heaters so connecting a heated vest is likely not an option.

I will post this in a separate thread but even with HID headlight (3.2 amps rather than 5+ amps draw to standard headlight) the normal output from the alternator is 8 amps. but full load output is only 14 amps. so only around 3 amps left to recharge battery and carry intermittent loads such as brake and signal lights. That's very close, too close for stop and go riding unless one makes good choices such as high idle speed.

HIH

Norm

[Trevor76]

Okay, thanks for the responses guys. I understand everything in theory Norm, I will re-visit this thread after I have gathereed everything I need to do the job-namely the battery Tender ring terminal connector (it has the two-pole connector you referred to) and an inline fuse holder -readily available.

I may need a little further clarification on what to connect where.

[Souske]

Got a Napa nearby?
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...598_0282406722

It is a good idea to use the shielded side of the connector for the + connection of the bike. Having the - side touch ground is no big deal

[850 Combat]

+1 on the Battery Tender pigtail. It uses an SAE connector, which is an overpriced but generally available connector. My Gearz electric vests use it, as does my Eclipse. I have converted Tourmaster vests over to it, and will make a cell phone plug for it.

http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superstore.com/motorcycle/Sae%20Connector

I have significant personal experience with running electric vests and some experience with running electric gloves (Widder) with an electric vest on a GS850G, 1000G, and 1100G on tours. No electrical problems, so I naturally do not hold with the theory that it can't be done.

I provided GS850's and an 1100G and electric vests to my brothers for a number of tours, sometimes in pretty cold conditions.

My battery tender pigtail is permanently mounted and ziptied to the right side of the bike. I can plug in the dvom there and get a quick reading easily.

[Normk]

What is the origin of the "can't be done theory"? As long as the charging system has the capacity all is well, although I find that few measurements of actual outputs and power consumption are available.

I'm gathering both the fact and fiction regarding the GS and sometimes the fiction can be as useful as the fact.

Norm

+1 on the Battery Tender pigtail. It uses an SAE connector, which is an overpriced but generally available connector. My Gearz electric vests use it, as does my Eclipse. I have converted Tourmaster vests over to it, and will make a cell phone plug for it.

http://motorcycle.motorcycle-superstore.com/motorcycle/Sae%20Connector

I have significant personal experience with running electric vests and some experience with running electric gloves (Widder) with an electric vest on a GS850G, 1000G, and 1100G on tours. No electrical problems, so I naturally do not hold with the theory that it can't be done.

I provided GS850's and an 1100G and electric vests to my brothers for a number of tours, sometimes in pretty cold conditions.

[Guest]

Don't have any 450s in the stable

But you *should* Steve, fun little bikes

Not much good for your sort of touring though...

I just got a new battery and charger for my 450 and have hooked the charger's pigtails up semi-permanently and have cable tied the harness in with the rest of my wiring as I also really don't want to have to pull the battery out just to give it a charge...

[Steve]

Don't have any 450s in the stable

But you *should* Steve, fun little bikes

Not much good for your sort of touring though. ...

My older son started us down the GS ownership road with an '81 450T.


Did not sign up with GSR until we got my wife's '82 850L, though, so you guys were spared the 'pleasure' of my company for at least a little while.

.

[Trevor76]

Well I ended up ordering two Battery Tender replacement pigtails, I couldn't beat the price as they have the fuse built in. For two of them shipped it ran me like twelve bucks. I'll put one on the Honda as well.

[Normk]

Trevor, connect the pig tails to ground and power from the battery cable side of the starter relay. It's under the left side cover and avoids the battery connection issues.

FWIW,

Norm

[Guest]

My older son started us down the GS ownership road with an '81 450T.


Did not sign up with GSR until we got my wife's '82 850L, though, so you guys were spared the 'pleasure' of my company for at least a little while.

.

That was a nice T he had there Steve

[Steve]

That was a nice T he had there Steve

Thanks, Pete. He then moved on to a 650L, then went to the "dark side" with a Yamaha Venture 1200, then the Venture Royale 1300 that is shown in my sig. Right now, he is riding one of his brother's bikes. They have the 850 and the 1000 with them as they travel for the summer. No telling who rides which bike, I don't think it matters much to them.

.