Won't Start

No, you cannot shorten it. Just not gonna happen. There is no way to reattach the ferrule (the barrel at the end) properly to make a long-term reliable cable. When I was at the Gap in 2004 Walker (of Walker's garage) was able to mend my broken cable by cutting it and brazing a new ferrule on it. But he cautioned me to replace the cable as soon as I got back home.
It is possible to reroute it to take up the slack if you feel it is too long. Personally, since you have everything exposed, I would order another one, perhaps shorter if you can find it, and keep that one as a spare. And always go with OEM for cables. I have found the Motion Pro cables to be lacking in comparison. I never go for a long ride without having a spare clutch and spare throttle cable. But that's just me.

On my shafty, the clutch cable snakes down between carbs 2 and 3 on airbox side and then hooks into that holder on engine. I'm unsure if E is the same- maybe someone got lazy and just threw on new cable without removing tank. Cable should not stick out like that!

Right, It already has a nick in the cable...can I cut it to length and attach? I doubt that as its a steel cable, or would I just buy another new clutch cable?

[tom203]

Is there an easy way to shorten the clutch cable? The PO has it rather long it sticks out on the left side of the bike, I thought it was suppose to attach between the 1st and 2nd carb...

On my shafty, the clutch cable snakes down between carbs 2 and 3 on airbox side and then hooks into that holder on engine. I'm unsure if E is the same- maybe someone got lazy and just threw on new cable without removing tank. Cable should not stick out like that!

Is there an easy way to shorten the clutch cable? The PO has it rather long it sticks out on the left side of the bike, I thought it was suppose to attach between the 1st and 2nd carb...

I can't tell from your pics- are the EPA blocking plugs still in on idle air mixture screws?

No, they are gone, air mixture screws are visible...

[tom203]

I can't tell from your pics- are the EPA blocking plugs still in on idle air mixture screws?

Looks like someone has had camcover off in past! "horrid" boots ? from here they don't look too bad, about like mine. At least they didn't disintegrate on you (yet).

Yeah they actually don't look to bad. I have to get down and take another look.

I am assuming someone has worked on the carbs before, as the rack bar is missing a screw....but who knows. The previous owner had only had the bike for about 2 months then sold it... so its hard telling what the PPO did...

Like I said, when I bought it my buddy rode it home about 1 hour ride. I didnt have my learning permit at that time, so it DID run!

[tom203]

Looks like someone has had camcover off in past! "horrid" boots ? from here they don't look too bad, about like mine. At least they didn't disintegrate on you (yet).

I got it! I honestly don't know how, but the GF helped by twisting the throttle and I worked to pry it out. <---- sounds funny,

Some pics of the carbs. and bike. Airbox is still on, I will pull that tomorrow, the boots on the air box look okay, the carb intake boots look horrid.

Roll the throttle wheel (where the carb-side cable end runs) upward to make as much slack as you can in the inner cable. Turn the round end so that the cable can fit through the slit on one side, and slide the end off to that side.

Oh, and make sure you hook the throttle back up before you push the carbs back in to the boots.

Well the carbs are pulled, sort of.

I am stuck with the throttle cable!!! How the hell do you get this damn thing off, took me all afternoon to loosen air box and pull carbs, now this!

Well the carbs are pulled, sort of.

I am stuck with the throttle cable!!! How the hell do you get this damn thing off, took me all afternoon to loosen air box and pull carbs, now this!

Yeah, the Z1 petcocks seldom fit exactly correct. Those washers have a name for them, I'll see if I can look it up.

Edit: they are called sealing washers. You need to get the metric size, and the fit needs to be quite snug.

[tom203]

Yeah, well what happened was that the petcock from Z1 is the wrong one. The nipples for fuel and vaccum are on the opposite side of the original. So I took the diaphram, seals, filter, etc. from the new one and put them in the old one I got from the new tank I bought.

The fuelcock is leaking where it connects to the tank. I don't think it sealed correctly. I may need some type of sealant, not sure which though.

There are two special washers (steel with rubber insert) than go under the screws holding petcock- otherwise fuel can leak down and past the screw heads. I'll assume you used a new oval "o-ring" between tank and petcock. I'm surprised the Z-1 petcock parts fit into original petcock.

[cowboyup3371]

There should be some rubber/plastic tabs that fit around the mounting screws. That helps seal the petcock through those holes.

Yeah, well what happened was that the petcock from Z1 is the wrong one. The nipples for fuel and vaccum are on the opposite side of the original. So I took the diaphram, seals, filter, etc. from the new one and put them in the old one I got from the new tank I bought.

The fuelcock is leaking where it connects to the tank. I don't think it sealed correctly. I may need some type of sealant, not sure which though.