stator winding wire connections

[DaveR]

Hello All,
The stator out of the 79 GS1000, the spool of #19 rewind wire and the high temp epoxy is on the bench. I've read the tutorials by Matchless and Nerobro several times. The sleeves have been removed and pictures taken. This wind pattern isn't like the diagram.

I was looking for one set of 3 winding wire ends to be connected together and tucked between posts and the other 3 on the next 3 adjacent posts attached to the 3 AC out wires. What I see are 3 AC out wires attached to the 3 wires (blue), 2 of them (red) on adjacent posts and the 3rd crimped to the ends of 3 connected (green) wires on adjacent posts several posts over. I cannot see the end of the 6th wire.

Is there a good reason for this? Should I just follow the rewind diagram by Matchless? This bike is new to me, it came with the fried stator,and I know nothing of its history.

Thanks, DaveR, perplexed on the prairie

[tom203]

I haven't read the Matchless tutorial , but I'd follow his layout rather than duplicate what's on the fried stator- someone might have screwed up. The 3 phase alternator I wound was big and the stator coils were individually wound and inserted in the slots and then tied together. To better understand what you are doing, you could use three colors of string and wind them on stator poles a few times to get the idea of where the actual wires will begin and end. This might make following the layout easier when you actually use the magnet wire.

[Steve]

Could be the difference between a Delta and a Wye winding.

I would follow a proven thing, go with Matchless' suggestion.

Just out of curiosity, why did you go with 19 gauge wiring?

I am under the impression that stock wiring is 18 gauge.
Using 19 will allow more turns, which will give you more voltage sooner,
but will also have a lower current-handling capacity.
Your R/R will have to work a bit harder to dump the extra voltage,
might not be what you are looking for.

.

[Guest]

Dave, When I look at the photo, it looks like the two wires marked with red are the same wires also marked with blue? I think when you start to unwind it, it is going to be the same as in matchless' tutorial. Also, I believe yours looks like it may be a later model with the step in the center bore, looks like the one on my '83 750. Obviously, it must fit and that is a good way to go as it is a bit thicker than the '79 design. I agree that 18awg would be better but with more iron than the original you will have a bit more copper per turn also. I think it will work. Just my 2 cents. Ray

[DaveR]

I think when you start to unwind it, it is going to be the same as in matchless' tutorial.

Good call Ray! I unwound it this morning and you are right - I had misread where the broken wires at the connection went and now with the appearance of the 6th wire end, it looks just like the Matchless diagram.

Steve - I read about #18 vs #19 and went with #19 because the original wire measured only .84mm without the coating. According to a search, #19 is .91 and #18 is 1.02mm so #19 would be closest to what was on there. The new wire measures .92. There might have been some faulty logic there. Just reread the part of the Matchless tutorial which suggested #19 and see that it is actually for the 1980 GS1000 037000-1560 stator. This one is a 037000-1390. I've been here long enough to respect your advice, so it is with some reservation I'll carry on with the #19, since I have it, even though it might not be the best choice. Maybe it would be a good idea to replace the 32 year old rectifier -regulator with one of those new-fangled FET RRs .

Thanks for the replies everyone. Off to the shop to clean up and epoxy repair the chips in the core insulation.