diode test??stator test

Collapse
X
Collapse
 
  • Page of 1
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
Previous template Next
  • ny_redneck04
    #1

    diode test??stator test

    i put the meter on the battery on the bike once it was running and it was charging at 16v.new battery and fully charged. so i did a diode test on the r/r

    black lead to ground and red to each wire i got all 0s,

    red lead to ground black to each wire i got 675,672,693,

    red lead to red out put wire and black lead to each wire i got all 0s,

    black lead to red output wire and red lead to wires i got 674,684,657

    even after reading it over and over off bass cliffs site i couldnt tell you if these are good or not any help would be appreciated.so i decided to test the stator at 4000 rpms and on each leg i got 79 and 81. so with the bike at appx. 4000rpms i tested the battery. it started out at 14.6v and jumped to 18v and held there so i shut it right off and unhooked the battery.am i in the market for both a stator and r/r??

    sorry i know this is a beaten horse but i am not a electrical type person even though i work with 13.5kv everyday lol
    thanks
    Pat
    Last edited by Guest; 03-04-2012, 07:38 PM. Reason: cause
    Tags: None
    • tom203
      Forum Guru
      Past Site Supporter
      • Aug 2010
      • 8925
      • Norway,Maine
      #2
      The diode test is just a way to test the rectifiers- making sure they alter the stator's AC output to DC and pass it off to the regulating portion of the R/R. Your diodes look normal and your AC test at 4k rpm is promising, since it's giving over 60 volts AC. The regulator output is too high, but this could be due to connections problems (corrosion, etc.), so clean all the connectors and follow the advice in the charging problem section. If this doesn't reduce the DC output to a maximum of 15 volts, then the R/R has failed to do its job and will need to be replaced.
      1981 gs650L

      "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

        Comment

        • Steve
          GS Whisperer
          • Jun 2005
          • 35924
          • southwest oHIo
          #3
          The tests you did look perfect.

          But, did you ever notice that the name of the device is R/R?

          What you tested is the R/, what has failed is the /R.

          The rectifier portion is great, the regulator part is highly suspect.

          However, it is typical to see readings like that if the ground wire to the R/R is not properly connected, so check that first.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

            Comment

            • ny_redneck04
              #4
              Thanks Steve and Tom.I thought i covered the grounds but i am gonna go back and double and triple check. I may even replace some of the spade connectors with newer ones to just cover all my basis.Again many thanks,
              Pat

                Comment

                Previous template Next
                Working...