GS Stator

[posplayr]

Yes, some folks are buying on old information. I think posplayr could edit the first section of his old thread with a update regarding the SH-775; this charging stuff seems overwhelming to some

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...31&postcount=1

I did some updates to the GS Charging thread and also look at the first post in this thread.

[bwanna]

I came across this writing and was wondering what you're thoughts were on what the person presents regarding series vs. shunt regulators and higher voltages being created in the stator. I'm not looking to debate the topic or play one against the other... I'm very interested in the science explanation.

Thanks

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/64617-650-charging-system.html

[posplayr]

I came across this writing and was wondering what you're thoughts were on what the person presents regarding series vs. shunt regulators and higher voltages being created in the stator. I'm not looking to debate the topic or play one against the other... I'm very interested in the science explanation.

Thanks

http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burg...ng-system.html

The plots tell all; unloaded the stator puts out about 80 volts per 5K RPM ; it goes up proportionately. It only stays lower when loaded. Remember this is the reason that you don't have to fuse the R/R.

So at the maximum voltage that the R/R might see is 160-200 v pp from leg to leg. That is certainly something that can be designed in by proper parts selection. The OP in that thread, is just getting up to speed on this and has apparently not looked at any wave forms, but yes he is correct. However typical stator and stator insulation don't seem to have an arch over problem.

Remember a typical marine grade wire is typically rated at 600V. You house wiring is 120V RMS so that is close to 170V peak to peak. The difference is you can load that house AC down with a 15 amp load on the typical house circuit before blowing a load. The alternator is probably only capable of 250 watts so even at 80VAC at 5K rpm if you pull more than .32 amps the voltage will drop.

One thing that has been notes is voltage irregularities at high RPM on a GSXR 600 at 16K RPM; Is it possible that it is a over voltage or arch over issue? Don't know.

[bwanna]

The plots tell all; unloaded the stator puts out about 80 volts per 5K RPM ; it goes up proportionately. It only stays lower when loaded. Remember this is the reason that you don't have to fuse the R/R.

So at the maximum voltage that the R/R might see is 160-200 v pp from leg to leg. That is certainly something that can be designed in by proper parts selection. The OP in that thread, is just getting up to speed on this and has apparently not looked at any wave forms, but yes he is correct. However typical stator and stator insulation don't seem to have an arch over problem.

Remember a typical marine grade wire is typically rated at 600V. You house wiring is 120V RMS so that is close to 170V peak to peak. The difference is you can load that house AC down with a 15 amp load on the typical house circuit before blowing a load. The alternator is probably only capable of 250 watts so even at 80VAC at 5K rpm if you pull more than .32 amps the voltage will drop.

One thing that has been notes is voltage irregularities at high RPM on a GSXR 600 at 16K RPM; Is it possible that it is a over voltage or arch over issue? Don't know.

Once again, thanks for the explanation! Occum's Razor seems to still hold true.

[posplayr]

Once again, thanks for the explanation! Occum's Razor seems to still hold true.

I had never heard of that but I have to agree there is a lot of "truth" in the razor. However being a technical person, the razor is really too non specific to be used in an technical setting.

In engineering , the best solution to a problem is the one that can be proved to be optimal for the conditions stated. So the razor reliance on the simplest explanation or proof or solution is not necessarily the best.

Having said that, in Systems Engineering there are formalized trade studies where several metrics are used to pick the "best solution". Often what happens is there are so many considerations and many of them less than pivotal, that ends up de-weighting the important stuff. A more careful (i.e. simpler) selection of the trade study criteria might have been in order.

Another area that stands out is in modern computer based controls and optimization. In the old days analytic solutions were developed for almost everything where the solution might have been programmed into the computer.

Nowadays we do big simulations and brute force optimizations that through much complexity arrive at optimized solutions. The older solutions might provide more insight, but to be analytically tractable had to have much of the real world complexity left out. The ability to add the complexity back in and still crunch the numbers provides for much of today's powerful adaptive system, performance.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occam's_razor

I would rather hold on to a quote attributed to Einstein "......Make it simple but not too simple".

Look what I just found.

http://blog.adamnash.com/2013/09/25/make-things-as-simple-as-possible-but-not-simpler/

[GSXR7ED]

The reason we don't have to fuse the R/R...interesting posplayr.

You guys are talking some intellectual stuff here...keep at it.



Ed

[dorkburger]

Maybe I should replace my electrex....

Me too...I purchased mine before I was fully aware of the intricacies of the subject. Posplayr, did I read somewhere that the cooler running stator caused by the series r/r, is enough to noticeably lower oil temp?

[posplayr]

Me too...I purchased mine before I was fully aware of the intricacies of the subject. Posplayr, did I read somewhere that the cooler running stator caused by the series r/r, is enough to noticeably lower oil temp?

If you have a big bike, you can tell the difference. Like 20-30 degF difference.

Cheff just found out.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=2009372#post2009372

[dorkburger]

If you have a big bike, you can tell the difference. Like 20-30 degF difference.

Cheff just found out.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...72#post2009372

I would consider that a significant amount. Thanks for the info. The bike in question is an 1150es.

[posplayr]

I would consider that a significant amount. Thanks for the info. The bike in question is an 1150es.

Yes and Yes I know.

[tkent02]

I'm thinking of drilling a hole in an old oil fill cap and JBing an oven thermometer or candy thermometer in it just to test this on my 550. Anyone got a better idea for an easy oil temp thermometer?

[posplayr]

I'm thinking of drilling a hole in an old oil fill cap and JBing an oven thermometer or candy thermometer in it just to test this on my 550. Anyone got a better idea for an easy oil temp thermometer?

Mine is easy it is already on it. You got a spare sensor and gauge? need one? I have a VDO brand new I'm not likely to use.

[tkent02]

Mine is easy it is already on it. You got a spare sensor and gauge? need one? I have a VDO brand new I'm not likely to use.

Sure, where does it go? The pressure switch area?

[tom203]

Get something like this and fish probe under starter motor cover down into stator area; select degree of stator cooking cooking you prefer -regular,lightly toasted or cajun style!

http://www.amazon.com/Maverick-OT-3BBQ-Kitchen-Thermometer-Black/dp/B000P895XA/ref=sr_1_6?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1393937996&sr=1-6&keywords=bbq+thermometer

[Roger P.]

Forgive the general nature of this post, but when perusing the SH775 spec sheet from Shindengen, they listed a larger 50A series regulator as being under development. I have read that this is the unit being installed on the new V-Strom 1000 (SH847AA). Does anyone know this for sure?