I bought a '79 GS-something bar switch that was in really rough shape, internally. I've seen some that had very poor continuity at the switches, mainly the horn. I've never seen one that had no continuity at all -- at least none that hadn't burned or something.
It turns out that I had to switch my meter to the 200k range to even measure horn button operation! Sheez....
I opened it up and photographed things along the way. I'm not sure I was thorough enough for some type of narrative for wanna-fixers in search of instructions, but perhaps there's hope.
Here's the photo series. You can click on the resolution you want at the bottom of the page. On ORIGINAL, they're pretty detailed.
There's some cheating involved, in that the filthy, ghastly-green parts disappear and return all shiny and gleaming. The clue was the Dremel tool and the buffer wheels sitting there.
Anyway, it works and feels almost new now, with resistances of no more than 0.2 ohms at any connection (with a meter that never reads less than 0.1 ohm). Ready for the GS1000 project! (Well, maybe some cosmetic attention first...).
It turns out that I had to switch my meter to the 200k range to even measure horn button operation! Sheez....
I opened it up and photographed things along the way. I'm not sure I was thorough enough for some type of narrative for wanna-fixers in search of instructions, but perhaps there's hope.
Here's the photo series. You can click on the resolution you want at the bottom of the page. On ORIGINAL, they're pretty detailed.
There's some cheating involved, in that the filthy, ghastly-green parts disappear and return all shiny and gleaming. The clue was the Dremel tool and the buffer wheels sitting there.
Anyway, it works and feels almost new now, with resistances of no more than 0.2 ohms at any connection (with a meter that never reads less than 0.1 ohm). Ready for the GS1000 project! (Well, maybe some cosmetic attention first...).
Comment