Just noticed: Wires getting HOT @ stator.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I would suggest eliminating the separate regulator and rectifier and procuring a more modern, integrated r/r unit (there's a list on my website to help your search for a new/used unit on eBay), and wire it in according to this diagram.



Eliminate the useless loop of wire to the handlebars and wire the three stator output wires directly to the r/r input wires as above. Have a look at the stator and r/r replacement and testing guides on my little website. They might help you.

Note: To further eliminate sources of corrosion and resistance, wire the ground (usually green) from the r/r directly to the battery negative. You can also wire the output of the r/r (usually red) directly to the battery positive through an inline 15 amp fuse. Also note that on a lot of modern r/r units there is a "sense" wire (usually black) that must be connected to a switched 12v source. This monitors the r/r output so that it doesn't produce too much voltage.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[mike_of_bbg]

Well at least he doesn't have a $400 (or simply unobtainable) igniter to blow up...

Danny,
Unless you are dirt poor or something I'd get a good used FET R/R off ebay and bring your charging system up to date. The Suzuki components were questionable when new, and now they are 35 years old.

[Steve]

Thank you Steve.

I want to Diode test the regulator/rectifier.

...

I have soldered ALL 3 stator wires, directly to their respective connections... yellow from rectifier yellow from harness directly to yellow... then white/blue to white/blue and white/green to white/red.

So it's no longer a matter of connectors going forward.

OK, you want to do a diode test. You will need to set your meter down for a few minutes while you UNSOLDER YOUR CONNECTIONS.

Sorry about that, but the diode test has to be done without the stator attached.

I know the logic behind soldering the connections, but there is ALWAYS a reason that you don't really want to make them permanent, so I will never recommend soldering them. Have never done it to any of mine, do not see it happening to any of them in the forseeable future.

When you get your wires unsoldered, come back, we'll talk.

.

[DannyMotor]

Unsoldered... next.

This may all be for not. I think I'm going to scour ebay for a shindengen. sigh...

[JayWB]

The stator generates AC voltage on three phases. Those are the three wires coming out of the left side of the engine, yellow on stock stators. Use the meter's AC function to measure them.

This AC voltage is fed to the rectifier/regulator. Once rectified it's no longer AC, it's DC now. The regulator portion of this device is supposed to manage the voltage (regulate it) to a manageable13.5 to 14.5 volts to charge the battery. Use your meter's DC function to measure this.

From the stator to the R/R is AC.
Output of R/R to the rest of the bike is DC.

[Crazy_Russian]

i just went thru the same PITA. here is my http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=190644

i pulled the harness off the bike, cleaned every single connector and completely re-sleeved it, should be good for another decade or two

[DannyMotor]

The stator generates AC voltage on three phases. Those are the three wires coming out of the left side of the engine, yellow on stock stators. Use the meter's AC function to measure them.

This AC voltage is fed to the rectifier/regulator. Once rectified it's no longer AC, it's DC now. The regulator portion of this device is supposed to manage the voltage (regulate it) to a manageable13.5 to 14.5 volts to charge the battery. Use your meter's DC function to measure this.

From the stator to the R/R is AC.
Output of R/R to the rest of the bike is DC.

I'm well aware of how it works... the main questions base around what settings to use in the meter. Everything is so general but looking at the tool I have so many settings...

VOLTS: 600, 200, 20, 2, 200m
AMPS: 20m, 200m, 10
BATT: 1.5v, 9v, 12v
OHMS: 20M, 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200

all of which give odd readings and inconsistency.

i just went thru the same PITA. here is my http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=190644

i pulled the harness off the bike, cleaned every single connector and completely re-sleeved it, should be good for another decade or two

Did you install a shindengen r/r? I cleaned and or replaced all my connections as well, i only noticed it was hot because it melted the new boots on the new connectors.

[Crazy_Russian]

I'm not shure on what type of R/R it is, and i haven't head a chance to test it on a long trip yet (waiting for my intake boots to show up) i was only able to run it for about 20 min at a time. so far so good, battery is charging the way its supposed to, nothing is burning up and/or melting. i should have some more news by the end of next week, unless the boots show up here before the weekend.
what did you use to clean the connectors?

Did you install a shindengen r/r? I cleaned and or replaced all my connections as well, i only noticed it was hot because it melted the new boots on the new connectors.

[DannyMotor]

what did you use to clean the connectors?

I soaked the ones that were in good condition in vinegar over-night... then took a wire brush and a gun-cleaning barrel brush to the female connectors... then sprayed them all with Permatex electrical cleaner, let them dry and coated everything with di-electric grease.

[JayWB]

I'm well aware of how it works... the main questions base around what settings to use in the meter. Everything is so general but looking at the tool I have so many settings...

VOLTS: 600, 200, 20, 2, 200m
AMPS: 20m, 200m, 10
BATT: 1.5v, 9v, 12v
OHMS: 20M, 2M, 200k, 20k, 2k, 200

all of which give odd readings and inconsistency.

You should be measuring somewhere around 80 volts AC from the stator. Use the most appropriate scale on the meter, which in your case would be 200 VAC.

You're also going to be measuring approximately 12 or so volts DC from the regulator. Again, use the appropriate scale, in your case 20 volts DC.

For resistance use the lowest scale that gives you a reading, which when reading continuity in the stator will be 200 ohms.

[DannyMotor]

Thanks Jay!

I'm also springing for this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/250926254135...=p5197.c0.m619

[DannyMotor]

R/R has been ordered... itll be here Tuesday.

[DannyMotor]

Got the r/r installed. Fired right up. Lights and the spark is nearly twice as bright. Thanks for all the help guys....

[DannyMotor]