Bad Stator - confirm?

[allojohn]

I just checked the legs to ground voltage at idle and got around 8 volts on each.

[JayWB]

I just checked the legs to ground voltage at idle and got around 8 volts on each.

That's not at all consistent with the other results you've posted.

You know you have to use the AC scale to read the stator, and the DC scale to read the battery and output of the regulator, right?

Not trying to insult you, but it looks to me that you're trying to read the stator voltage using the DC scale of your meter.

[allojohn]

That's not at all consistent with the other results you've posted.

You know you have to use the AC scale to read the stator, and the DC scale to read the battery and output of the regulator, right?

Not trying to insult you, but it looks to me that you're trying to read the stator voltage using the DC scale of your meter.

I certainly think I was using AC voltage. My meter has the ~ symbol when in AC mode. I'm disregarding earlier tests as bullsh!t.

Don't worry about insulting me - I know I'm a dumba$$ as far as this stuff goes. I just don't want to replace the stator and find it's not the problem.

[allojohn]

Sorry they should all be publicly shared now. I just open this as a new account to start restoring files that were previously lost.

Thanks - got it.

I am confused though, if I keep the R/R connected how can I get the meter in there? All my connections are insulated spades.

[posplayr]

I just checked the legs to ground voltage at idle and got around 8 volts on each.

Was that with R/R disconnected? What RPM?

If you don't have bad voltage drops in the Revised Phase A tests it is looking more like a bad stator.

[allojohn]

Was that with R/R disconnected? What RPM?

Yep, R/R disconnected and at idle (1,100 rpm).

If you don't have bad voltage drops in the Revised Phase A tests it is looking more like a bad stator.

In Revised Phase A tests is the red from the R/R disconnected?

[posplayr]

Yep, R/R disconnected and at idle (1,100 rpm).

OK 8 volts seems pretty high considering you are at idle, Jury is still out on those stator tests

In Revised Phase A tests is the red from the R/R disconnected?

No it is NOT disconnected. All connections should be as you intend to run it. You are measuring the amount of voltage drop there is in the conection when supplying maximum power.

[allojohn]

Just to add to the confusion I turned the headlight off and and now get 13.80 @ 2,500 rpm. and 14.00 @ 5,000 rpm.

My head is spinning - I'm going for a cup of tea........

[posplayr]

Just to add to the confusion I turned the headlight off and and now get 13.80 @ 2,500 rpm. and 14.00 @ 5,000 rpm.

My head is spinning - I'm going for a cup of tea........

We it does sound like it is charging pretty well. Wonder what is going on with the headlight? Did you disconnect the headlamp loop? In other words the 3 stator wires go directly to the R/R.

[allojohn]

We it does sound like it is charging pretty well. Wonder what is going on with the headlight? Did you disconnect the headlamp loop? In other words the 3 stator wires go directly to the R/R.

Yes Sir, headlamp loop removed!

[JayWB]

Your voltage readings, both AC and DC, seem to change every time you test them.

It's hard to get a read on what's going on when everything changes all the time. I think the first thing I'd do if I were you would be to remove the R/R ground, clean it thoroughly, and connect it DIRECTLY to the battery negative, not to the frame or engine.

If that doesn't resolve your charging problem I'd build a dummy load out of light bulbs, disconnect the R/R from the stator and plug the dummy load in. That way you can see once and for all if the stator is operating normally.

[posplayr]

Yes Sir, headlamp loop removed!

OK So I assume your lights are also bright when you have them on?




I assume also that you have followed the guidance for cleaning and connecting your grounds. You have a wire from

• • R/R(-) to battery
  • R/R(-) to frame

Have you measured the Phase A results?


I am starting to suspect the stator again, but want to confirm the voltages from the Phase A tests. Focus on those tests now. Do the tests with the headlamp OFF.


This is a bit of a guess right now but it could be the stator windings are OK when you don't have the headlamp on, but when you add that additional load the extra current causes the winding to break down. It is intermittent/marginal right now but will eventually fail hard.

[allojohn]

Your voltage readings, both AC and DC, seem to change every time you test them.

I said I wasn't very good at this.

I think the first thing I'd do if I were you would be to remove the R/R ground, clean it thoroughly, and connect it DIRECTLY to the battery negative, not to the frame or engine.

Yep, already done that.

In my first post I mentioned I installed a voltmeter on the dash. I think I'll remove it to see if that has caused my problems. I'm in the headlight bucket now......

[allojohn]

I disconnected the voltmeter on my dash and did the "quick test" again, headlamp off and headlamp on.

Headlamp off

Key off - 12.48
Key on - 12.05
Idle - 12.55
2,500 - 13.80
5,000 - 13.95
Key off - 12.90

Headlamp on

Key off - 12.73
Key on - 12.00
Idle - 12.14
2,500 - 12.45
5,000 - 12.55
Key off - 12.38

I've had enough for today, I'll take another look later in the week.

Thanks for your help and patience guys, it is much appreciated.

[allojohn]

OK So I assume your lights are also bright when you have them on?

Yes.

I assume also that you have followed the guidance for cleaning and connecting your grounds. You have a wire from

• • R/R(-) to battery
  • R/R(-) to frame
  
  

Yes.

Have you measured the Phase A results?

No. But I will later.

Thanks man - you are a great help!