Is this a normal size for a R/R (pic)

[Riding Again]

You need to clean and check all electrical connections. Several on this site have melted connectors when the regulator malfunctions.

With such a low change in output, it is most likely a stator problem, but you won't get very reliable test results with dirty connections.

These are the best fix-it/trouble-shooting guides for your situation.

Make sure the battery is charged before doing any checking, then start here. Print a copy of the procedure and write down the results on each section so when you come back to the forum, you know exactly what you did and what the results were.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192

If you don't know where to go from there, post the results back up with what you did/results were and others can help. Otherwise go here and print and write again.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=152769&highlight=charging+system+health

Posplayr knows his stuff. Again, if you don't know what the results mean, post them up.

I believe you have a damaged stator, but go through the tests to make sure.

[Tukn20s]

I guess I should have posted this in my other thread about testing/fixing the electrical system but too late now.

I went back through and retested the stator and new r/r. The stator checks out fine. I am getting 1.5 ohms between each leg with the bike off and the 75+ ac volts with the bike running under throttle. The r/r didn't check out exaclty as described in the troubleshooting test but maybe it's because its a different brand. The battery was purchased a week ago and is brand new. 95% of the wiring has been redone with new connectors. I did double check them and everything seems fine as far as that goes.

So here is what I cam up with after rechecking everything. Again with the bike running the voltage remains under 13 volts at any rpm. However, when I check the output(red wire) from the r/r it is producing 13.5 volts at idle and 14+ under throttle as it should be. So that appears to be working properly. But for some reason, when connected to the battery it's only getting the 12.xx volts. The connection from the battery to the r/r checks out fine, but to be sure I ran a new lead from the r/r to the battery. Same results....13.5 volts disconnected from the battery and 12.5 connected. So does anyone know what might be the problem because I am lost?

Tom...the r/r is a five wire unit and I have not ran across any numbers on it.

[tom203]

The R/R seems to be at fault- unloaded it's OK, but connected to battery (and asked to produce) it falls on its face. You said your old R/R was overcharging which means your stator was/is producing, so try a different R/R.

[Tukn20s]

So I received a refund on the R/R and ordered another from rmstator. I hooked up the three stator wires and ground, and fired up the bike. I am only getting .84 volts at any rpm range. Also, I know the r/r gets warm but this one was too hot to touch within a minute (not sure if this is normal).

Needless to say, I am very frustrated right now. Not sure if I am doing something wrong or just having bad luck. I rechecked the stator and it is still working fine. Does anyone have and thoughts, suggestions, comments?

As for rmstator....I ordered from them because it was one of the companies listed so I assumed it was a safe bet. However, after doing some research I see they don't have the best reviews around here. I hope I didn't screw up.

There is a big bike show this weekend that I am 'hoping' to attend, so I need to get the bike going in the next two days. I was thinking of picking up a used r/r for temporary use from a local metric bike yard. Any suggestions on what would be a simple swap? The bikes available are mostly 70's-80's

[kdo58]

this what I have on my bike, and it works great

http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-06-HONDA-CBR-600-RR-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-STOCK-OEM-/300730453181?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4604ee8cbd

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Look in the electrical section of my website for a list of compatible r/r units. You should be able to find one of the Shindengen units on eBay for pretty cheap. The last one I bought was less than $20.

5, 6, even 7 wire units can work just fine as long as you wire them properly. See the diagram I posted earlier. The stator gets wired directly to the r/r unit. The output of the r/r connects directly to the positive terminal of the battery through a 15 amp fuse. The r/r ground wire gets connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery. If there is a "sense" wire, connect it to a switched 12v source.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff