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spark plugs - are they telling me anything ?

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  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by spyug View Post
    I wondering about this too. Too much fuel is going to cause it to idle higher anyway not die off. At certain throttle positions it could cause it to bog until the excess clears but as the idle dies, you can blip it and it picks up again. That's telling me it needs more gas or possibly less air. That's what made me think it was not jetted sufficiently to compensate for the freer flowing pipe.

    Could you make it clearer for us please.

    Cheers,
    spyug
    Actually, you have it backwards, spyug. Think about what the engine does when there is an air leak. It idles higher, not lower. Most likely 2.5 is too rich, which is why I wanted to know about the pilot jets. They have been changed to a larger jet, which I found unusual for just a pipe. Usually with just a pipe you just richen the circuit with the screw, not a jet. But we can work with these, NP.

    Leave a comment:


  • spyug
    Guest replied
    but it's an air screw, how does that affect fuel ?

    but if it's getting too much fuel, how does that cause it to stall out ?
    I wondering about this too. Too much fuel is going to cause it to idle higher anyway not die off. At certain throttle positions it could cause it to bog until the excess clears but as the idle dies, you can blip it and it picks up again. That's telling me it needs more gas or possibly less air. That's what made me think it was not jetted sufficiently to compensate for the freer flowing pipe.

    Could you make it clearer for us please.

    Cheers,
    spyug

    Leave a comment:


  • GateKeeper
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
    Your Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) needs to be correct for all the various modes. I cheat and use a wideband (the scientific method) but GSR members get close enough using manual methods, which sees to be "good enough".
    once I have them back in, I will await your instructions on how to proceed

    Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
    GK, we all LOVE what you have done with that bike and really want to hear of it running around all over the place.

    Fingers crossed.

    Eric
    Thanks,,,,it was running around, until it started dying out on me....

    Originally posted by the schwartz View Post
    still wanna sell that bike?

    GOOD LUCK my man, hope this nails it. someday soon i'm going to actually understand how everything in the carburetor works together. sounds like you're getting some great lessons.
    not out of the woods yet...

    it still might get a for sale sign.....

    lessons are always a good thing, one can never learn too much....

    .

    Leave a comment:


  • BigD_83
    replied
    Originally posted by GateKeeper View Post
    Thanks...

    but it's an air screw, how does that affect fuel ?

    Cheers
    Aah,

    but it is NOT an air screw, at least not like an air pilot. It is an air/fuel mix screw. By adjusting it out, you are dumping a higher volume of FUEL into the combustion chamber.

    Leave a comment:


  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Your synch is adjusted using the screw/lock nut on your throttle bar, it has nothing to do with what we are going to do. That will be fine, thanks for the offer spyug.

    Leave a comment:


  • shwaz
    Guest replied
    still wanna sell that bike?

    GOOD LUCK my man, hope this nails it. someday soon i'm going to actually understand how everything in the carburetor works together. sounds like you're getting some great lessons.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7981GS
    Guest replied
    GK, we all LOVE what you have done with that bike and really want to hear of it running around all over the place.

    Fingers crossed.

    Eric

    Leave a comment:


  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Your Air to Fuel Ratio (AFR) needs to be correct for all the various modes. I cheat and use a wideband (the scientific method) but GSR members get close enough using manual methods, which sees to be "good enough".

    Leave a comment:


  • GateKeeper
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
    I'll walk you through it, don't worry.
    Thanks...

    Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
    How many times last night did I allude to extra fuel sneaking in when it was not needed?

    Eric
    but it's an air screw, how does that affect fuel ?

    but if it's getting too much fuel, how does that cause it to stall out ?

    ahhh never mind, I guess too much fuel not enough air, makes for a bad combination, somehow or another



    so I will button everything back up, and post back here once carbs are back in...


    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • 7981GS
    Guest replied
    How many times last night did I allude to extra fuel sneaking in when it was not needed?

    Eric

    Leave a comment:


  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by GateKeeper View Post
    OK....

    I can install them back no problem, well it's a pain but I will put them back, going to check the needles first, just to make sure...

    should I then use the high idle method once they are back in ?

    .
    I'll walk you through it, don't worry.

    Leave a comment:


  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
    Hold on!
    That might be the cause of it loading up at stop lights.
    Your carbs are too much of a pain to get out and install or I might suggest just installing them again and adjusting the fuel screws.

    Eric
    That is exactly where we are going Eric. That sure took a while to get to, but we can get you back on the road now that we know that small bit of information.

    Leave a comment:


  • GateKeeper
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by 7981GS View Post
    Hold on!
    That might be the cause of it loading up at stop lights.
    Your carbs are too much of a pain to get out and install or I might suggest just installing them again and adjusting the fuel screws.

    Eric
    OK....

    I can install them back no problem, well it's a pain but I will put them back, going to check the needles first, just to make sure...

    should I then use the high idle method once they are back in ?

    Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
    Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding!!!!!!!!!!
    We may have a winner, folks.
    Let's check the float levels and needles.
    Provide us with the measurements and slap them puppies together and put them back on.
    2.5 is the starting point, not the ending. Whew, that took a while to get to.
    Let us know when everything is back together. You will need to have access to all the air screws, I always do it with the tank off.
    Well hopefully I can get it all back together tonight at some point, being that nothing was drastically changed the sync should still be OK ?, but I guess if we play with the air screws it will need to be redone ?

    .


    .
    Last edited by Guest; 08-31-2012, 11:33 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • koolaid_kid
    Guest replied
    Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding Ding!!!!!!!!!!
    We may have a winner, folks.
    Let's check the float levels and needles.
    Provide us with the measurements and slap them puppies together and put them back on.
    2.5 is the starting point, not the ending. Whew, that took a while to get to.
    Let us know when everything is back together. You will need to have access to all the air screws, I always do it with the tank off.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7981GS
    Guest replied
    Originally posted by GateKeeper View Post
    unless I misread, I thought this was the correct setting as per the rebuild tutorials ? am I wrong ?
    I just left them at 2.5...
    Hold on!
    That might be the cause of it loading up at stop lights.
    Your carbs are too much of a pain to get out and install or I might suggest just installing them again and adjusting the fuel screws.

    Eric

    Leave a comment:

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