In-line fuses in the lunchbox?

[Sojourner]

My GS1100ET has a problem with the tail light and brake light in that neither one works. Obviously a problem! So I whipped out the multimeter and started poking and prodding. Steve mentioned that the harness brings it all up to the lunchbox (square headlight fairing thing), so I took out the headlight and had a look around. I was surprised to find two inline fuses since I didn't see them on the wiring diagram (as best I can read that thing).

One is inline to the brown wire and takes a "250V 3A" glass fuse that's about 3/4" long. The other is about 1/2", splits the white wire, and is "7A". Ok, so a 3 amp fuse and a 7 amp fuse- no biggie. HOWEVER, I noticed that the tail lamp and brake lamp idiot lights come on/go off if I wiggle the brown or the white (mainly a push/pull oriented wiggle). If I wiggle it just right and leave it, the idiot light flips off and stay off. When the tail lamp idiot light flips off, then tail lamp lights up. Unfortunately even with both wiggled into position and the idiot lights off, the brake lamp still doesn't light up when either the front or rear brake is actuated.

So to review- two inline fuse holders discovered in the lunchbox (one on the brown and one on the white). When wiggled correctly, the warning/idiot lights on the instrument cluster diagram go out (a good thing). When the tail lamp warning light flips off, the tail light comes on. When the brake lamp flips off however, no illumination when the brakes are applied.

Any thoughts aside from replacing the fuses? I took them out and the ends are a bit corroded. Given they're so cheap, it can't hurt. Also- I just replaced the tail/brake combo bulb (1157) with a fresh bulb. Are these inline fuse holders stock? If not, any good reason for a PO to put them in there?

Thanks!

[koolaid_kid]

Replace them with quality waterproof fuse holders using ATO or mini fuses. Readily available at your local auto parts.

[Sojourner]

Could I use AT instead of AG?

[koolaid_kid]

If those are the smaller ones, sure.

[Sojourner]

Correct me if I'm wrong since I'm basing it all on a quick Google search, but aren't AT's the more modern blade type fuses and the AG's (All Glass) the cylinder shaped ones? I planning on redoing the stock fuse block and moving over to bladed fuses anyway. If I have to replace what's in the lunchbox, might as well be blades I figure.

*OR*

Since they're obviously not stock, could I just crimp on some bullet connectors and go about my merry way?

[koolaid_kid]

First, you want the blade fuses. Second, they come in 2 sizes. The ATO is the larger of the 2. You can use the mini also. In no shape or form do you want glass fuses.
If you debug the harness and find they are not needed you can remove them. Someone had a reason to put them there; you need to figure out why.

[MAJikMARCer]

Blade Fuse Types



From Wiki page

[Sojourner]

The lettering is what is confusing the situation. From what I've read AG = "All Glass" whereas the bladed fuses are AT ("American Type"). The third letter indicates the upper amperage limit based on sizing.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_does_AGC_mean_on_a_fuse

http://www.bcae1.com/fuses.htm (about 2/3's of the way down).

As for why a PO put them there? I haven't the foggiest. Anyone have an ideas?

[Who Dat?]

As for why a PO put them there? I haven't the foggiest. Anyone have an ideas?

My guess is that the previous owner was more clueless than you are.

[loud et]

My guess is that the previous owner was more clueless than you are.

Really? Way to try and help a new guy out.
So far all your posts are basically a bit insulting or cocky........guys that start that **** get kicked off of here.
Maybe you know that already from.....experience?
Maybe you should introduce yourself in the GS Owners section and put up your location, and some pics of your bike.

[Who Dat?]

No problem, loud et, it is quite possible that I know "sojourner" and happen to know that he is a frickin' GENIUS.
(Yes, I really have met him.)

That would make NEARLY EVERYONE "more clueless" than him. (That might also include YOU.)

"All my posts" are insulting or cocky? That was my third one, hardly enough to judge someone, don't you think?

"Kicked off of here"? Not me.

Have thought of the introduction, but don't need it yet, my location is already listed, you don't want to see my bikes.

[koolaid_kid]

Corrected my mistake on the nomenclature, you do want the ATO or mini fuses. (Must have been before my first six pack of the morning . )
FWIW, stock GS fuse blocks use ATO fuses, certain supplementary fuse blocks, such as the Eastern Beaver, use the minis. Both work just as well.

Having clarified my boo-boo (technical term) you clearly need to go through your wiring harness stem to stern. Something is not kosher there and you will want to figure out exactly what you are dealing with and return it to good condition. BassCliff has color-coded wiring diagrams for many models on his site. Print one out, have it enlarged to 11x17 so you can read the darn thing, and go to town. I find some thin highlighters good for tracing the various wiring circuits.

[koolaid_kid]

Old_skool, no one uses italics on this site.

[Steve]

I copied/pasted something and couldn't get out of the italics after that

It's easy enough to highlight the text after you have entered it, or just look to see if the I in the upper left corner of your "enter text" box is highlited, then either click on it to turn it off or hold your CTRL key and press I.

.

[koolaid_kid]

old_skool, I had this site do something similar to me before. The only way I found to fix it was to exit the site and then re-enter. Clearly a bug, but seldom encountered. (insert smiley shrug here)