Brake light always on - 1979 GS850

It was our pleasure

[Steve]

All it usually takes is the proper tools and a systematic approach.

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Well, well...

After all your guys' help, I can say that changing out the fuse fixed the problem!

THANK YOU!!

So, for now, all is good and I think it's ready to ride again (had to fix the front brakes - whole other issue in another thread) and then this, so it's been out of commission for awhile.

Now I just gotta wait for the rain to quit!

Thanks again Steve and everyone else

Since your bike is a 79, chances are the fuse block is original? I had to install a new one on my bike about mmmm 12 years ago. 3 of the fuse connections had gotten so loose they would not make contact at times when riding. You can imagine the problems that caused. Found it by using that handy dandy lite circuit tester.

Good to know! I think it is original. The clips seem to be in good shape (holding the fuses very tightly) but will check the back as well if the fuse replacement doesn't solve the problem.

Thanks Steve, Cowyboyup, and Mr. Bill for all your help!! Will keep you posted on how the fuse replacement goes.

Since your bike is a 79, chances are the fuse block is original? I had to install a new one on my bike about mmmm 12 years ago. 3 of the fuse connections had gotten so loose they would not make contact at times when riding. You can imagine the problems that caused. Found it by using that handy dandy lite circuit tester.

[Steve]

Yes, horn hasn't worked for quite some time actually...

But, I just tested the fuses and all of them lit up, both sides, except for the third one down labeled signal... only one side lit up, the other did not.

So, replace the fuse and see if we're good??

Sounds good to me.

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No, the next thing is to check the source.

Use your new handy-dandy test light to check the fuses. Looking at a wiring diagram for your bike, it appears that there are four fuses in the block. One will have power even when the key is OFF, that is your MAIN fuse. The one next to it will be the LIGHTS fuse, then the SIGNALS fuse, then the IGNITION fuse. Turn the key ON, check both sides of each fuse to make sure there is power.

With your brake light not working and your turn signals not working, there is a possibility that your horn does not work, either, and all of them are powered by the SIGNALS fuse.

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Yes, horn hasn't worked for quite some time actually...

But, I just tested the fuses and all of them lit up, both sides, except for the third one down labeled signal... only one side lit up, the other did not.

So, replace the fuse and see if we're good??

[Steve]

No, the next thing is to check the source.

Use your new handy-dandy test light to check the fuses. Looking at a wiring diagram for your bike, it appears that there are four fuses in the block. One will have power even when the key is OFF, that is your MAIN fuse. The one next to it will be the LIGHTS fuse, then the SIGNALS fuse, then the IGNITION fuse. Turn the key ON, check both sides of each fuse to make sure there is power.

With your brake light not working and your turn signals not working, there is a possibility that your horn does not work, either, and all of them are powered by the SIGNALS fuse.

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Do you have a test light or a voltmeter? Either will work, but a test light is easier and quicker. Clip the ground wire for the test light to the battery negative or a good chassis ground. Put the point of the probe in the white connector's brown wire. Turn the ignition key ON, you should have power. If not, check your other lights to see if they are working. If they are, your fuse is OK, so the problem will be between the ignition key and the tail light.

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Ok... so tested the connector coming from the bike (not the tail light) and, not too surprisingly I guess, the tail light lit the test light up, and the brake (white) did not...



Just for kicks, I also tested the turn signal bullet connectors, and no power there:



Not sure if that means anything in this same situation or not, or if it's completely separate. Similar to the brake light though, it was working not too long ago, and, from no conceivable changes from me, no longer works...

I also tested the front brake connector at the front (near the headlight) and rear connectors and no power there either.

So... does this mean the next thing is just pulling the tape from the wires and re-wiring??

[Steve]

That is a great tool.

There are times that you will need a voltmeter, too, but in this case, you really only need to know if you have power or not, so a light coming ON (or not) is really much quicker and easier. I probably use my test light much more often than my meter.

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So, I bought a volt circuit tester last night (http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html) and hoping to get some time to test the connectors. I don't even have all the right tools!!

Hopefully I can locate the problem...

Now you be cooking....

So, I bought a volt circuit tester last night (http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html) and hoping to get some time to test the connectors. I don't even have all the right tools!!

Hopefully I can locate the problem...

Very true, mrbill, but not everybody is as savvy about taming all the mysterious smoke that travels through those wires.

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Guess I'm gifted But when it comes to painting my bike I'm I could use a volunteer, I have all the stuff ready lol.

[Steve]

Very true, mrbill, but not everybody is as savvy about taming all the mysterious smoke that travels through those wires.

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By this time I would have rewired the connections. I would have got out my test lite and match the wires to its corresponding lite function. Just like you would for a trailer connection.