Hardwiring the Stator to the regulator on a compufire setup?

[Doug B.]

I am getting a 1985 GS550L ready for spring, and when I got it the battery was boiled practically dry. The bike is low mileage and I presume the stator is still ok, but I'm going to replace the regulator with a series unit from compufire, just to be done with it.

I have seriously considered hardwiring the connections from the stator to the regulator, I have a nice hot soldering station and plenty of good shrink tube, it would eliminate any bad connection issues, and I don't forsee myself wanting to unhook it except for replacement, when it would be no big deal to just cut and resolder..

Any reason this is a bad idea? Seems to me like as far as function goes it would be ideal? I wouldn't do much else this way, being able to unplug stuff is sometimes good, I just want as bomb proof an electrical system as I can have.. nothing sucks worse than getting stranded by preventable stuff hundreds of miles from home.

[tkent02]

Sounds like a good idea to me, I might add test points so you can test the stator without cutting into any of your wiring.

[posplayr]

Sounds like a good idea to me, I might add test points so you can test the stator without cutting into any of your wiring.

If the shrink tubing is not too long you should be able to slip a probe tip under the shrink tubing.

I prefer to solder as it reduces the possibility of corrosion induced resistance in connections between r/r , battery and stator. Make sure to come up with a good ground scheme . Single point is best.

[JEEPRUSTY]

I soldered mine and in spite of my clumsy lack of skill its better than stock.
I found that a slimy patina had built up on the bullet connectors that no cleaning could remove short of sanding.

Anyways I am sure the only reason bullet connectors get used is to facilitate the production of the bike.

Having had two OEM reg/rect units blow up on me I am happy with the confidence the Compufire brought me.

[Doug B.]

Sounds like the plan then.

I have seen corroded connectors on bikes like that, by the time you clean em they don't ever fit tight again..

Luckily this bike has been pampered and the harness looks great, I'll put some dialectric grease in the connections that need it, and with some continued pampering maybe I won't have to deal with insulated connections anytime soon.

I have a cool little jig that makes butting wires super easy, that's the hardest part, holding the wires in position while joining them.

I read all the info here about the shindengen and the compufire, but the series shindengen isn't available significantly cheaper than the compufire, and in fact with a 10% ebay coupon the compufire ended up costing $165.00 through 'ridersneeds'..

I'm excited, I love projects..

[OldVet66]

Make sure you leave extra wire if you have to remove it later, or use waterproof connectors. I used single connectors to eliminate heat buildup and soldered the 10 AWG wire from the CompuFire to the connector because of the wire size difference. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink