Speedometer Calibration ?? Painted Housing??

[cowboyup3371]

There are two screws on the back that will release the display and gear from the holder. Post up a picture of where you are and maybe one of us will help.

If you haven't removed the glass yet, be very careful as it's easy to crack. Trust me, I'm on my second set of clocks due to that.

[tkent02]

The different models had different speedos, I haven't worked on a 1000E speedo in a while.

Good luck!

[cowboyup3371]

Try turning that trip knob to the right, looking for a screw down inside of it, or pulling straight out on it.

[Agemax]

the trip nob has a small screw holding it in, through the centre

[tkent02]

It's the spindle in the way, not the knob.

[Gregory]

here are three pics.

the front: is the needle in the right place for zero mph?




The back with screws removed:




A cool tool i found that helped with bezel removal:

[rustybronco]

I've worked on several sets of those speedometers. Remove the bezel by wrapping several layers of masking tape around the plastic housing next to the bezel, you can slowly start prying it open in stages, say a third of the way open per each revolution. As someone said, there is a small screw in the center of the odometer knob, but more importantly there is a brass extension between speedometer and that knob, which is removable by holding the small stub sticking out of the speedometer and unscrewing it. In order to do that, you must first remove the speed indicator needle by CAREFULLY removing it using two levers resting on the two screws and prying the needle off it's shaft, then it's a simple matter to remove the two small screws and lifting off the face. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...52&postcount=1

End of part one.

Part two I will help you add a bit of tension to the hair spring and hopefully that will bring down the error rate in your indicated reading.

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1570322&postcount=142

[Gregory]

[QUOTE=rustybronco;1785460]As someone said, there is a small screw in the center of the odometer knob, but more importantly there is a brass extension between speedometer and that knob, which is removable by holding the small stub sticking out of the speedometer and unscrewing it. [QUOTE]

Much appreciated. I have the needle off. actually used two small flathead screwdrivers.

I guess I am not able to comprehend how to get the brass odometer shaft out. I tried holding the rod that it comes out from with needle nose pliers, but it just still rolls the odometer numbers around and does not come loose.

I do notice that there is a cotter pin on the opposite side...but I am skeered to remove it because it involves the numbers & gears.

[rustybronco]

Hold the metal shaft in the speedometer and turn the brass shaft and knob the opposite way used to reset the odometer. It WILL unscrew.

[rustybronco]

Part two...

After you have the internals removed you will notice a 'hair' spring attached to the pivot shaft. If it has surface rust on it, more than likely it has been weakened by it- allowing the needle to read higher. All you can do at that point is to take a small artist brush, lightly dip in an oil such as 3-in-1 and LIGHTLY touch the brush on the hair spring - making sure the complete spring is LIGHTLY coated with oil. All you are trying to accomplish is to protect the spring from further rusting and add a bit of resistance in the form of surface tension. If the spring is very rusty, then all you can do is replace the speedometer. Hopefully it's still in good shape.

Next, the only two methods I can see, other than reducing the strength of the magnet, is to add a bit of tension to the hairspring. That can be accomplished by either changing the internal stop for the needle - making the needle (pointer) rest below zero and reinstalling the needle on zero, or bending the point where the outer end of the hair spring is retained in place, adding a little tension to the spring. That's going to take a bit of trial and error to get right. If it doesn't bring perfection, at least it should reduce the amount of the error.

Let me know if I can help you any further.

[Gregory]

Hold the metal shaft in the speedometer and turn the brass shaft and knob the opposite way used to reset the odometer. It WILL unscrew.

It Worked !!! Thanks

[Gregory]

Part two...

After you have the internals removed you will notice a 'hair' spring attached to the pivot shaft. If it has surface rust on it, more than likely it has been weakened by it- allowing the needle to read higher. All you can do at that point is to take a small artist brush, lightly dip in an oil such as 3-in-1 and LIGHTLY touch the brush on the hair spring - making sure the complete spring is LIGHTLY coated with oil. All you are trying to accomplish is to protect the spring from further rusting and add a bit of resistance in the form of surface tension. If the spring is very rusty, then all you can do is replace the speedometer. Hopefully it's still in good shape.

Next, the only two methods I can see, other than reducing the strength of the magnet, is to add a bit of tension to the hairspring. That can be accomplished by either changing the internal stop for the needle - making the needle (pointer) rest below zero and reinstalling the needle on zero, or bending the point where the outer end of the hair spring is retained in place, adding a little tension to the spring. That's going to take a bit of trial and error to get right. If it doesn't bring perfection, at least it should reduce the amount of the error.

Let me know if I can help you any further.

By "internals removed" do you mean just getting it out of the orange housing...or do i unscrew the 4 screws holding the cable shaft housing on?

I dont see a spring?

Also...see post and pic above. Where does the needle normally rest when at zero mph?

[spyug]

The easiest solution to an inaccurate speedo is to add a bicycle 'computer". I have done this to 3 bikes now and for around $40, when set up correctly, you will have a speedo that is within 1 or 2% as accurate as a GPS unit. I have used the Catseye brand and they are good to over 120kmph, plenty for a street bike.

Good luck with it.
Spyug

[rustybronco]

By "internals removed" do you mean just getting it out of the orange housing...

Yes.

I dont see a spring?

You will.

Also...see post and pic above. Where does the needle normally rest when at zero mph?

At or slightly below zero.
http://thegsresources.com/_forum/att...0&d=1327181475

[Gregory]

Yes.

You will.

At or slightly below zero.
http://thegsresources.com/_forum/att...0&d=1327181475

OH ! yes now i see the spring (coil type spring on the center needle) There is a little surface rust on it.


I wish I would have paid attention to where my needle was before taking the bezel off.... because after it was off youit was way below the first mark.