Weird Electrical Problem. Not sure where to turn

[tom203]

You got a suzuki, you need a decent multimeter! most today come with diode test function and cost less than $20.

PS; don't forget to read meter instruction manual

[RustRider]

Meter

I'm working on getting a proper meter. However, shouldn't it be a sure be that the R/R is bad if I hook everything up, unplug the R/R and there is not ground fault blowing out the main fuse with?

[tom203]

Yes, it's likely a bad R/R from what you describe.

[RustRider]

I got a hold of a meter. I'm getting approximately the same resistance reading regardless of direction between the red (hot) and ground wires coming out of the R/R when using the diode check function of the meter. I'm going to order a R/R and see if that fixes the problem. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks for every one's input.

[tom203]

I got a hold of a meter......... I'm going to order a R/R and see if that fixes the problem. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks for every one's input.

OK, but there's lots of crappy R/R's available- if your stator is still good, it would be a shame to fry it. Do you feel lucky?

[RustRider]

Is there a particular brand or source I should seek out for a replacement R/R? Is this ok: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...0GL-GS-1100-GL

[posplayr]

dont egg him on Tom get the SH-775

[posplayr]

I got a hold of a meter. I'm getting approximately the same resistance reading regardless of direction between the red (hot) and ground wires coming out of the R/R when using the diode check function of the meter. I'm going to order a R/R and see if that fixes the problem. I'll let you all know how it turns out. Thanks for every one's input.

That is NOT the proper test for checking your diodes.

You test between each stator line and RED and then all three with BLACK

[Guest]

Your best bet would be a series type R/R that shuts off when no charging is needed instead of shunting through the stator windings. The top of the line would be the CompuFire, I believe the SH-775 from a Polaris is lower priced and more in line with the output characteristics of our stator, but it is fairly new to the scene. If it turns out to be as reliable as the CompuFire, it may become the R/R of choice, only time will tell.

[RustRider]

That is NOT the proper test for checking your diodes.

You test between each stator line and RED and then all three with BLACK

I did some proper testing as posplayr recommended. There are two matrices below. The first is the test using the meter's diode test setting, the second using resistance setting. I check each combination then switched the meter leads and did the same combinations.



Just for kicks I hooked everything up again on the bike. With the bike off, everything connected, and the main fuse over fused, the R/R gets warm to the touch.

Any help interpreting the results from testing the R/R would be greatly appreciated. Also, if it does look like the R/R is the problem, pointers to a good place to get a new one would be great!

[posplayr]

I did some proper testing as posplayr recommended. There are two matrices below. The first is the test using the meter's diode test setting, the second using resistance setting. I check each combination then switched the meter leads and did the same combinations.



Just for kicks I hooked everything up again on the bike. With the bike off, everything connected, and the main fuse over fused, the R/R gets warm to the touch.

Any help interpreting the results from testing the R/R would be greatly appreciated. Also, if it does look like the R/R is the problem, pointers to a good place to get a new one would be great!

your test results are not showing, but if the key is off and the R/R is getting hot with the engine off means there is current flowing through. With a properly functioning diode bridge rectifier (R part of R/R) that is not possible when the engine is off.


Maybe you mis reported before the way you did the tests but with the new observations it sounds like the R/R is toast.

[gs11ezrydr]

Since you all are talking Reg/Rectifiers. With regards to the Compufire R/R I have been looking at them to upgrade my 82 gs1100ez from the stock unit. I see they have several amperages to choose from. Would any one know what the requirements are for that bike or how many amps the stator can possibly produce? Only specs I find for it is over 80 Volts AC output at 5000 r.p.m.. I am trying to deciede on either the 32A or the 40A .Several $$ differance between them. I don't know if this means a thing prob don't. But if adding up all the fuses including the accessory fuse I came up with 55 amps. So i'm sure its under that I would think. No where in the service manual or service specs can I find any output amperages except for the battery and it is 14Ah. And I still don't understand amp hours . Thanks in advance.

[posplayr]

Since you all are talking Reg/Rectifiers. With regards to the Compufire R/R I have been looking at them to upgrade my 82 gs1100ez from the stock unit. I see they have several amperages to choose from. Would any one know what the requirements are for that bike or how many amps the stator can possibly produce? Only specs I find for it is over 80 Volts AC output at 5000 r.p.m.. I am trying to deciede on either the 32A or the 40A .Several $$ differance between them. I don't know if this means a thing prob don't. But if adding up all the fuses including the accessory fuse I came up with 55 amps. So i'm sure its under that I would think. No where in the service manual or service specs can I find any output amperages except for the battery and it is 14Ah. And I still don't understand amp hours . Thanks in advance.

There is only one applicable. See the link in my signature for the proper part number. You need a 3 phase unit which all the rest are 2 phase.

[gs11ezrydr]

I thank you for straightening that out for me. It looks like my mind is made up for me. Part# 55402 40A here we come. I'm going to put a amp meter at the main fuse just to see what is going on for future referances.Thanks again

[posplayr]

I thank you for straightening that out for me. It looks like my mind is made up for me. Part# 55402 40A here we come. I'm going to put a amp meter at the main fuse just to see what is going on for future referances.Thanks again

The GS electrical needs about 10-11 amps. At idle that is about all the R/R will generate. As RPM's increase current will plateau at about 14 amps with the excess (of 10-11 amps) going to charge the battery.

Most amp meters are +/- 60 amps so this will barely show.

I would recommend a digital volt meter as being the most useful. Something like this................

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FXIJZC/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1NQ6C701T67D9

I currently have a VDO 8-16V 45 deg sweep and it is useable but not real useful as the range of swing is so small.

If you want to get really involved this would be the way to go

http://www.homeof12volt.com/shop/index.php/page/shop/flypage/product_id/293/category_id/63c619e28ea112ef2e99cb62d56ae114/offset/0?ps_session=857ebf35e6780e6cd391ea0d6ddb4151

cheaper and pretty big but apparently this works as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Volt-Meter-Digital-Shunt-200V/dp/B005HBBZEM/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t