Weird Electrical Problem. Not sure where to turn

[OldVet66]

What model Polaris are these SH-775 R/R's on?

[Killer2600]

The CompuFire must be getting popular http://www.ebay.com/itm/Voltage-Regu...-/310397820396

Hey, that's a steal of a deal. The ad lists normal retail at $203.99. Why pay that when you can pay $3,333.33 on ebay

[posplayr]

Shindengen calls it a 3phase open regulator.


　These regulators rectify the output from a three-phase generator, charge batteries, and control charging when battery voltage is high by opening the generator input.

We will have to see how the others turn out but from my measurements I believe the Compufire is a MOSFET implementation of a series/open regulator where as the sh775 schematic says it is an scr type. The cycle electric is also scr type and really big. The MOSFET design should provide about 0.5v more at idle because of the lower MOSFET voltage drops.

Can anyone comment on how warm the sh775 runs?

[tom203]

I'm hoping someone will put a AC current meter in one of the phases headed to a SH-775 so we can see what happens as a bike revs up. My 31 yearold SH-232 doesn't appear much warmer than surroundings after a good 2 hr run and I'd expect similar from the Sh-775.

[posplayr]

I'm hoping someone will put a AC current meter in one of the phases headed to a SH-775 so we can see what happens as a bike revs up. My 31 yearold SH-232 doesn't appear much warmer than surroundings after a good 2 hr run and I'd expect similar from the Sh-775.

Yes I know there has been a lot of discussion on needing a high frequency current clamp but a simple voltage measurement from a scope will suffice. If the regulator opens it will be obvious because the ac voltage will go up to the open circuit level (from 15vac up to 80 vac) when testing at 5k rpm. Also measuring the stator voltage relative to the battery (+) will give you the forward voltage drops when on that phase. So a dual trace scope would help but is not nesessary. If you are a total naysayer and don't believe in the light switch behavior of the series e/rs then you will need a current clamp to be convinced current actually drops to zero in the stator when the r/r goes open.

[tom203]

Me, I'd just duct tape my multimeter to my gas tank, set it on AC current and break into one phase between stator and R/R. effective reading should be about 10 amp max tapering off as R/R interferes with output. I'd quess the bike needs about 150 watts to keep ignition and light happy at all times.

[posplayr]

Me, I'd just duct tape my multimeter to my gas tank, set it on AC current and break into one phase between stator and R/R. effective reading should be about 10 amp max tapering off as R/R interferes with output. I'd quess the bike needs about 150 watts to keep ignition and light happy at all times.

SHUNT_vs_SERIES_RR_Compare_Tutorial[/COLOR][/URL]

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/4066862/ssr-vs-fh012aa-pdf-may-31-2012-10-20-pm-903k?da=y

At 5K RPM I measured 17.45 and 10.3 Amps RMS per leg (the peak current) for FH0012 and CF respectively.

I measured 14 amps DC supplied to electrical+battery or about 10.5amp to electrical only at idle

[850GT_Rider]

I hope you got it! should be available at all Polaris dealers; Cycle Parts Warehouse likely had more orders (courtesy of Steve's link here) than anticipated. If you can do some testing for us, let us know please . Shindengen apparently has more series units in the design stage.

My plan is to do a whole write up & pictorial, just not sure how soon. I've only got a few days back at Ft Courage (aka the office) before I head out again. Otherwise, its going to be after Memorial Day