Need help with new rectifier

[kiddchaos]

Hi guys,

so I recently decided my R/R was bad and purchased a new one. It is an aftermarket brand (Ricks) from my local motorcycle shop. Following my service manual the red wire had no connection to the stator inputs, and about 500k ohms from the black wire to the stator inputs. Following the stator papers with my multimeter set to the diode test mode I had no connection with the red lead on the red output wire and the black lead on the stator inputs. So from both the service manual and the stator papers it failed.

On to the new one reads no connection with the red lead on the red output wire and the black lead on the stator input wires and no connection with the red lead on the red output and black lead on the stator inputs.

On the other hand if I reverse the connections I get some continuity, not good connections but something.

Just as additional info the stators coils read about an ohm of resistance, are not shorted to the case, and put out around 90VAC at 5000RPMs

Is my new R/R wired wrong internally? Or could the motorcycle have caused this? If so what should I check?

[posplayr]

Hi guys,

so I recently decided my R/R was bad and purchased a new one. It is an aftermarket brand (Ricks) from my local motorcycle shop. Following my service manual the red wire had no connection to the stator inputs, and about 500k ohms from the black wire to the stator inputs. Following the stator papers with my multimeter set to the diode test mode I had no connection with the red lead on the red output wire and the black lead on the stator inputs. So from both the service manual and the stator papers it failed.

On to the new one reads no connection with the red lead on the red output wire and the black lead on the stator input wires and no connection with the red lead on the red output and black lead on the stator inputs.

On the other hand if I reverse the connections I get some continuity, not good connections but something.

Just as additional info the stators coils read about an ohm of resistance, are not shorted to the case, and put out around 90VAC at 5000RPMs

Is my new R/R wired wrong internally? Or could the motorcycle have caused this? If so what should I check?

You are probably not doing this test correctly.The diode test you check both directions.

Install it and see if it will charge. Do a Quick test report your results.

[mustangflyr]

You are probably not doing this test correctly.The diode test you check both directions.

Install it and see if it will charge. Do a Quick test report your results.

I agree with posplayr, install and test. But do install a digital volt meter on the motorcycle to monitor while you ride,it makes it easy to see how your system is functioning. Worked for me.

[kiddchaos]

Ok will do as soon as the rain clears and Im near my motorcycle.

[kiddchaos]

key off 11.75
key on 7.4 and dropping rapidly stabilized at 6

I didn't realize how dead my batter was
Currently recharging to get the motorcycle started

My next question has to do with my problem, could a battery cause the motorcycle to stall out even if the charging system is functioning properly?

[posplayr]

key off 11.75
key on 7.4 and dropping rapidly stabilized at 6

I didn't realize how dead my batter was
Currently recharging to get the motorcycle started

My next question has to do with my problem, could a battery cause the motorcycle to stall out even if the charging system is functioning properly?

That is why we need a quick test so everybody is on the same page and there are not 100 posts finally figuring out that teh battery is dead.

The charging system will not keep that dead battery above 12V.

[kiddchaos]

Going to get a new one right now

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. kiddchaos,

After the "Quick Test" you can go through The Stator Papers and its related documentation in the electrical section of my website. You'll also find guides on testing and replacement of the r/r unit and stator on my little website. Let me lay this on you....

If you are here you probably have a 30 year old motorcycle that needs about 20 years worth of maintenance. You'll find all kinds of helpful tips, procedures, manuals, diagrams, "how-to" guides, etc, in the links below. Let's get started.

Let me dump a TON of information on you and share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Cleanup Series, and the Stator Papers. All of these tasks must be addressed in order to have a safe, reliable machine. This is what NOT to do: Top 10 Newbie Mistakes. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please Click Here For Your Mega-Welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

More links to helpful threads in the forum:
Help! Your Bike Won't Start
DON'T DO THESE THINGS
Help! Your Bike Won't Run Well
Oh God! Pods!


Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[kiddchaos]

Thank you very much Posplayr, I'm used to automotive charging systems which mask bad batteries but didn't think till today about the fact that this charging system could only put out 15amps max

[kiddchaos]

And thank you Basscliff, I guess I may have gotten ahead of myself, I purchased the battery last year and assumed it was good (always learning to never assume) and went through the stator papers and replaced my rectifier since my bike stalled out on me during a normal ride. I went for another test ride and it died again and I was confused. I'm really glad this site, your site and other linked ones exist as I would have been clueless.

[kiddchaos]

Results after new battery.
Key off 12.9v
Key on 12.4v
Idle 13.2v
2.5k 13.3v
5k 13.2v
Key off 12.9

Still seems low to me but it must be charging some. I'm going to recheck connection resistances until someone chimes in.

Thanks in advance

[BassCliff]

Hi,

The voltage is lower as the revs increase. That means there is still resistance in the system. Clean ALL wiring connections, clean the fusebox, the ignition switch, all the grounds. Move the ground from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. You may need to splice/solder/shrinkwrap some wire to do this.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[posplayr]

Hi,

The voltage is lower as the revs increase. That means there is still resistance in the system. Clean ALL wiring connections, clean the fusebox, the ignition switch, all the grounds. Move the ground from the r/r unit directly to the negative terminal of the battery. You may need to splice/solder/shrinkwrap some wire to do this.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

yes Battery good, good idle voltage but seems quite a bit of voltage drop at higher RPM. The Revised Phase A will confirm that by measuring the actual drops at 5K RPM.

Even maybe try some of this stuff

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=208205&highlight=contact+cleaner