No power to any electronics on my gs650g

[tom203]

Your ignition/key switch is a good place to start- power goes from that main fuse to key switch and then is routed back to fuse box to power up those other fuses. Basscliff has the easy to read wiring diagram.... click thru

https://sites.google.com/a/dslextreme.com/cbsaunders/images/1982GS650GZ-1983GS650GD.Jpg?attredirects=0

[thadius33]

awesome! thanks for the help and the link!

[Steve]

ok, I got a test light on the fuses finally. The main fuse and the power source have power. But the ignition, signal and headlight fuses don't have any power going too them.

The only thing(s) between the main fuse and the other fuses is(are) the ignition switch (and a few connectors). Start near the fuse box, you will see a connector with four orange wires, three of them will also have a stripe on them. The orange wire is the return from the ignition switch that powers the other three fuses. If you have no power there, look near the fuse box, there is a single red wire. Actually, there might be two of them, but one will be covered with a sleeve. You want the other one, it is the one that sends power to the ignition switch. If you have power there, but not at the orange wire, look inside the headlight bucket for a four-pin connector that has red, orange, gray and brown wires. The red and orange wires are the other ends of the ones you were just playing with at the fuse box, check for power there. If you have power at the red wire, but not at the orange, your only other source of a problem is the ignition switch. Fortunately, you can take the switch part off the larger mechanism and clean the contacts, then put some dielectric grease in there to prevent future problems.

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[thadius33]

After fixing nothing but taking out a bad headlight fuse, i now have power to the neutral light and high beam light on the cluster. all the wires on the back of the ignition have power but the gray one.

[tom203]

The ignition switch has another spot (CW) that turns on taillight and lets you remove key- parking feature, also known as drain the battery feature.
Print up a few copies of that wiring diagram- you'll need it. Don't ignore fixing things- it's no fun having your bike die in middle of expressway surrounded by SUV's with ADD drivers.

[thadius33]

I am taking my bike to a friends house tonight to work on it. I put the wiring diagram on my tablet so im good to go. But I am having problems with the turn signals on the front. both power wires were unconnected, and i only found a power wire for one of them. Its a brown wire for the left turn signal, is there another brown wire for the right side?

[tom203]

According to diagram, black/white wire is the ground to both; solid black is hot to one side and some green color is hot to other side;BUT, I haven't actually looked at mine! ground connections are always suspect on turn signals.

[thadius33]

Unfortunately it looks like some of my wiring has been played with, because I am getting the left turn signal to work off of a connector that is connected to a brown wire. But that would explain the black and green wires that didnt have anything connected to them in there. thanks!

[tom203]

PO 's can be very creative trying to fix problems!

[Steve]

The brown wire in the headlight bucket is an auxiliary wire that can be used if you have marker lights in the front turn signals. It should be steady power (not flashing for turn signals) and should go ON and OFF with the ignition key.

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[thadius33]

LIke usual you guys were spot on . Everything now works but the rear turn signals, and the starter solenoid.

But when I took the little control box thingy that has the starter button apart (I apologize, I have been up since 4am and have no clue what that part is called). The piece that holds the throttle cable broke. Since my descriptions are spot on tonight I will provide a pic to clear up the muddy picture i have painted.

my parts list of things i need. or want
soleniod
front tire
throttle grip thing?
spring for the kick stand
clips for the air filter cover
the plastic covers for the battery and air box (both sides)

Once I got power to right places, its turned over like it was new, then turned the gas on and fired right up! I was pleasently surprised and happy that once I get the throttle issue taken care of, I could ride it. Again, thanks for all the help, I couldn't have done this without you guys!

[tom203]

Plan to do a little ebay searching for the odd stuff you need. Decent plastic sidecovers will likely cost $50 to $100 a set .A solenoid at Lowes will work good enough. There's a few right grip assemblies on ebay right now . The clips that hold air box filter cover on will be challenging to find. Probably best to get both tires as set when you can afford them.

[Redman]

ok, I got a test light on the fuses finally. The main fuse and the power source have power. But the ignition, signal and headlight fuses don't have any power going too them.......

After fixing nothing but taking out a bad headlight fuse, i now have power to the neutral light and high beam light on the cluster. all the wires on the back of the ignition have power but the gray one.

Usually when a problem is "fixed" by doing nothing, that means it is an intermittent problem that will come back on some other occasion of doing nothing. (and usually happens at some place called Timbuktu or the other place called B.F.Egypt. I have been to both.)

As others have mentioned, the gray wire on the ignition switch has to do with the park position of the ignition switch to light the tail light and only the tail light.

And... when you replaced the headlight fuse, do you now have headlight...?

I am suspecting a problem INSIDE the fuse block that may reoccur (start looking for one on ebay).

..... Everything now works but ..... the starter solenoid..

Good to hear of the progress.

About the starter solenoid:
- don't recall you making any statement about that before.
- do this test: Put your test probe negitive on the solenoid mounting bolt, scratch it in good to make good connection (not battery negative, see note below), put the probe probe on the solder pad where the little wire is attatched. THen have someone pull lin in clutch and hit the starter button. If the probe lights up, then know the starter button circuit is okay. If it doesn't light up then is a problem in the starter button circuit (like the clutch switch or no ground at the solenoid) and your solenoid may be okay.
- I could yammer on about more, ..... but before I do..... tell us what you observed, and what you tested. Often folks replace a starter solenoid and have no change, because problem was not the starter solenoid itself.

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later note:
Reason I say to put test probe negative on the solenoid mounting bolt (not batt negative) is that you are trying to put on the test probe to "see" if the solenoid is getting the voltage, so put test probe right on the solenoid... and the solenoid case bolted to the battery box IS the negative for the solenoid.
Tell us more.

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[thadius33]

well it wasn't fixed nothting, we found that that may power fuse was in and good but wasnt connecting good. took it back in and now everthin works, and the headlight fuse did fix the headlight.

I never mentioned the starter solenoid before because I wanted to get power to everything that i could before i worried about the ignition. I did take the ignition button apart, and tired to clean the contacts. And that didnt do anything. So if there is a problem in that circut where do i start? but I am really more worred about the grip assembly and rear turn signals right now. I dont care if I have to use pliers to start it first as long as I can get my license on this bike.

[thadius33]

Got her running, and everything works but the right rear turn signal.