R/R Sense wire

[tom203]

about .44 for forward voltage drop- sounds low compared to ones that I've tested, all were .58 to 63. You sure your multimeter battery is OK. In any event, you have a R/R that's getting real hot real quick. The diode check only applies about 3 volts DC to diode where as stator is throwing alot more at it- my understanding is that these rectifing diodes usually fail open circuited (don't conduct) while a zener in regulating portion could fail either way. I was hoping you had just tried another R/R

[posplayr]

about .44 for forward voltage drop- sounds low compared to ones that I've tested, all were .58 to 63. You sure your multimeter battery is OK. In any event, you have a R/R that's getting real hot real quick. The diode check only applies about 3 volts DC to diode where as stator is throwing alot more at it- my understanding is that these rectifing diodes usually fail open circuited (don't conduct) while a zener in regulating portion could fail either way. I was hoping you had just tried another R/R

A lower forward voltage drop is better as it means the R/R will not run as hot. The forward voltage drop (of two diodes) times the stator current is to large extent going to be the total power dissipated in the R/R. Which R/R are we talking about here v8_merc?

I was hoping he would have followed the stator pages and ran the modified Phase A tests.

The R/R might be OK and he is just suffering from bad connections. If the voltage drops between battery and R/R are significant (compared to 0.25 v maximum) then you know he is pushing current and it is bad connections. If there is no voltage drop and the voltage is low then it is moire likely the stator.

Having watched this scenario over and over, I think the stator pages Phase B and C especially the R/R tests are beyond most peoples skill set.

The Quick Test provides a very good start(which was completed by v8_merc) , and in this case the next step should have been the Revised Phase A. This will indicate whether there is current being supplied by the R/R using the dirty connections as built in current sensors. Voltage drop indicates current and also explains why the voltage to the battery remains low.

Make sure you do these two tests and report the results for diagnosis.
STEP #2 MEASURE POSITIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP
STEP #3 MEASURE NEGATIVE LEAD VOLTAGE DROP


Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3970459/stator-papers-phase-a-pdf-may-13-2012-10-43-am-55k?da=y

ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES

Depending upon what connections are bad, putting in another R/R could yield a similar of same result as with the original R/R therefore it is inconclusive. Granted if you have an plug and play replacement R/R that uses the identical connector, it might be worth the shot to parts swap the R/R, but as a general rule I would not go out of my way to do that test.

[1_v8_merc]

about .44 for forward voltage drop- sounds low compared to ones that I've tested, all were .58 to 63. You sure your multimeter battery is OK. In any event, you have a R/R that's getting real hot real quick. The diode check only applies about 3 volts DC to diode where as stator is throwing alot more at it- my understanding is that these rectifing diodes usually fail open circuited (don't conduct) while a zener in regulating portion could fail either way. I was hoping you had just tried another R/R

I'm just going to get another R/R.
I just wanna sell this thing, get it out of my garage.

In addition to the Diode test, I tried the Ohms test.(same process)
According to Steve, I should be getting "OL" one-way, and Resistance when I flip the Leads around. However, that's not happening, I'm getting Resistance on all 12 tests, clear as day.
Weird or what?

[tom203]

If he swaps out the R/R with another and gets same result, he gets to keep digging! I sorta figured he'd rather just try something simple!
I thought .44 low for conventional power diode unless its a Schottky type- I know my meter gives poor readings with weak battery

[posplayr]

If he swaps out the R/R with another and gets same result, he gets to keep digging! I sorta figured he'd rather just try something simple!
I thought .44 low for conventional power diode unless its a Schottky type- I know my meter gives poor readings with weak battery

As you say there are many variables and we don't really know what the test is indicating other than a forward bias of the diode (assuming revere bias is OL which was not posted). With only 3V or less I would not try and conclude more.

[posplayr]

I'm just going to get another R/R.
I just wanna sell this thing, get it out of my garage.

In addition to the Diode test, I tried the Ohms test.(same process)
According to Steve, I should be getting "OL" one-way, and Resistance when I flip the Leads around. However, that's not happening, I'm getting Resistance on all 12 tests, clear as day.
Weird or what?

Why not just re install the R/R and do the Phase A tests . It is probably just poor connections.

If the R/R was getting hot but not blowing a fuse that means it is flowing stator current and probably a lot. The most likely condition is that you have bad connections.

[1_v8_merc]

Update:

Stator - Exactly 54V-AC, on all 3 tests.
Close to 60, It's only got a couple hundred miles on it.

[posplayr]

Update:

Stator - Exactly 54V-AC, on all 3 tests.
Close to 60, It's only got a couple hundred miles on it.

That original test is necessary but not sufficient. Now measure the voltages from each leg to ground at the same 5000 RPM. That is a better test for the stator.


As I suspected you are not going to find anything.

[1_v8_merc]

Yeah, I'm done testing, lol.
I'm just going to check my connections again.

Thanks for the info everybody.

[1_v8_merc]

Okay, installed a SH-538, problem gone!
Got it for $20. Bike has good power now.

[posplayr]

Okay, installed a SH-538, problem gone!
Got it for $20. Bike has good power now.

Did you at least do the Quick Test?

[tom203]

Did you at least do the Quick Test?

Yeah, good idea to check it out just in case....... and which Shindengen R/R did you have before that was apparently no good??

[Cashmoney89]

hey guys just read through the RR papers for problem solving, because my crahrging system isnt working,,,at the bottom it says p[hase "B" test stator...but theres nothing there. can sumone send me the link if its already up on the forums?

i do own the manual, first time having to use a multimeter is on this electrical...so i may just be using it wrong, but the three yellow wires coming from stator...manual says is supposed to have 13-14 volts at 5000 rpm....im getting nothing on all wires, """Test was done with bike running, but 3 wires disconnected from the regulator's female pig tail plug. i put negative probe of meter on negative battery terminal, then touched positive lead off of 3 wires seperatly, got a reading of .1 on one wire, but thats it


i performed continuity check..all good that way, but that information could be meaningless in this problem....


The manual tells me to ""disconnect 3 lead wires coming from stator terminal"" does this mean draining oil and pulling my side case off, or is "terminal" up where it connects to the regulator?


Or should i leave everythign connected, and just stick the probe through the casing of the 3 yellow wires???

any thoughts??

[posplayr]

hey guys just read through the RR papers for problem solving, because my crahrging system isnt working,,,at the bottom it says p[hase "B" test stator...but theres nothing there. can sumone send me the link if its already up on the forums?

i do own the manual, first time having to use a multimeter is on this electrical...so i may just be using it wrong, but the three yellow wires coming from stator...manual says is supposed to have 13-14 volts at 5000 rpm....im getting nothing on all wires, """Test was done with bike running, but 3 wires disconnected from the regulator's female pig tail plug. i put negative probe of meter on negative battery terminal, then touched positive lead off of 3 wires seperatly, got a reading of .1 on one wire, but thats it


i performed continuity check..all good that way, but that information could be meaningless in this problem....


The manual tells me to ""disconnect 3 lead wires coming from stator terminal"" does this mean draining oil and pulling my side case off, or is "terminal" up where it connects to the regulator?


Or should i leave everythign connected, and just stick the probe through the casing of the 3 yellow wires???

any thoughts??

These tests can only be done with the front forks fully compressed and the exhaust silencer removed; this prevents grounding problems which can interfere with the results.

http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/3977...4-pm-649k?da=y

[Cashmoney89]

These tests can only be done with the front forks fully compressed and the exhaust silencer removed; this prevents grounding problems which can interfere with the results.

WHAAAAAAA?????? "This is me totally confused"

can u specify which tests your talking about?

Not to dis-agree, but personally Never in my life have i heard of needing to compress forks, or remove an exaust piece in order to test electrical?

I have 4to1 exaust, no wires going to it so im assuming theres nothing being measured, how would one compress the front forks? and if needed toc ompress like you say, how far do i kno to compress?




MAYBE a simpler question would be needed....new CDI/igniter installed, and new battery, but no charge going to battery... " please use simple terms where possible, im completly dumb when it comes to electrical, pretend like ur talkin to a lil kid haha" but what tests can i complete without having to tear apart components, pull wires, "Compress forks" exc...