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maybe electrical, maybe fuel/air. bike stalls, gets very hot

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    maybe electrical, maybe fuel/air. bike stalls, gets very hot

    well the title kind of spells it out, but I'll give some more details.

    After about a half hour to 45 minutes of running the bike will start stalling on deceleration. if I let it sit for 5 minutes its 50/50 that'll start back up, if I let it sit for 30 minutes it will start back up but may or may not stall again.

    I have done a few of the test in the stator paper fault flow chart and everything is in the right window. its not starting right now so I can't do it all of them till it charges.

    I just changed the main jets to see if that had anything to do with it. 1 & 4 were rich (97.5, spec is 95) and 2 & 3 were lean (92.5 spec is 102.5). 2 & 3 are now right and 1 & 4 are still rich, just with new jets.

    carbs are clean as a whistle, and fuel flows freely from the petcock.

    may or may not be related, my left turn signal only works intermittently. these are very cheap non stock turn signals.

    the R/R is shengen (sp?)

    also this is the second battery I've had on the bike in 6 months.

    finally the bike gets super hot. may or may not be related but you can fry and egg on the oil case cover 30 minutes after the bike has been turned off.

    questions, thoughts, ideas? I thank you in advance for any of them.
    Last edited by Guest; 05-21-2013, 05:23 PM. Reason: adding detail

    #2
    Am I reading that two carbs have one size jets and the 2 others have two differant sizes..but not the 102.5s?
    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

    Comment


      #3
      You edited as I was responding...what are the jet sizes in all 4 carbs? Mains and pilots?
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        May not be an issue but the centre jets are bigger to compensate for the extra heat of the inboard cylinders. Are you ceratain of the specification?
        Ia an airleak possible? Enleanment would certainly cause over heating.

        Comment


          #5
          Inner cylinders or outer is of no matter..ALL the jets in all 4 carbs are supposed to be the same.
          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

          Comment


            #6
            from the manual

            Comment


              #7
              I should add that that was done as a trouble shooting measure... it has had no effect on the behavior

              Comment


                #8
                The manual states that this may be caused by an oiling issue be it incorrect typ, low level, or oil pressure, A air intake leak. Low float bowl levels. and and and Carbon on the piston crowns.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I am corrected..that is the very first manual i have seen with a GS having 2 sets of different jets.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    Inner cylinders or outer is of no matter..ALL the jets in all 4 carbs are supposed to be the same.
                    Not on these carbs- inner throats get bigger mains- made sense to someone!

                    Super hot after 45 minutes- next time put your hand on ignitor box after stallout and see if it's glowing!
                    Last edited by tom203; 05-21-2013, 05:39 PM.
                    1981 gs650L

                    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I trhink they used the same trick on CBXs it is doen to compensate for the extra hot inner cylinders. Alas

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Oh not that it helps but Canadian spec is 97.5 and 105
                        So y'all got strangled by the EPA

                        In that you were into the carbs I would look for the problem there.
                        Did you replace the intake pipe o-rings with new ones?

                        This rubber boot twixt the airbox and throats are an absolute bastard to get on perfectly. I have thought that its well worth the 50 bucks of new ones.

                        I really cannot see how this could ever bee an electrical issueesp in light of the over heating.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I agree on the overheating and electrical not being related. But there is an electrical issue if youre cooking batteries every 6 months.
                          MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                          1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                          NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                          I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Could it be Posplayr is correct in his suspicion of the stator running hotter than the engine? Hmmmm.

                            I over looked the battery statement.

                            I think you have two unrelated issues fix the battery prob first. If that fixes the whole problem then we all owe Kudos to PP and some owe him an apology.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by JEEPRUSTY View Post
                              Could it be Posplayr is correct in his suspicion of the stator running hotter than the engine? Hmmmm.

                              I over looked the battery statement.

                              I think you have two unrelated issues fix the battery prob first. If that fixes the whole problem then we all owe Kudos to PP and some owe him an apology.
                              I think I would mount a volt meter on the bike. When cold do the Quick Test to establish a baseline and verify proper operation of charging system , then run for the 30 min until it starts dying and see if the voltages are dropping.

                              Stators clearly get hotter than engines that is why they(stators) look burned.

                              One other explanation is a stator that is shorting after getting hot. Is the battery running down?

                              The Revised Phase B tests for stator leg to ground are very reliable at detecting otherwise undetected stator failure according to Graham.

                              Comment

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