running & brake light staying on

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  • GSOH

    #1

    running & brake light staying on

    My taillight melted to the red plastic and I think either shorted or fused a wire somewhere in the harness. After replacing with an 1157 LL, both filaments now stay lit. I've traced the white & brown wire out of the light & toward the battery area. Any ideas where this could be going bad? All the fuses look good. Replaced 15amp signal thinking that would remedy but no dice. There are are few inline connectors that could be suspect.

    82 GS1100L
  • BassCliff

    #2
    Hi,

    Most of the time it's the front brake switch that has malfunctioned. You can take it apart, clean it up, and reassemble it properly to eliminate that possibility.

    Front Brake Switch Repair

    (by Mr. gravity tester)

    If it's not the front brake switch (or the rear brake switch), you'll have to trace the brake light wire until you find where it's getting 12 volts. It should only get 12 volts when the front or rear brake switch is activated.


    Thank you for your indulgence,

    BassCliff

    Comment

    • Steve
      GS Whisperer
      • Jun 2005
      • 35927
      • southwest oHIo

      #3
      The brown tail light wire goes straight to the ignition switch.

      The white brake light wire is fed by both front and back switches, but like BassCliff said, it's usually the front switch that has the problems.
      You can get a new front switch assembly for about $10.

      .
      sigpic
      mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
      hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
      #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
      #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
      Family Portrait
      Siblings and Spouses
      Mom's first ride
      Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
      (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

      Comment

      • GSOH

        #4
        It looks like it may be the front brake. I pulled it apart and only one small piece ( the copper block) was in there. Surely the other two tiny pieces didn't fall out on the floor I'm hoping this is all it is. Definitely seems suspect.

        Hoping the bike yard near me has an old brake I can salvage parts.

        Originally posted by BassCliff
        Hi,

        Most of the time it's the front brake switch that has malfunctioned. You can take it apart, clean it up, and reassemble it properly to eliminate that possibility.

        Front Brake Switch Repair

        (by Mr. gravity tester)

        If it's not the front brake switch (or the rear brake switch), you'll have to trace the brake light wire until you find where it's getting 12 volts. It should only get 12 volts when the front or rear brake switch is activated.


        Thank you for your indulgence,

        BassCliff

        Comment

        • GSOH

          #5
          Well, that is 110% the problem! With front brake assembly still apart, turned key, only one filament on. Kicking back pedal, brake light activates!

          Thanks for such quick response!

          Comment

          • Redman
            Forum LongTimer
            Past Site Supporter
            Super Site Supporter
            • Mar 2004
            • 13762
            • Michigan, west Michigan

            #6
            Good troubleshooting. Disconnect the front brake swtich and brake light goes off, then it was the front swtich that was keeping the brake light on.

            Replacement new swtiches are about 15 dollars.



            Originally posted by GSOH
            ........ Replaced 15amp signal .....
            Only the Main fuse should be 15amp. All the others are 10 amp.



            .
            Bikes​
            Had 650G & 850G. GK since 2005. BOTM 850G 6/2024 , GK 9/2015​

            Comment

            • Guest

              #7
              The banjo bolt type pressure switches that replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinders are a lot more reliable.

              Comment

              • Steve
                GS Whisperer
                • Jun 2005
                • 35927
                • southwest oHIo

                #8
                Originally posted by OldVet66
                The banjo bolt type pressure switches that replace the banjo bolt on the master cylinders are a lot more reliable.
                Yes, but they also require that you are acutally in the process of stopping before the light ever comes on.

                Having the light come on by barely squeezing the lever will give following motorists a split-second notice that you are about to be stopping.

                It also enables you to flash the light to get someone's attention without actually slowing down.

                .
                sigpic
                mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
                Family Portrait
                Siblings and Spouses
                Mom's first ride
                Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
                (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

                Comment

                • chuck hahn
                  Forum LongTimer
                  Past Site Supporter
                  • May 2009
                  • 25951
                  • Norman, Oklahoma

                  #9
                  Switches are readily available from many Ebay sellers and from the dealerships.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                  Comment

                  • chuck hahn
                    Forum LongTimer
                    Past Site Supporter
                    • May 2009
                    • 25951
                    • Norman, Oklahoma

                    #10
                    Here you go....


                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment

                    • chuck hahn
                      Forum LongTimer
                      Past Site Supporter
                      • May 2009
                      • 25951
                      • Norman, Oklahoma

                      #11
                      The full kit....

                      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                      Comment

                      • GSOH

                        #12
                        Originally posted by chuck hahn

                        Buying the full kit for a buck more seems the way to go. I'm still gonna hit up the local parts yard and see if I cant salvage one. Also, my neighbor gave me one out of his old assembly, but it doesnt have the fluted sides allowing the copper plate to easily (?) slide back and forth to contact the actuator plates. May have to mess with it a few minutes to get it up and moving again.

                        Comment

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