Blue Sea 5029 Fuse Block Modification

[Hakamisu]

Thanks KK. This was a huge help.

I will be running the headlight (Going to a LED, at 11W w/ about 1A), Tail light (new LED about .5A) and turn signals (new LED .3A all together) on the same fuse, different circuit of course. Sometimes I wish I was faster at drawing the diagram to show what I mean, but I want to do this right the first time.

I also found the relays will draw about 140mA on the power side. I also believe they take about 1A to activate. Can someone confirm this?

The start/kill switch is just going to activate the relay so I would assume about 1A again?

The actual ignition switch (the key) is going to a 2 position only just to activate the power relay, safe to assume 1A again.

So most of the 1A stuff is safe to go 20 or 22 AWG and for the Hard power stuff (Starter, Battery, R/R,) I will go with 12 AWG (mostly because I have lots of it) and for the coils and ignition box stick with 18 AWG (this seems small to me for the coils, maybe 16 AWG)

EDIT - Starter with a potential 50A pull, will be moving to 10 AWG (drops it to 1.7% V drop) and might as well do the same for BATT to fuse box too.

[koolaid_kid]

I agree with your assumptions, although I would not go any smaller than 20 gauge. I like to leave a little headroom, plus remember there is always surge current when turning something on.

One other suggestion, I did this on my GPz. since you are starting from scratch, I suggest wiring two relays in parallel. This gives you redundancy in case one fails, plus it lessens the load on each relay. I put a small Normally ON push button switch in each activation line. I can turn that relay off to test if the other one is working.
I use 86 to turn mine on, but there are many ways to wire them and they will still work.
Also, I used high quality relays so the chance of failure is (hopefully) lessened.
Good luck.

[Hakamisu]

I agree with your assumptions, although I would not go any smaller than 20 gauge. I like to leave a little headroom, plus remember there is always surge current when turning something on.

One other suggestion, I did this on my GPz. since you are starting from scratch, I suggest wiring two relays in parallel. This gives you redundancy in case one fails, plus it lessens the load on each relay. I put a small Normally ON push button switch in each activation line. I can turn that relay off to test if the other one is working.
I use 86 to turn mine on, but there are many ways to wire them and they will still work.
Also, I used high quality relays so the chance of failure is (hopefully) lessened.
Good luck.

I definitely like the idea of paralleling the main switch (if there is enough space). I am going to be putting in a "Relay Box" of sorts, since I will be having at least 4 (now 5), and will be using the Bosch style connectors for ease to swap if needed (this may alleviate the need for paralleling). We'll see.

[koolaid_kid]

Why do you feel the need for more relays? With your design there is really no need to do so.
I used the Bosch connectors but removed them because they took up too much space. But it does make it easier to swap them out.
Also, please note most are marked 30/40. The 30A rating is for 87 and 40A is for 87a. You can get higher current relays, but on a GS which cannot output anywhere close to 30A I did not see the use.

[Steve]

Can anyone tell me why the ignition turns on the lights separately from the fuse? would it matter if I fused it after the Power Sitched Relay?

If somebody already answered this, I did not see it, and I apologize, but I am going to answer it anyway.

If you follow the wiring for the lighting circuit, you will see that power comes from the fuse, then up to a connector that feeds power to the headlight beam selector. Somewhere near (in?) that connector, power will branch out, and a gray wire will feed the instrument lights and also send a gray wire to the ignition switch. There, it will be bridged to the brown wire when the ignition switch is in the RUN position to provide power to the tail light. Why is the tail light separate? Because if you put the ignition switch in the PARK position, the brown wire for the tail light is bridged to the red wire that comes from the main fuse, and will power the tail light as a warning device while parked on the side of the road. Note that you don't want to leave it there very long, a good battery might only last for about half an hour.

.

[Hakamisu]

If somebody already answered this, I did not see it, and I apologize, but I am going to answer it anyway.

If you follow the wiring for the lighting circuit, you will see that power comes from the fuse, then up to a connector that feeds power to the headlight beam selector. Somewhere near (in?) that connector, power will branch out, and a gray wire will feed the instrument lights and also send a gray wire to the ignition switch. There, it will be bridged to the brown wire when the ignition switch is in the RUN position to provide power to the tail light. Why is the tail light separate? Because if you put the ignition switch in the PARK position, the brown wire for the tail light is bridged to the red wire that comes from the main fuse, and will power the tail light as a warning device while parked on the side of the road. Note that you don't want to leave it there very long, a good battery might only last for about half an hour.

.

So the long and short is, no it won't matter if it's post switched power? I see the tail light thing for safety reasons but I have something up my sleeve for this. It will have to be a surprise as I am uncertain if it will work and I think it will be really cool if it does.

Thanks again everyone for all the input. Always appreciated.

[Hakamisu]

Why do you feel the need for more relays? With your design there is really no need to do so.
I used the Bosch connectors but removed them because they took up too much space. But it does make it easier to swap them out.
Also, please note most are marked 30/40. The 30A rating is for 87 and 40A is for 87a. You can get higher current relays, but on a GS which cannot output anywhere close to 30A I did not see the use.

Relays;

1 - Horn
1 - Switched Power (+1 if Paralleled)
1 - Coils/Ignition
1 - Turn Signal (not a power relay, but a relay none the less)

Oh, the wires from the signal generator to the ignitor box and then box to coils should be what gauge?

[Steve]

Yes, post-switched power will be fine. You can even bundle the tail light with all the other lights, as long as you don't feel the need to separate it out for the PARK function.

.

[koolaid_kid]

Relays;

1 - Horn
1 - Switched Power (+1 if Paralleled)
1 - Coils/Ignition
1 - Turn Signal (not a power relay, but a relay none the less)

Oh, the wires from the signal generator to the ignitor box and then box to coils should be what gauge?

O.K. 1, 2 & 3 are already covered by your present design. Just size your fuses appropriately. Yes the turn signal relay is a relay, so you would have your parallel relays plus the turn signal relay in the box and you are done.
22 gauge will be fine for the signal generator to igniter and 20 gauge will be fine for the igniter to coils.

[Hakamisu]

Well, between all the input on this thread, my other one related to the harness rebuild, a few private messages and seeing what was done for electrical in this thread: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=193507. I have realised this fuse block is a little large and I could use a little more compact.
Thankfully in my searching I found these, which I've priced out to almost equal and a lot better on space.

[koolaid_kid]

Excellent. In post #10 I wondered about the size. And it looks like they have done all the work for you, relays plus fuses. Good deal.

[Hakamisu]

Excellent. In post #10 I wondered about the size. And it looks like they have done all the work for you, relays plus fuses. Good deal.

It's a pretty cool system. What you're looking at is 2 separate boxes that "clip together. The both have clear lids as well.

The thing I really like about them is there are 4 fuses on the side of the "big row" that I will wire for the Battery side (I like that there is some sort of distinction, odd, I know).

[koolaid_kid]

I think you mean "switched" versus "unswitched", right?

[Hakamisu]

Yup. That is exactly what I mean.

[koolaid_kid]

To any interested parties, they have a web store: AutoStar
They appear to be based out of Britain.