shop got my gs1150 running, get it home and then no spark

[posplayr]

ok, just checked that, the orange wire plug at the coil has 12 volts and the other plugs does go up and down as I turn it over...maybe my plug wires are toast...

So you had full 12V and no secondary spark? Yes check wires.

[asbjones]

So you had full 12V and no secondary spark? Yes check wires.

do I just meter the wires in ohms? I get nothing when I do

[tom203]

do I just meter the wires in ohms? I get nothing when I do

On a coil ,remove plug caps - measure plug wire to plug wire (stick probes in wires)- should be about 12 kohms. It's tricky to measure over plug cap to plug cap due to corrosion and caps' resistance, but a decent reading might be 24 to 34 kohms.

[dorkburger]

do I just meter the wires in ohms? I get nothing when I do

What does nothing mean? Is it zero OHMS? Or zero, as in open circuit? Vastly different answers....I had similar problems last year, and the problem was a bad spark plug cap, and corrosion at the plug wire connections. I found this by checking and comparing all components separately.

[cableguy]

So what exactly did the shop touch? Go back and look at everything they put their hands on. If it started for you at the shop it seems that to create a no-spark condition would take more than a trailer ride home

So it cranks but no spark and 12V to and from the coils? (eliminates ignition switch, kill switch and clutch switch Have you pulled off the plug caps, trimmed the ends, reinstalled? Better yet replace them with new ones (Z1 will help you).

[dorkburger]

Also, check that your meter will read the required resistance. I have 2 that I use for work, and one is only good to 6k ohms. Anything above reads open circuit, which could and has led me to false conclusions before I realized it.

[asbjones]

What does nothing mean? Is it zero OHMS? Or zero, as in open circuit? Vastly different answers....I had similar problems last year, and the problem was a bad spark plug cap, and corrosion at the plug wire connections. I found this by checking and comparing all components separately.

I just metered for Ohms with another volt meter on the coils and wires and I'm getting zero...

[Kaiser Sosei]

I have NEVER had a Dyna S failure. Have you? Or have you just "heard" about them failing? Also, I know the guys at Dynatek, they are my friends, & they stand behind everything they sell & bend over backwards to help people! Racing IS different from street but that has nothing to do with reliability. A race engine will test every break point at a MUCH higher rate than a street engine so what is your point? Ray.

I know of one failure on my Dad's CB750. He did get roughly 30 reliable years out of it though before it failed.

[lemonshindig]

I just metered for Ohms with another volt meter on the coils and wires and I'm getting zero...

You shouldn't be... Zero ohms across the spark plug wires would be... semi-impossible. Spark plug wires have a bunch of inherent resistance.

[asbjones]

so Uncle Mike came down from Oakland and gave me a hand, we swapped coils and wires and got nothing, but started talking about the coil relay mod, what I thought is 12 volts getting to the coils is more like 9 or 10, Im going to do the coil relay mod and get new coils and wires as well...

this coil relay mod sounds like my problem, when the shop put their big monster car charger in start mode on the bike it had to be pumping more than 12v into the system, thats gotta be why it started, I have old wires just by the looks of my harness, I might even need to completely redo some of it...

what do you guys suggest for coils and wires? I have seen some 3.0 ohm accel coils and some 2.2 Dyna coils online for pretty good prices

-Aaron

[OldVet66]

Just do the coil relay mod first, electronic ignitions will not work below a certain voltage threshold. That is true of the type you have and also the Dyna-S. I have had a Dyna-S module fail, but it was on the bike when I had a high voltage charging problem that also toasted the stator. It still lasted many years before it failed and Dyna offered to replace it at cost. Dyna is a model business as far as I am concerned, and will always get my business in the future. Having said that, I doubt the shop checked your charging system out properly and that would be a priority concern right now. If you get 12v to the coils it will probably start. Do the mod and then sort out your high contact resistances in the harness, plugs, connectors, switches, etc. so you don't keep a problem that will continually cause your charging system to go south. Series R/R's are also at the top of the list to keep your charging system healthy.

[exdirtbiker]

While you're fildding around with all those wires, remove/clean/inspect the ground wire on that bike.
My 83 Magna went through 3 pair of ( $150/ pair used ) CDI boxes before we found the smoking gun... intermittent ground. The ground bolt looked like a long white fuzzy cigarette.
The boxes would short out/blow up 3 miles into a ride.
A very expensive lesson....

[hjfisk]

I'll almost bet that when they started your bike with their "BIG MONSTER CAR BATTERY CHARGER IN START MODE" that is generally 200 amps on a 15 or there abouts, amp system, that they fried your igniter, also probably fried your regulator in the process. You will figure that one out when you do get it running .

[asbjones]

so heres an update to my thread...

Got a set of green Dyna coils, new Taylor wires, NGK plug ends and rubber boots

made new brackets and Relayed the coils

do I use a 4 pin relay? as the 5 pin seems to switch on and off between the 2 87s

I do have anice 12 volts plus at my coils, but Im still not getting spark

[asbjones]

ok I just looked it up, I need to use a 4 pin and split it to each coil or just the single 87 post on the 5 pin...