Front brake light switch nightmare.

[Guest]

I lost the copper clip. It fell out and I have NO idea where it is. So, looks like i will be adding a banjo bolt switch. Anyone know the thread pitch for the banjo? I was going to put the extra master from my TL but it is a smaller diameter. 14mm than the 5/8 on the 11. Suggestions?

[Steve]

You still have a clutch "safety" switch?

Same parts, you don't really need the clutch switch, it can be bypassed.

.

[Mario]

You freaking rock man!!!!

[Mario]

I guess just tie the clutch switch wires together?

[Gorminrider]

or, make one.
An extreme tinker might be a piece of house wiring hammered,bent, filed and even "hardened" somewhat.(copper "tempering" is opposite of steel tempering -slow-cool to harden? I recall but look it up)
or get piece of brass
or what passes for it in a light socket ...
or?

[tkent02]

I guess just tie the clutch switch wires together?

Even easier, inside the headlight th bike's harness has a male and female connector going to the clutch switch. Join the two together and it is bypassed.

You can work on the switch inside a clear plastic bag so you don't lose any more parts.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Even easier depress both brakes simultaneously.

[Steve]

I guess just tie the clutch switch wires together?

As tkent mentioned, open the headlight bucket, find the yellow/green wires that come from the clutch switch. Separate them. Re-connect the two wires on the bike side of those connectors back to each other, instead of to the switch, you will now not NEED to pull the clutch to use the electric starter. Still a good practice to pull the lever when you start the bike, but it's a lot easier when working on the bike and you KNOW that it's already in neutral.

.

[tkent02]

Still a good practice to pull the lever when you start the bike,

Why ?

[Brendan W]

Why ?

I always thought it reduced the load on the starter by disconnecting the transmission and is a safety for the day you press the button in gear.
SOP for me.
My cage experts tell me it's bad for cages - some waffle about thrust washers - can't be bothered actually. So a cage dies . I still do it starting the bus.

[chuck hahn]

Or just cut a thin strip of sheet metal and bend up your own U and stick it in. I always add a dab of grease to the spring so it sticks to the plastic pin..and in turn, the U stick to the entire thing. Insert them and add the switch board and the cover.

[Steve]

Why ?

Why? Because I have seen "false neutrals" more than once.

There are times it's actually in neutral, but the light is not on, but I have also seen the light come on while it was still in gear.

For that reason, unless I have guaranteed by some other means, like pushing it out onto the driveway, I will pull the clutch first.

Or just cut a thin strip of sheet metal and bend up your own U and stick it in.

That is probably possible, but then you don't have the advantage of the little holes in the sides of the stock piece that hold it to the plastic tab on the other end of the spring.

Those holes fit over little tabs on the plastic piece and hold the spring in place, making the whole job a LOT easier.

.

[JEEPRUSTY]

Use the rear at the same time as the front
how is this complicated people

the oem front switches are crap

[tkent02]

Use the rear at the same time as the front
how is this complicated people

the oem front switches are crap

So is the rear. Having only one increases your odds of having none sometime when you might need it.

The pressure switches are much more reliable.

[tkent02]

Why? Because I have seen "false neutrals" more than once.

There are times it's actually in neutral, but the light is not on, but I have also seen the light come on while it was still in gear.

For that reason, unless I have guaranteed by some other means, like pushing it out onto the driveway, I will pull the clutch first.

Again, why? If it's in gear it gives you a little kick in the butt to remind you. It's not like it's going to start up and run away, or lurch forward and run over some kid like a car can.