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last337
I think I got it all figures out at this point. I was able to see bundle dthe multiple wires together by stripping back harness coming from stator and connected to r/r. I'm going to go ahead and use simple method of going direct to battery from r/r with a 20amp fuse on red. I will go ahead and put a new ground to frame while I'm at it. I am wondering what gauge wire should i use?
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16 gauge is fine just make sure you clean the connectors and crimps ; get some detoxit as well.Originally posted by last337 View PostI think I got it all figures out at this point. I was able to see bundle dthe multiple wires together by stripping back harness coming from stator and connected to r/r. I'm going to go ahead and use simple method of going direct to battery from r/r with a 20amp fuse on red. I will go ahead and put a new ground to frame while I'm at it. I am wondering what gauge wire should i use?
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OK I take it back for the primary Red I'm using 14 AWG for the SPB but 16 AWG for all the individual circuits. The R/R probably doesn't have much bigger than 16 but I guess it depends on the connector.Originally posted by gearhead13 View Post16 Gauge
Maybe be ok for stator wires. I used 12 gauge for my + and - wires to the battery.
12 AWG is overkill unless you are running the R/R in front of the engine.
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last337
I currently have a #8 ground to engine and that is it. I saw a thread that said
#8 to engine
#8 to frame (im guessing one from post to frame, then frame to engine)
and then 12 for others but I am wondering if I go from R/R to frame with 12 or 16 if I have new #8 like stated above
I am really trying to understand why/how this is all so important so I want to do it as best as possible without pulling apart whole harness
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gearhead13
Your grounds from battery should be 8 ga to frame and engine. The wires from your R&R to battery should be at least 14ga, I used 12ga. Better to wire R&R ground to battery IMO. Stator wires can be 14-16 IMO, i have had them heat up and melt. Also soldering all connections is highly recommended, blade and bullets connectors can be a point of failure from overheating from resistance from my experience.Originally posted by last337 View PostI currently have a #8 ground to engine and that is it. I saw a thread that said
#8 to engine
#8 to frame (im guessing one from post to frame, then frame to engine)
and then 12 for others but I am wondering if I go from R/R to frame with 12 or 16 if I have new #8 like stated above
I am really trying to understand why/how this is all so important so I want to do it as best as possible without pulling apart whole harness
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last337
Thank you that is exactly what I needed. If I go directly to battery from grounds and R/R I will have a lot of things to tie together at neg battery post. I always wonder if it better to go into one ring terminal with everything at battery or use two ring terminals. I just think that someone might possibly hook it up and miss a ground if there are two separate ones.Originally posted by gearhead13 View PostYour grounds from battery should be 8 ga to frame and engine. The wires from your R&R to battery should be at least 14ga, I used 12ga. Better to wire R&R ground to battery IMO. Stator wires can be 14-16 IMO, i have had them heat up and melt. Also soldering all connections is highly recommended, blade and bullets connectors can be a point of failure from overheating from resistance from my experience.
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I run 3 grounds, battery to engine, RR to battery and RR to frame. That was from the ole shunt RR days, though I kept it for the Compufire anyways, what could it hurt.Originally posted by last337 View PostThank you that is exactly what I needed. If I go directly to battery from grounds and R/R I will have a lot of things to tie together at neg battery post. I always wonder if it better to go into one ring terminal with everything at battery or use two ring terminals. I just think that someone might possibly hook it up and miss a ground if there are two separate ones.sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
2015 CAN AM RTS
Stuff I've done to my bike:dancing: 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.
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