power conservation - saving the stator

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  • bwanna
    • Jan 2026

    #1

    power conservation - saving the stator

    I have an 82 GS450 that I've been trying to make a bit more electrically efficient.

    We all know the reputation for the stators and shunt-based regulators... in short, they can burnt out over time under normal conditions. So, I worked to save myself from a long walk home by doing a number of things.

    1. I changed ALL of the incandescent to LED.
    2. Ran a ground wire from the regulator directly to the battery. (Improves regulation consistency.)
    3. Installed a shunt-based ammeter at the Regulator V+ output. (Since I ride 365 in the DC area i.e. heated clothing, this helps in monitoring the actually amperage.)
    4. pulled all connections, cleaned and added electrolytic jell with reassembly
    5. pulled all ground connections, cleaned with fine sandpaper and reconnected with small amount of E-jell (see above)
    6. replaced Stock Headlight with HID.

    With all this, she was able to run at about 3-4 amps with high beams on.

    This allowed me to add 2 HID 55watts driving lights and full heated gear and still not go over 13 amps.

    I also replaced the stock Stator with a 25A upgrade and added a 35A RR. You'll also notice that I added a 6-fuse, 4-relay upgrade.

    The fuse and relay upgrade is taken from an 80's Jeep... with some physical modifications. The Jeep had modules within the big fuse bank (in the engine compartment.) I went to the local junk yard and found a module that had a 6-fuse/two-relay configuration and added (glued) another two relay module next to it. This did require some careful utility knife cutting, etc. After rewiring it from scratch, I ended up with the attaced wiring diagram. The relays are high amperage capable and take the load off of the stock switches. This is a good thing!

    Will probably not have any electrical problems unless I add a fifth-wheel trailer.

    My motto is "Do it right and you'll only do it once."

    Here's the custom schematic for the bike.

    Cheers and Safe riding.
    Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2014, 08:17 PM.
  • tkent02
    Forum LongTimer
    Past Site Supporter
    • Jan 2006
    • 35571
    • Near South Park

    #2
    No Series regulator?
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

    Comment

    • posplayr
      Forum LongTimer
      GSResource Superstar
      Past Site Supporter
      • Dec 2007
      • 23673
      • Tucson Az

      #3
      Have you got any picture of the unit with mounting?

      Sounds good and for the reasons you did this , I did this....

      See the All NEW Solid State Power Box


      It is bike nite here in Tuscon, so I'll be back tomorrow.
      Last edited by posplayr; 02-26-2014, 08:42 PM.

      Comment

      • posplayr
        Forum LongTimer
        GSResource Superstar
        Past Site Supporter
        • Dec 2007
        • 23673
        • Tucson Az

        #4
        A couple of comments:

        I don't see a fuse between the battery and the R/R. If one of the diodes in the R/R were to short you could have troubles,

        I see you have two shunt current meters. One on Battery Current and the other on R/R current. Generally you don't want anything between the battery and the R/R. Any voltage drop will keep the battery from charging to the R/R's setpoint (typical 14.25-14.5V).

        While I don't like putting anything between battery and R/R, if you moved the one shunt on the R/R to the current gong to the electrical system then you will have measured two values that help you deduce what the R/R current is without having at least he one shunt meter.

        You ignition switch is also powered with unfused power. Which means the Orange coming back is not fused either. You need to put a fuse close to the battery as protection from any one of various shorts.

        You have a lot of frame grounds. Just make sure that the power returns have an easy path back to the R/R(-). That is where all the current returns to when you are charging the battery.

        Unfortunately the resolution of the schematic is too poor to read any of the smaller marking so I had to give up trying to figure out what each relay was for.
        Last edited by posplayr; 02-27-2014, 01:52 AM.

        Comment

        • bwanna

          #5
          Originally posted by tkent02
          No Series regulator?
          Would be nice, but the price was a bit high at the time. I went with the shunt type purely for price. IF it blows, I might replace it with a series regulator.

          Comment

          • bwanna

            #6
            Originally posted by posplayr
            A couple of comments:

            I don't see a fuse between the battery and the R/R. If one of the diodes in the R/R were to short you could have troubles,

            I see you have two shunt current meters. One on Battery Current and the other on R/R current. Generally you don't want anything between the battery and the R/R. Any voltage drop will keep the battery from charging to the R/R's setpoint (typical 14.25-14.5V).

            While I don't like putting anything between battery and R/R, if you moved the one shunt on the R/R to the current gong to the electrical system then you will have measured two values that help you deduce what the R/R current is without having at least he one shunt meter.

            You ignition switch is also powered with unfused power. Which means the Orange coming back is not fused either. You need to put a fuse close to the battery as protection from any one of various shorts.

            You have a lot of frame grounds. Just make sure that the power returns have an easy path back to the R/R(-). That is where all the current returns to when you are charging the battery.

            Unfortunately the resolution of the schematic is too poor to read any of the smaller marking so I had to give up trying to figure out what each relay was for.

            Thanks for the feedback. I'll take a look at this. You're absolutely right about the fuse being needed between the RR and battery. If I did miss that, it would be a bozo error on my part.

            Comment

            • bwanna

              #7
              Originally posted by posplayr
              Have you got any picture of the unit with mounting?

              Sounds good and for the reasons you did this , I did this....

              See the All NEW Solid State Power Box


              It is bike nite here in Tuscon, so I'll be back tomorrow.
              I'll take a picture and upload it later. BTW, NICE product! Good idea to use FETs, etc. I'd buy one if it wasn't for my Maslowian need to tinker myself! Know what I mean?

              Comment

              • Nessism
                Forum LongTimer
                GSResource Superstar
                Past Site Supporter
                Super Site Supporter
                • Mar 2006
                • 35787
                • Torrance, CA

                #8
                A series R/R protects the stator from frying. I bought a low mileage used unit off ebay for $40 shipped.
                Ed

                To measure is to know.

                Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                Comment

                • bwanna

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Nessism
                  A series R/R protects the stator from frying. I bought a low mileage used unit off ebay for $40 shipped.
                  After I responded started thinking that maybe the one I bought was a series RR. That pesky memory of mine.

                  Comment

                  • rustybronco
                    Forum LongTimer
                    Bard Award Winner
                    GSResource Superstar
                    Past Site Supporter
                    • Jul 2005
                    • 14961
                    • Marysville, Michigan

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Nessism
                    I bought a low mileage used unit off ebay for $40 shipped.
                    Thanks for the reminder Ed.
                    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-Polaris...9cf76c&vxp=mtr
                    De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                    http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #11
                      The problem with the shunt type R/R is that it dogs the stator 24/7. A lighter load might just keep it shunting through the stator more. Your only salvation will be upgrading to a Series regulator that shuts off when not charging. A lighter load certainly gives you more for your accessories, but it isn't going to do much for the stator.
                      Last edited by Guest; 02-27-2014, 10:52 AM.

                      Comment

                      • bwanna

                        #12
                        Originally posted by OldVet66
                        The problem with the shunt type R/R is that it dogs the stator 24/7. A lighter load might just keep it shunting through the stator more. Your only salvation will be upgrading to a Series regulator that shuts off when not charging. A lighter load certainly gives you more for your accessories, but it isn't going to do much for the stator.
                        Agreed... I need to see if I actually did get the series RR

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #13
                          There are only three on the market that I know of that work with the GS bikes, the Polaris SH-775, the Compu-Fire 55402 And I believe an Eletrix unit (not sure of the number, but 601 comes to mind). It is unlikely you got one by chance, especially shopping for price.

                          Comment

                          • bwanna

                            #14
                            Here's a photo of the regulator and fuse block. It's definitely not as pretty as the SSPB!

                            Comment

                            • rustybronco
                              Forum LongTimer
                              Bard Award Winner
                              GSResource Superstar
                              Past Site Supporter
                              • Jul 2005
                              • 14961
                              • Marysville, Michigan

                              #15
                              Originally posted by bwanna
                              After I responded started thinking that maybe the one I bought was a series RR.
                              From the picture you provided, yours isn't a series R/R.
                              De-stinking Penelope http://thegsresources.com/_forum/sho...d.php?t=179245

                              http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...35#post1625535

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