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I think it's easy for us old guys to visualize why a bike won't start or run, but for the new people I'll give a nice example.
81 GS650L cranks but no start....every once in a while it starts and runs great.
I noticed something that I've seen on a few other GSs in that whenever it DOES START, it is always when I am LETTING OFF the starter button.. as if it catches just at the last moment. I figured a low voltage to the ignition of course like most of these bikes have..
I did a voltage drop at the coil +wire and found THREE volts gone missing!!
Where did the volts go?
To do a voltage Drop Test, you simply place the two leads of a voltmeter on both leads of a suspect component (or circuit) while powered up.
This test, I was testing the power to coil circuit. One test lead on the + BATTERY, the other on the coil + power wire.
In a COMPLETELY GOOD CIRCUIT, you would see very little voltage, as it is actually the SAME WIRE OK??
But in my case, I see 3 volts and that is a NO_NO.
I did the drop test on various things , like the ignition switch in and out and I lost .4 volts. I cleaned the switch and ended up with .2.. "OK" i guess.
The actual wiring to and from the switches was good, some connectors just simply unplugging and plugging in improved it by a .1v drop.
The most drop was in the fuse box and when initally testing it it was not nearly as bad..???
After not finding my elusive other 1.5 volt drop, I tested it again. and found THIS FUSE. It fell apart in my fingers.
I plan on replacing the fuse box with ATC spade fuses , doing a coil relay mod, and rect/reg loop elimination.
I bet it starts better!!
81 GS650L cranks but no start....every once in a while it starts and runs great.
I noticed something that I've seen on a few other GSs in that whenever it DOES START, it is always when I am LETTING OFF the starter button.. as if it catches just at the last moment. I figured a low voltage to the ignition of course like most of these bikes have..
I did a voltage drop at the coil +wire and found THREE volts gone missing!!
Where did the volts go?
To do a voltage Drop Test, you simply place the two leads of a voltmeter on both leads of a suspect component (or circuit) while powered up.
This test, I was testing the power to coil circuit. One test lead on the + BATTERY, the other on the coil + power wire.
In a COMPLETELY GOOD CIRCUIT, you would see very little voltage, as it is actually the SAME WIRE OK??
But in my case, I see 3 volts and that is a NO_NO.
I did the drop test on various things , like the ignition switch in and out and I lost .4 volts. I cleaned the switch and ended up with .2.. "OK" i guess.
The actual wiring to and from the switches was good, some connectors just simply unplugging and plugging in improved it by a .1v drop.
The most drop was in the fuse box and when initally testing it it was not nearly as bad..???
After not finding my elusive other 1.5 volt drop, I tested it again. and found THIS FUSE. It fell apart in my fingers.
I plan on replacing the fuse box with ATC spade fuses , doing a coil relay mod, and rect/reg loop elimination.
I bet it starts better!!
The Solid State Power Box is designed to address the issues you are documenting in a comprehensive way using modern automotive grade solid state electronics. In fact it eliminates the fuses by employing electronics that constantly detect current. If the current exceeds the 10 amp level of the fuse, it shuts it off until the short goes away. It then just goes back to providing the in spec current.There is much more........
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