head light went out

[Guest]

ok guys lost the thread now what

[tom203]

ok guys lost the thread now what

Computer probably didn't like you!

Just start again, putting the relevant info in one post. Do the quick test stuff and report your results step by step. Mention your current location and a member might be nearby

here's that link again

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1272192#post1272192

[mandu57]

checked the stator with volt/ohm meter. have zero coming from it.i disconnected it from rectifier/voltage regulator. thinking stator is out or wire broke. maybe when I replace cover gasket.it got pinched or cut..Possible???

[mandu57]

ok 12.5 key off, 12.8 running at idle. does not increase when rpm's go up...either rectifier or stator

[Redman]

possibly you deleted your first post.

checked the stator with volt/ohm meter. have zero coming from it.i disconnected it from rectifier/voltage regulator. thinking stator is out or wire broke. maybe when I replace cover gasket.it got pinched or cut..Possible???

zero volts?
zero volts AC, meter on AC...?
stator disconnected...?
with engine running...?
between each combination of two wires...?

Reason I ask is even a badly toasted stator will usally show some voltage on at least one set of wires.




And what do you find relative to your other problem of no headlight nor any instrument lights...?


.

[mandu57]

yea I did not put it on ac. still have not found reason for dash and headlight problem..

[mandu57]

will check when I return from work at 7:30 pm tonite..

[tom203]

When you do the AC test (stator disconnected from R/R) looking for 60 to 80 volts AC lead to lead, also measure AC from one stator lead to good ground on bike- you want none.

[mandu57]

only getting 5.2 volts either lead. only getting 12.5 at battery. at idle and higher rpm. battery started at 12.8.still have not found reason for headlight and dash light outage

[tom203]

Previously you said...
"ok 12.5 key off, 12.8 running at idle. does not increase when rpm's go up...either rectifier or stator ":

the 5.2 volt stuff makes little sense stator lead to stator lead, since you were getting 12.8 "running at idle" ( some output)- test your meter on AC house outlet.

[posplayr]

Previously you said...
"ok 12.5 key off, 12.8 running at idle. does not increase when rpm's go up...either rectifier or stator ":

the 5.2 volt stuff makes little sense stator lead to stator lead, since you were getting 12.8 "running at idle" ( some output)- test your meter on AC house outlet.

He needs to report all of the numbers. He did not give the loaded battery test portion so so knows?

[tom203]

He needs to report all of the numbers. He did not give the loaded battery test portion so so knows?

I know, but it's like pulling teeth! I gave him the link in this thread and in his lost post yesterday but he seems reluctant.

[JTGS850GL]

volt meter says 120 volts coming from house
so the meter is right,disregrade the 12.8
I am getting 5.2 from stator.

Are you saying that you get no more then 5.2V AC from any two pair of wires from the stator with the engine running? Is that with the stator disconnected from the R/R? If so, then I'd say you have at least a stator issue. Pretty sure you can not definitively tell if the R/R is working correctly until you get a healthy stator in there.

[posplayr]

I know, but it's like pulling teeth! I gave him the link in this thread and in his lost post yesterday but he seems reluctant.

confidential information.

If the headlamp is ON (after a push start) I'm good to go.

[tom203]

It's a long way to North Dakota from Florida- get this sucker fixed! A new stator can be had from Caltric for $60- I'm using used ebay ones, but I live dangerously . Try to get hold of a 30 year old Shindengen R/R -millions put on Hondas and Kawasakis so junk yards will have them and they seem to be indestructible.(BUT they are no longer the best choice for this size/type charging system)