SH-775 wiring and battery drain

[tom203]

When "the 15 amp main fuse blows while bike is running" stuff is the kicker for me- having your bike conk out on expressway due to overstressed chinese fuse is no fun. better to discover this at next gas stop!

[GS(X)400]

So when i installed my Honda RR I did as Posplayr is suggesting and wired into the harness rather than direct to the battery. This was also at the suggestion of my Automotive electric friend (he re wires custom RV's dump trucks and crap).

He also helped me install the coil relay Mod. But in his suggested configuration he has me wire it directly from the post on the starters Solenoid instead of direct to the battery any potential issues with this setup?

[Nessism]

1980CS1000E I used the original stator when I changed to my Compu-Fire despite warnings that the stator color indicated it would fail. It ran perfectly for one year, then failed. Replaced the stator and everything was fine again. I had initially wired to the stock harness feed. I changed it to direct battery feed through a fuse and charging was definitely better with less dimming of the headlight at idle.

Charging voltage on my 1000S was low, and following the Stator Papers step #2 "Measure Positive Lead Voltage Drop" procedure showed there was voltage loss in the path between the R/R power output and the battery. Cleaned all the connectors in the circuit (removed the brass contacts and cleaned before reinstalling) and recovered the lost voltage. Checking for the loss is easy enough; us a voltmeter between the + battery terminal and the R/R output wire. Easy enough to take care of and avoids having to add extra wires into the system.

[Gorminrider]

When "the 15 amp main fuse blows while bike is running" stuff is the kicker for me- having your bike conk out on expressway due to overstressed chinese fuse is no fun. better to discover this at next gas stop!

...so,(from that diagram) I'm still going down the expressway unaware of any issue while the charging system lights the bike on fire?..great.

[posplayr]

...so,(from that diagram) I'm still going down the expressway unaware of any issue while the charging system lights the bike on fire?..great.

If the main fuse blows or breaks a fire will not nessesarily ensue. At elevated rpm you will overcharge but that is the worst of it. That a lot safer than having the bike quit in traffic. If you have a volt meter you should see it immediately upon glancing at that indicator.

I don't think that is however the driver for me, it is that in a direct battery connection you have to increase the fuse size well above the actual load requirement. That is just not good. There are other more subtle reasons as well. This a clear example of Suzuki having done the design correct and the popular naive way is just asking for trouble.
And the KAW method ed keeps coming up with where there is no fuse between the battery and r/r is just idiotic. If the r/r shorts the battery will fry anything between it and that ground.

[salty_monk]

I see a fuse in both diagrams Nessism posted. He says in the post that there is an inline fuse too. I think the symbol is just different.

I believe I actually have the Skunk setup as per the bottom one (i.e. I feed both the fuse box & the battery directly (through a fuse) although I can't say for sure without going to look...

I expect the "running 11amp" as opposed to running "4 amp" figure could answer some questions for faults that I thought were related to something else if I am reading the material correctly.

[posplayr]

I see a fuse in both diagrams Nessism posted. He says in the post that there is an inline fuse too. I think the symbol is just different.

I believe I actually have the Skunk setup as per the bottom one (i.e. I feed both the fuse box & the battery directly (through a fuse) although I can't say for sure without going to look...

I expect the "running 11amp" as opposed to running "4 amp" figure could answer some questions for faults that I thought were related to something else if I am reading the material correctly.

Granted I did have to make some assumptions of how people wired theirs up. I'm sure they are not all the same. What I figured was, that they would probably do what appeared most straight forward which is to go right to the battery with the R/R including an in-line 20-25Amp fuse in between the two on the RED(+) side. Then they would just tape back the red wire coming from the harness (where the R/R used to go to the "T").

If you double check that is how the lower drawings are constructed as the "popular method"

[1980GS1000E]

So removed the stator after testing it and discovered that it is shorted to ground on one lead. The rotor looks fine, but I found another problem. Anyone care to guess what it is?

[Guest]

The starter is not engaging properly? from the picture it looks like the teeth are barely touching. Take of the starter cover, I bet the bolts have come loose.

[Guest]

Is that just the picture or is the edge of your rotor ground down a bit?

[1980GS1000E]

Nope. This is what I saw when I removed the covers. Keep guessing. It's obvious.

[Nessism]

Missing engine bracket bolt.

[1980GS1000E]

Close. I had to remove the case savers to get the cover off. It is the missing countershaft sprocket nut. I don't even know how long it's been like this.

[Nessism]

Close. I had to remove the case savers to get the cover off. It is the missing countershaft sprocket nut. I don't even know how long it's been like this.

Wow! I look at the sprocket and missed it.

[Guest]

Wow! I look at the sprocket and missed it.

HOLY CRAP!!!! good one Ed. WHERE THE HECK IS THE BOLT!!!!